Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness-How To Measure?

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:06 am

In reading about coolant loss, head gasket replacement and the possibility of a cracked cylinder head, as a preventative step, I'm contemplating changing the head gasket and head bolts when I do my timing belt change. I'm already planning on removing the cylinder head cover to clean the collected soot in the intake.

According to thr '05 Parts Fiche, there are three (3) thicknesses of the head gasket--1.32mm; 1.42mm; 1.52mm.

Question: How does one determine the thickness of the head gasket that an engine will take short of disassembling the engine down to the head gasket?

In order to minimize down-time, I want to have all/as many as possible parts assembled prior to tackling this mongrel.

Thanks for your insight.

Hoosier CRD

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:16 am

As I understand it the thickness of the head gasket on any individual CRD engine is indicated by 1/2/3 holes punched in the edge of that gasket and as I recall few holes = thinner but I'm not positive. Which thickness is used depends on that needed to get proper piston/valve clearance. What I don't know is where those holes are located on the gasket and if they are visible without disassembling the engine.

I'd also wonder about the prudence of reusing the head bolts vs installing new ones vs replacing the bolts with studs (there has been some discussion of the latter on the forum but I don't recall any conclusive end to the discussion).

That said and pending further input, it's my impression that all cases of cylinder head problems (mostly warped) have been directly associated with coolant lose and/or overheating. Absent either of those symptoms I'm not sure gasket replacement is a good preventive maintenance step. Of course if you are pulling the head any way then I'd say go for it.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

A portion of the head gasket protrudes on the intake side of the engine. The exposed portion is just behind the intake elbow and will have 0,1 or 2 holes (thinnest is 0 holes). It is an ordeal to access and see.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Fri Feb 17, 2012 7:44 pm

Hey Papa and GDE (Keith?),

Thanks for the insight here. I will try to see that portion of the engine that you refer to for the holes. The dealer I spoke with this morning said that all three were in stock at the DC. BTW, from what I've been told, you can no longer buy just the head gasket by itself; you must now buy a head gasket kit. :furious:

I already have many of the gaskets I need before I do this job. If this holds true, then now I will still have them when I finish! :banghead:

Does anyone know how to get only the head gasket?

Finally, from what I understand, the head bolts are a one use only, torque-to-yield type. The "kit" referenced above has new head bolts included. I'm going to check into this torque-to-yield thing further. I will also look into the ARP option as I would prefer studs if they are available; the ARP website did not list anything but that does not mean that they aren't available.

Thanks again for the insight,

Hoosier CRD

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:48 pm

The parts fiche lists different part #'s for the "kit" and the gasket itself but MPA says the gasket-only part number is not found. So looks like it's kit-only.

Anyone know what the contents of the "kit" is? Fiche doesn't say. My dealer wants to order the kit and 18 head bolts for my new head so as far as they're concerned the head gasket kit does not contain bolts. Where did you hear that the bolts were included?

FWIW, MPA says the kit is $188.80 and the 18 head bolts are $83.88.

In the service manual is says you can re-use the bolts as long as they aren't "stretched" and say you can use a straight-edge to verify this. But reusing the bolts seem penny-wise and pound-foolish to me as you could blow the head gasket and/or warp/crack the head if the bolts let go. They're $4.50 each.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:17 pm

According to the Parts Manager at the dealer, the kit DOES includes the head bolts, eighteen (18) of them to be exact. Not exactly sure what else is included gasketwise though. Guessing that it will be the (proper thickness) head gasket and everything else gasket-oriented one is likely to encounter during a disassembly to that point in the engine. I asked the same question and his info did not go into further detail past the inclusion of the bolts.

I agree, not replacing the head bolts does not seem like a wise choice. The only reason that I am thinking about it myself is due to the concern about the head gasket integrity and being pretty much right there at it with a timing belt and cylinder head cover R&R. Literally, one will be touching the tops of the head bolts.

The bigger concern/question is this: Why is the coolant being lost in the first place? Is it the EGR cooler? Water pump seal failure? Are the head bolts losing integrity/clamping force? Something is causing these engines to lose coolant and overheat. The coolant lose is only the symptom.

Hoosier CRD

camo · **Posted:** Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:21 am

go to this website http://www.partswebsite.com/dcjpartsdep ... t=1&home=1 and put this part number 5072676AB which will be for the head gasket with 1 hole (1.42mm thickness). The gasket by itself is $89 and the kit which is noting but the gasket with the bolts is $186.
I hope you realize that putting the old gasket bolts back will risk a leak later.
If you want to place the order by phone ask for Tom, he is a very nice guy and I always order my stuff with him.
good luck.
:wink:

camo · **Posted:** Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:41 am

Before you take on a big job like that get the easy things out of the way. Check the EGR cooler and its hoses, check the oil cooler and hoses. have you replaced the thermostat at all before? there are member that have posted coolant leaks at the back bolts of the thermostat so they never see it because the coolant is evaporated by the exhaust manifold. anyway, before you pull the engine apart get an oil analysis done to determine if you have coolant in the oil, if so, then you proceed with the head gasket replacement.
Also. I forgot to mention that I have an extra set of head bolts that I did not used from a kit that I ordered when I had 2 CRDs. I'll let it go for 50 bucks.

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Sat Feb 18, 2012 1:42 am

Crap! Just ordered the gasket kit and bolts today from MPA. I sent them a note so hopefully they can cancel the bolts.

camo · **Posted:** Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:14 pm

LOL, that happens. let me know if you can stop them.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:23 am

X2 to camo's comments regarding the actual source of coolant leaks, if you have them. There are a host of places, including the invisible heater core, where coolant leaks can occur and either be visible or invisible. Before leaping straight to the conclusion that you have a head gasket problem it's best to invest all of $25 or so in some UV coolant dye and a UV light to check for leaks in ALL of the coolant lines. As to that heater core turn on the heat and sniff the air coming out for odd antifreeze type smell and if you can get to it check the heater box drain (should be on the firewall on passenger side and may only be accessible from underneath) for the sweet taste of antifreeze. For example those horrible nasty vile OEM hose spring clamps are well known to lose tension over time, even if never removed, and produce minor drips that are invisible due to coolant/engine heat.

Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness-How To Measure?

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