I noticed in the Sport when you go around turns you get a metallic knock from the rear of the jeep. I found the right rear hub has noticeable end play. What could be causing this, axle shaft retainer? Retainer at the hub?

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20 year owner of Libby CRD!
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

I'm anxious to see the answer to this. I also have end play as well. I get end play on both driver and passenger side. Doesn't seem normal, but hopefully a differential expert will be able to chime in.

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2006 Liberty CRD, 85,500 miles, ECO Tunes
Dark Khaki, Sport, Sunroof, Tow pkg
I added: EVIC, Cummins Fuel Pump, CAT Filter, Hour meter, heated seats
Michelin LTX2, Double Gauge Pod (Volt, Fuel Press)

It's a c-clip axle. There will always be a little in and out play. Your clunk is probaby ball joint related.

More then a little, and my other CRD does not clunk around turns, as well as any of the other 20 to 40 vehicles I have owned in my life?

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20 year owner of Libby CRD!
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Alternative to investigate: Upper control arm ball-joint & lower rear control arms.

I had a chain of events that took mine out @ about 130-140k miles.

I think what exacerbated the problem - pounding the rubber parts into failure, was a transmission shifting issue (hard shifts). This was eventually fixed but the damage had been done.

The rear axle has springs, and the primary means of keeping the axle from rotating - top of the pumpkin forward/back and u-joint up/down - are these control arms. Also, they prevent one side or the other from moving forward/back - which causes the jeep to torque steer with accel or decel torque.

They're easy to R&R, but not easy to visually diagnose while in-place. Easiest to check of the lower control arms is the driver's side, as the passenger side is blocked a little by the exhaust.

When lifting the jeep to do this service, place the jack under the rear axle to keep weight on the springs so that the torsion stabilizer has no torque on it when you remove the bolts. If you have a floor jack and stands it shouldn't take 15 minutes to get the LCA dropped for inspection.

Remove the wheel for the side of the car your're working on. Pull the lower shock bolt and move it aside, then pull the rearmost lower control arm bolt. There are two bolts holding a torsion bar to the top of the LCA, loosen them and swing the control arm down to inspect the rubber. If they're hammered it will be quite obvious...

The clunk you hear, if it's not the U-Joints, could well be caused by excessive play in those components.

Removing the upper control arm takes about the same time as either LCA. For the passenger side LCA I placed the floor jack under the muffler and then pushed with my foot (from pass side towards driver side) to get it far enough away to pull the upper/forward LCA bolt.

If you have transmission shifting issues - fix that underlying problem too.

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

I checked out the entire front end, and that right rear wheel makes the exact same sound jacked up and pushing in and out, as when you go around a sharp enough turn to make it have the same sound, the left rear wheel has no end play. I am looking how to fix the rear wheel problem, not other causes to look for. Where is TJKJ when you need him?

Thanks

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20 year owner of Libby CRD!
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

If you think it's the right rear wheel bearing: Check out the FSM at:

3 - 68 REAR AXLE - 8 1/4, page 133 of the 2005 PDF version of the manual.

Good luck,

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

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20 year owner of Libby CRD!
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Found the answer, http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/560372-post2.html

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20 year owner of Libby CRD!
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.