I am having what I believe is an EGR issue. After listening to the noise, my mechanic says I need an new EGR cooler. One was ordered from the dealer but what they delivered for roughly $200 was the cooler housing. The cooler would cost me approx. $800. I am not confident that the cooler is the issue or maybe it's just that I'm in denial about having to spend $800 for this part.
The are no DBL. Only a noise when you start to turn the key and the noise goes away about a minute after you turn off the CRD.
Please help. I had even heard that maybe I don't need the EGR assembly at all????

Hi and welcome to the site!

Many different noises can be heard at start-up and shutdown. When shutting down, there will be a buzzing on the driver side. That would be the FCV (Flow Control Valve) and it last for about 10 sec.

All of this is normal and I am starting to have that fuzzy feeling your mechanic is leading you down the primrose path (the one with insanely high toll $$$). First off, do you have a CEL and codes pointing to the EGR?

I suggest you take some time, if not done already, to review Sir Sam's noob guide. This will help you get a ballpark figure on the known issues with the CRD, recommended fixes and repair tips, amongst other things.

BTW, there are alternatives to the annoying EGR: SEGR (electronic board designed to fool the engine computer in believing all is well with EGR, even though it is being disabled by said SEGR) and GDE tune (which I recommend greatly to improve general drivability and performance of the CRD Liberty)

Hope this helps!

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RIP 10/31/2012
Green Metallic 2006 CRD Limited
GDE Hot tune ~ Pre-F37 TCM ~ Transgo shift kit ~ MagnaFlow ~ Homemade Provent ~ OME 2" lift & Airlift ~ Samco ~ Euro TC ~ Lift pump ~ Nylon fan blade & Hayden clutch ~ Etc!

There are no dashboard indications. It's only the noise you hear when starting and stopping the Jeep. I will take a look at Sir Sam's post. Been looking at prices online and if it is the cooler, then at least I've managed to find one for less than $700. If it's the valve then it's less than $300.

But with all of the lift issues we're having, the cost and frustration on this beast keeps going higher and higher.

Sounds like the FCV valve motor plastic gears may be going or gone. Unplug the electronic connection to the FCV and see if the noise goes away. If it does pull the intercooler>engine hose and remove the FCV butterfly so it can never jam closed and leave the somewhat useless thing unplugged. Yes I know now folks will jump in with the run away engine or rough shut down debate so have at it. If it is the FCV and one is worried it can be replaced.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

You do not need an EGR anything. What you have is a failed FCV. For information about what it does, (and doesn't) do... Look at this thread and my posts:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=722931#p722931

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Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

x2 papadingo. Plus when you unplug the FCV and drive it a bit you should be able to see a check engine light, if you don't see it then probably your check engine is bad (on my first CRD it had been busted by the past owner to avoid seeing it anymore). If the check engine light case is true you might want to get it fix or get the codes read at an autozone which will be a better start to figure out your problem.
In my opinion... your mechanic is just speculating with your money.
good luck.

Does anyone have a picture of what the FCV us where I disconnect the hose to look at the butterfly?

Try this: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64557&start=39

Bottom pic is the FCV.. driver's side, mid-engine, behind and slightly below the alternator. It's the thing the CAC hose leaving the inter-cooler connects to on that side (right, when facing into the engine compartment).

It's the thing between the yellow (1) and the red (2).

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban