CRD still smoking on start up and I’m running out of ideas. My original problem was clouds of blue smoke and I mean clouds on a cold start up, which would not quite clear as the engine warmed up, also accompanied by excessive exhaust fumes.
I must admit I had let maintenance slip a bit, so following some great advice on here I set about doing the following:

Changed the oil and filter (about 9,000 miles since last change, I know).
Washed out the K&N filter, (which was in a mess shame on me).
New fuel filter.
Ran a can of Seafoam through the fuel filter.
Added injector cleaning fluid to the fuel.
Cleaned the MAP sensor.
Applied the ORM.
Checked the turbo hoses (seemed ok).

The result was a total reduction in the blue smoke and fumes on general running, but I still get a good bit of blue smoke on a cold start up which persists for about the first mile or so.
I also get a lot of light coloured smoke on a warm start, which clears after a relatively short drive.
The good news is once the engine is warm the exhaust runs clear and the engine runs sweet.
But still bothered by excessive smoke on start up, particularly the light coloured smoke when warm, I started to suspect the head gasket and water crossing into the combustion side.
Sorry I forgot to add that I am using a lot of coolant with no visible external leaks.
Well did a chemical test on the header tank this morning and came back with a negative result (phew!).
So no gases or coolant getting past the head gasket I’m now suspecting oil passing down the valve stems.
Don’t know if I’m just getting paranoid or if I have a determination to unbolt the head come what may.
Any other theories for me to lose sleep over would be greatly appreciated.

Phil

Phil on that coolant issue see what I just posted at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64758&p=714488#p714488

On the other topic. 1) did you pull the turbo hoses all the way off the vehicle and remove the mesh covering to inspect them (leaks are often small, hard to see, and on the bottom side of the hose - if the hose is nasty/oil soaked it's probably got leak even if you cannot see one). See also geordi's post on viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64777 . 2) have you glanced the base of where each injector fits into the head for leaking fuel (not uncommon and usually easy to fix with new "O" rings and copper crush washers).

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Hi Papiandigo
I will get some UV die and a test lamp to try and find this leak, I was at least very pleased to discount the head gasket following my chemical gas test.
No I didn't remove the turbo hoses fully to inspect them and yes they are covered in crud. Very interesting to read geordi's post on the oil pushing through the hose, my hoses must have been shot for a while cos I kept wondering where all the mess came from that was coating the hoses. Will also invest in a provent.
I just never considered looking for a diesel leak around the base of the injectors but will now do so.
My sincere thanks for your advice.

Phil

Phil,

From what I gather and as you may already know, bad rings will cause continuous blue smoke and you will have excessive blow by.

Not cleaning the air filter or changing the oil on time is a bad thing too, were you using non synthetic oil?

Bad injector o-rings can cause it too. They are cheap and I would swap them out first thing, there is a write up on how to go about doing this on the board.

Add another can of the sea foam in the fuel filter and after running the engine for a minute, let the solution sit in the injectors overnight and see if that doesn't help.

Since your maintenance schedule was not perfect, I would run a can of Rislone motor treatment in the oil to clean any unwanted buildup around the engine parts, rings etc.

Here is a quote from the company: "Rislone Engine Treatment gradually dissolves and removes harmful deposits of varnish, sludge and gum from the internal metal parts reducing friction and wear. Use any time at or between oil changes." I’ve used it before and it works.

http://www.barsproducts.com/100QR.htm

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Hi Racetracer
I have used 10w 40w semi synthetic oil, but I havent kept up the maintenace as well as I could have.
I will be pleased to take your advice on the Rislone engine treatment and possible injector O rings, another can of Seafoam cant hurt, the first one worked wonders. I very much appreciate your help.

Phil

The copious amounts of blue smoke on start-up sound like the engine is making an excessive amount of hydrocarbons when cold: this can either be due to glow plugs not working properly, or coked injector nozzles that aren't proving a proper spray pattern; either of these could be more probably if the engine has some noticable misfiring.
If the engine is running smooth but making blue smoke when very cold (first start of the morning) and then some white smoke when warmer, it could be from a partially sulfated catalyst, in which case you need to make some 10-15 long WOT accelerations (i.e. entering on to the motorway) in order to bring the catalyst inlet temps above +/- 500-550C to clean out the cat.

Is your vehicle older or newer than 2005MY?

Upon a cold startup when it is, in fact, cold out (below 40˚F), a cloud of white smoke is unburned fuel. This is fairly common, actually. Only solution is to use the block heater or other means to make/keep the engine warm. Some have suggested cycling the glow plugs twice, although I'm not convinced about that.

A cloud of blue smoke is likely engine oil. If you've been using semi-synthetic oil, that oil may be the source of the problem, especially if it is 9,000 miles old. Because of the turbo, only fully synthetic oil is recommended for this application. Additionally, I've never heard of a diesel rated 10w40 oil. 0w40, 5w40, and in non- or semi-synthetic oils, 15w40. If you were using an oil not rated for diesel service, this would be another possible cause of the blue smoke.

The primary reason for using either the 0w40 or 5w40 oils Jeep recommends, rather than a heavier oil, such as a 10w40 or 15w40, is the length of time needed for oil flow to reach the farthest reaches of the lubrication channels. Heavier oils leave those farthest reaches unlubricated longer, and since it is estimated that 80% of engine wear occurs at cold start up, one might expect such an engine to wear faster. Somewhere I saw a chart plotting the time it takes, and 0w40 was shown as taking about 5 seconds, while 15w40 takes over 30 seconds to fully lube on cold start.

Hi all
thanks again for your advice, just need to clarify a couple of points. The CRD is a 2.5 2004 model with 83,000 miles that I've owned from new, dealer serviced for the first four years.
Since then Ive done my own basic maintenance in changing oil and filters etc, the oil spec according to my hand book is for a semi synthetic grade 10w-40 suitable for turbo diesel engines operating between -10C and +35C. When buying oil the motor factors have always checked the grade against my cars registration number.
I can also rule out a problem with the cat clogging up as there is now just a straight pipe where the cat used to live.
Since changing the oils and filters and cleaning up the induction the smoke problem is almost under control, just waiting for a bottle of Rislone to arrive from accross the pond to help clean up the rings, lifters etc, also ordered new turbo hoses.
Once I get to the bottom of the invisible coolant leak I should be able to leave the bonnet shut for a while and just drive!