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A slow coolant loss can be in lots of places and may be harmless or may be bad news as racertracer knows and hints at. IMHO the first step (before looking for the worst internally although a quick oil dip stick check won't hurt), assuming you don't see fluid on the ground, is to go to your local parts store and obtain some UV coolant leak detector dye and a UV light (total cost $10-15) and a spray can of engine degreaser if your engine is dirty (take off the plastic engine cover and look at the top). Follow the degreaser instructions but under no circumstances use a high pressure spray of water as part of the process, rinse is the name of the game for water, as some folks who have used high pressure have produced electrical problems due to water in various connections. Once that's done add the UV dye, on a cool engine, to the plastic tank on the firewall and drive for several days or a total of like 50-100 miles or whatever interval it takes for you to see loss of coolant based on the level in the tank. Then use the UV light, you may have to do this inside a garage on under less than bright sunlight, to look for signs of a leak checking all hose fittings, thermostat gasket and temp sensor, radiator, the oil cooler on the passenger side, the hoses to and from the EGR on the back driver's side, under and around the plastic tank on the firewall, etc. I've seen leaks, totally undetectable but for UV, that were just tiny drips, evaporating as fast as they appeared, at factory hose spring clamps.
If that basic approach doesn't work you then you need to start looking for other things using other methods including leak down tests and checks for coolant in the oil.
PS turn your heater on full blast and see if the heated air smells odd or if the drip from the heater/AC drain, don't know exactly where this is on the CRD but it will be somewhere relatively low on the firewall on the passenger side, tastes sweet like antifreeze to see if your heater core is leaking.
Welcome to the forum, be sure to read Sam's NOOB guide and remember that you timing belt needs to be replaced at 100K miles even if you can only afford to do the belt which as a DIY project costs ca. $75 and 5-6hrs with tools you can rent from GDE or help from other members depending on your location. It's good to do all the other stuff related to a TB change but the belt is the most critical.
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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs
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