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Awesome red05crd, it got more power? Is yours a 05?
Could I bring it to the dealer and ask them to reflash it, although there is nothing wrong with it?
Also, if I have issues with it, does any Jeep/Chrysler dealer handel the warranty issue or only the dealer I bought it from?

Daniel

Hmmm, perhaps I should check mine. Last two days when I've shifted from reverse to forward starting off, I've gotten a pretty good lurch and a loud WHAM coming from the rear end. I had it chalked up to the trans cooler return filter, thinking I finally had a reason to get the dealership to perform that TSB. But after seeing this, guess I'd better be checking my diffs as well. I don't have trac-lok, just the standard diffs.

Also did a similar trick the other night, except I didn't shift from reverse to forward. Pulled up to a stoplight and was stopped for 2 or 3 minutes. Light turned green, engine revved for a second or two, then WHAM, like it finally managed to catch gear and lurched forward. Rather loud and a hard lurch, like someone had just rear-ended me.

Mine was bad right away. Selling dealership says they all weep. After enough had been thrown out, I went back and now they agreed with me. Mine has the 12.5K miles differential service requirement and it is trak-loc and towing package. At 12.5k, I did my own dif's front and rear. What I found in the rear was a milky brown dirty grease emulsion. The rear dif was not machined smooth on the bottom half only the top half with the old orange assembly material on it. I used an old machinist's brass brush to clean it off. Used the new grey rtv from dc, then two bottles of the new thin clutch lube(per jeep training info) and synthetic dc grease. I suspect that my Jan 05 build had some old rear installed before I got it, because I also had the "e-brake shoes grinding"? with no wearing of the rear pads against the rotors for these first 2k miles.

The muffler banging noise at idle was not the hangers in my case, it's the way the muffler section was installed. The muffler section has to be held up just right and the prevention of muffler banging the frame is accomplished by a unique amount of tightening of the two flange nuts. I fixed mine myself but it doesn't matter now because I saw retmil46's post and my better half and I got an aero-turbine for Christmas.

Glad to hear you can enjoy a good jeep in the open country.

Looks like a double header at the dealership, tranny TSB and rear pinion seal.

Quote:

Looks like a double header at the dealership, tranny TSB and rear pinion seal.

Whats the Tranny TSB?

Author:	red05crd [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 10:34 am ]
Post subject:	CRD IN SHOP
New here. just had my crd fixed. 15,000 miles on it now. I was looking under my liberty and noticed a bunch of oil sprayed all over from a leaking rear pinion seal. They also reflashed the computer. (a friend of mine is a new car mechanic at a jeep dealership he told me that they had a reflash that seemed to give crd's more power) Well there seems to be a lot more power, the turbo lag seems gone completely and it gets to 80 in a real hurry. The exhaust also had a vibration (especially at idle) so he said he ordered all new hangers. I don't know if this is going to temporarily fix the problem or if the hangers are different. So far we average about 25 mpg with our crd (montana has open freeway with hardly any traffic). But on one trip we went to billings mt. then came back through yellowstone park and our display read 30 miles per gallon. That is incredible considering it's an suv. My wife says it's because 55 miles is a 45 mph zone. We got 630 miles that tank (on the trip computer). Well good to be here. Thanks and Hello!

Author:	tired_old_dave [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:02 pm ]
Post subject:
Mine was bad right away. Selling dealership says they all weep. After enough had been thrown out, I went back and now they agreed with me. Mine has the 12.5K miles differential service requirement and it is trak-loc and towing package. At 12.5k, I did my own dif's front and rear. What I found in the rear was a milky brown dirty grease emulsion. The rear dif was not machined smooth on the bottom half only the top half with the old orange assembly material on it. I used an old machinist's brass brush to clean it off. Used the new grey rtv from dc, then two bottles of the new thin clutch lube(per jeep training info) and synthetic dc grease. I suspect that my Jan 05 build had some old rear installed before I got it, because I also had the "e-brake shoes grinding"? with no wearing of the rear pads against the rotors for these first 2k miles. The muffler banging noise at idle was not the hangers in my case, it's the way the muffler section was installed. The muffler section has to be held up just right and the prevention of muffler banging the frame is accomplished by a unique amount of tightening of the two flange nuts. I fixed mine myself but it doesn't matter now because I saw retmil46's post and my better half and I got an aero-turbine for Christmas. Glad to hear you can enjoy a good jeep in the open country.

Author:	Endurance [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:15 pm ]
Post subject:
Awesome red05crd, it got more power? Is yours a 05? Could I bring it to the dealer and ask them to reflash it, although there is nothing wrong with it? Also, if I have issues with it, does any Jeep/Chrysler dealer handel the warranty issue or only the dealer I bought it from? Daniel

Author:	oldnavy [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:27 pm ]
Post subject:
Endurance wrote: Awesome red05crd, it got more power? Is yours a 05? Could I bring it to the dealer and ask them to reflash it, although there is nothing wrong with it? Also, if I have issues with it, does any Jeep/Chrysler dealer handel the warranty issue or only the dealer I bought it from? Daniel Any Jeep dealer will handle warranty problems. Hey on slow days they jump for warranty work here.

Author:	Endurance [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 7:45 pm ]
Post subject:
Is reflashing/updating the computer free?

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Author:	n3qik [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 8:20 pm ]
Post subject:
Unless you have a problem, dealer will not do a flash. Here in Pa. it is illeagle to do it without a reason.

Author:	retmil46 [ Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:15 am ]
Post subject:
Hmmm, perhaps I should check mine. Last two days when I've shifted from reverse to forward starting off, I've gotten a pretty good lurch and a loud WHAM coming from the rear end. I had it chalked up to the trans cooler return filter, thinking I finally had a reason to get the dealership to perform that TSB. But after seeing this, guess I'd better be checking my diffs as well. I don't have trac-lok, just the standard diffs. Also did a similar trick the other night, except I didn't shift from reverse to forward. Pulled up to a stoplight and was stopped for 2 or 3 minutes. Light turned green, engine revved for a second or two, then WHAM, like it finally managed to catch gear and lurched forward. Rather loud and a hard lurch, like someone had just rear-ended me.

Author:	pipefactory [ Sat Mar 11, 2006 9:35 am ]
Post subject:
retmil46 wrote: Hmmm, perhaps I should check mine. Last two days when I've shifted from reverse to forward starting off, I've gotten a pretty good lurch and a loud WHAM coming from the rear end. I had it chalked up to the trans cooler return filter, thinking I finally had a reason to get the dealership to perform that TSB. But after seeing this, guess I'd better be checking my diffs as well. I don't have trac-lok, just the standard diffs. Also did a similar trick the other night, except I didn't shift from reverse to forward. Pulled up to a stoplight and was stopped for 2 or 3 minutes. Light turned green, engine revved for a second or two, then WHAM, like it finally managed to catch gear and lurched forward. Rather loud and a hard lurch, like someone had just rear-ended me. Mine was doing that when it was cold and the dealership put in an updated trans filter that is supposed to have some sort of check valve in it. They said it was to keep the fluid from draining back.

Author:	red05crd [ Sun Mar 12, 2006 10:50 am ]
Post subject:	endurance reply
The only reason my friend reflashed my computer was I had told him that a fellow told me his stock computer was retuned for more power down in Idaho. I then asked my friend if he could tune mine. That's when he told me about the reflash that seemed to give them more power. On a darker note I'm not so sure my fuel economy is as good as before I took it in. That could be beacuse I am enjoying the power a little too much. I'll let you know how the fuel economy is doing later this year when the cold weather is gone and I'm not idling it for so long to warm up and the fun of the retune wears off. Take care E

Author:	retmil46 [ Sun Mar 12, 2006 9:28 pm ]
Post subject:
tired_old_dave wrote: Mine was bad right away. Selling dealership says they all weep. After enough had been thrown out, I went back and now they agreed with me. Mine has the 12.5K miles differential service requirement and it is trak-loc and towing package. At 12.5k, I did my own dif's front and rear. What I found in the rear was a milky brown dirty grease emulsion. The rear dif was not machined smooth on the bottom half only the top half with the old orange assembly material on it. I used an old machinist's brass brush to clean it off. Used the new grey rtv from dc, then two bottles of the new thin clutch lube(per jeep training info) and synthetic dc grease. I suspect that my Jan 05 build had some old rear installed before I got it, because I also had the "e-brake shoes grinding"? with no wearing of the rear pads against the rotors for these first 2k miles. The muffler banging noise at idle was not the hangers in my case, it's the way the muffler section was installed. The muffler section has to be held up just right and the prevention of muffler banging the frame is accomplished by a unique amount of tightening of the two flange nuts. I fixed mine myself but it doesn't matter now because I saw retmil46's post and my better half and I got an aero-turbine for Christmas. Glad to hear you can enjoy a good jeep in the open country. Well, dave, you just paid back the favor. I read about your leaking pinion seals and checked mine. Sure enough, pinion seal on the rear diff has started slinging oil sometime recently. Pulled the plug and checked level, still pretty close to 1/2" below the hole, looks like I caught it just as it was getting started. Looks like a double header at the dealership, tranny TSB and rear pinion seal.

Author:	Taz [ Sun Mar 12, 2006 10:29 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Looks like a double header at the dealership, tranny TSB and rear pinion seal. Whats the Tranny TSB?

Author:	grywlfbg [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 2:59 pm ]
Post subject:
Taz wrote: Quote: Looks like a double header at the dealership, tranny TSB and rear pinion seal. Whats the Tranny TSB? Do a search for "tranny shudder" there are several topics on this.

Author:	oldnavy [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:34 pm ]
Post subject:
NUMBER: 21-016-05 GROUP: Transmission DATE: September 01, 2005 THIS BULLETIN IS BEING PROVIDED IN ADVANCE. DO NOT ORDER PARTS OR PERFORM ANY ACTIONS RELATED TO THIS BULLETIN UNTIL SEPTEMBER 09, 2005. SUBJECT: RFE Transmission - Delayed Engagement After An Extended Off Period OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves verifying the build date of the transmission, and if necessary, replacement of the transmission cooler return filter inside the transmission. MODELS: 2005 - 2006 (DR) Ram Truck 2005 - 2006 (HB) Durango 2005 - 2006 (KJ) Liberty / Cherokee 2005 - 2006 (ND) Dakota 2005 - 2006 (WK / WH) Grand Cherokee 2006 (XK) Commander NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with the a 45RFE or a 545RFE automatic transmission (sales code DG4 or DGQ respectively). SYMPTOM/CONDITION: The customer may experience an initial delayed shift engagement following an extended off (not running) period of time, generally after being parked overnight. The initial shift engagement may feel like a delay or slip when a transmission gear (reverse or drive) is first selected after engine start. The customer may also experience a MIL illumination. Investigation may determine that the MIL is due to one or more of the following Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's): P0868 - Line Pressure Low. This DTC will be the most frequently occurring DTC for the delayed shift condition. P0731 - Gear Ratio Error In 1st. P0736 - Gear Ratio Error In Reverse. P0841 - LR Pressure Switch Rationality. NUMBER: 21-016-05 GROUP: Transmission DATE: September 01, 2005 P0876 - UD Pressure Switch Rationality. P0944 - Loss Of Hydraulic Pump Prime. The condition may be caused by a suspect cooler return filter with a part number of 04799662AB. The suspect cooler return filter may allow transmission fluid to drain back out of the torque converter when the engine is not running. DIAGNOSIS: 1. Turn the ignition to the "OFF" position. 2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable lift. Fig. 1 TRANS IDENTIFICATION NUMBER 1 - TRANSMISSION IDENTIFICATION (SERIAL AND PART) NUMBER - 20 DIGIT 3. Inspect for the transmission build date (Julian date) (Fig. 1). The transmission build date can be determined by inspection of the 20 digit transmission identification number (DDDYxxxxxPpartnumber). The transmission identification number is stamped on the left side (driver side) of the transmission oil pan flange. The first four (4) digits of the transmission identification number are the transmission build date, in Julian date format. An example of a transmission identification number would be : 101510492P52119684AA. The first three digits ( 101 ) of the identification number equal the day of the year, in this case 101 equals April 11. The fourth digit ( 5 ) of the identification number equals the calendar year, in this case 5 equals 2005. So 1015 equals April 11, 2005. 4. Determine if the vehicle's transmission was built on or between one of the two sets of Julian date build ranges listed below: a. Julian date 0425 (February 11, 2005) to Julian date 0455 (February 15, 2005). 0425 to 0455. b. Julian date 1015 (April 11, 2005) to Julian date 2345 (August 22, 2005). 1015 to 2345. 21-016-05 -2- 5. If the vehicle has the above condition, and if the transmission Julian build date is on or between the range of dates listed above, perform the Repair Procedure. PARTS REQUIRED: NOTE: The correct cooler return filter will not be available until September 09, 2005. Qty. Part No. Description 1 04799662 Filter, Cooler Return 4 05013457AA Fluid, Automatic Transmission, MS-9602 ATF+4, Quart 1 05010884AA Mopar ATF-RTV NOTE: DO NOT use a replacement cooler return filter with a part number of 04799662AB. This filter is suspect of causing the above condition. The filter part number is stenciled on the side of the filter case. SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: 8321 Oil Filter Wrench REPAIR PROCEDURE: Fig. 2 Transmission Filters - 4X4 Shown 1 - PRIMARY OIL FILTER 2 - COOLER RETURN FILTER 3 - COOLER RETURN FILTER BYPASS VALVE 4 - VALVE BODY -3- 21-016-05 NOTE: All cooler return filters with the "AB" suffix (04799662AB) are suspect. The above condition may be corrected by replacing a suspect "AB" filter with a new cooler return filter whose part number is 04799662 (with no suffix or with a suffix that is other than the "AB" level). NOTE: A replacement 04799662 cooler return filter may come packaged with a separate threaded adapter stud. The threaded adapter stud is used to attach the cooler return filter to the transmission. Inspect the stud and note end without threads. Install the stud end without the threads into the cooler return filter and tighten the stud-to-filter connection to 18.6 Nm (165 in. lbs.). Once the threaded adapter stud has been installed to the cooler return filter, install the assembled cooler return filter to the transmission and tighten the filter to 14.1 Nm (125 in. lbs.) Use the procedures outlined in TechCONNECT® ( Service Information Tab / 21 - Transmission Transaxle / Automatic - 45RFE 545RFE / Fluid / Standard Procedure / Fluid and Filter Replacement) to replace the cooler return filter. POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. TIME ALLOWANCE: Labor Operation No: Description Amount 21-55-02-90 Filter, Cooler Return - Replace 0.6 Hrs. 21-55-02-60 Optional Equipment: Skid Plate Equipped (2005-2006 KJ / 2005 ND / 2005-2006 WK WH) 0.2 Hrs. FAILURE CODE: P8 New Part

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