We seem to be having the symptoms, intermittantly on startup, of the trans filter drainback valve sticking. We have OEM filters in place. Has anyone simply replaced the filters with OEM and had the problem go away?

Thanks,

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

I'll let you know. The filters on ours were replaced on Wednesday. Previously, we'd been experiencing the problems:

->e.g. frequent delays going into gear at startup, esp when cold

->the occasional CEL if I didn't let it idle long enough before attempting to put it in drive and accelerate (after cold start)

->the occasional event where, when idling the transmission felt like the torque converter locked up and it became a manual transmission with no clutch...

The transmission shop did a reset and quick learn, along with replacing the filters and fluid.

Seem Ok so far - but one day in a row is too early to tell. Keep you posted.

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Mark, that is a lot more than just the drain back problem... You sure your trans had the right fluid before? The stalling when cold sounds about right, the manual-no-clutch... That's new to me, and I'm well familiar with the trans glitches.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Well - I'm pretty sure it's got the right fluid now. 'Bob' (really) and I talked about that when I brought the rig in. I found a them (a well-rated/reviewed shop) on Angie's list and have been using them lately.

As for what was in there - I'd had the fluid flushed/changed some time ago at one of the fast oil-change places; it's possible they threw junk in there and started some of this..

That won't happen again.

The manual-no-clutch was someone else's description I'd read around here recently - I'd thought I was the only one. Now I think it's a quirk of our 545RFEs under certain circumstances. Don't know if it is drain back, poor ATF fluids, advancing age & wear, electrical glitches, or what. Whatever it is, I'll be glad if it stays away.

If we see a pattern with the other CRDs it would be nice to pin down the root cause and best fix.

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

have you tried the FLCV mod? that seems to work pretty well.

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05' CRD Sport
GDE Eco Tune
Provent
Samco Hoses
Carter Lift Pump

X2 on the fluid, I have 2 Jeeps that even with my check valve mod would do the following, poor initial engagement and locking up and stalling the engine. I had Amsoil ATF and Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx in both of them. The ATF+4 is what fixed it for me.

Mine were both never right after I did a fluid change with Amsoil.

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20 year owner of Libby CRD!
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

This is interesting information about the Amsoil transmission fluid, I read somewhere recently about another brand having major problems and saying that you cannot use amsoil in their transmissions. Since I have been reading a lot more recently about VW diesels again, I wonder if it was theirs.

Either way, transmissions are somewhat magic to me. I know power goes in and lots more comes out, and the very basic theory of operation... But that is it. So in that respect, I am quite happy to stick with ATF+4 in a full synthetic (usually Castrol from the parts place) and if a bottle of Lucas keeps it slimy enough that I don't have the drainback problem... Well, I have never had a problem with engine or transmission or power steering while using Lucas. The stuff is thick bear snot, but it works great.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Any update? I've had the above happen once recently. I've only had the Jeep running for about 800 miles so I'm not sure of the fluid type.

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Resurrected 2005 Liberty Sport CRD
Canadian DRL mod

CRD Motor/Timing Pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/68442076@N02/sets/72157629389449367/

Still working flawlessly - my daughter's been daily driving it 30+ miles (one way) to work in Portland. Been what, several weeks now?

All while I'm doing the timing belt, pump, idler, belts, hoses, and putting a collar in to repair a stripped oil-pan threads in an aluminum oil pan.. on her Dodge.

She gets it back tomorrow - and I get the little tractor!

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

If you "think" you have the drainback problem there is sure diagnosis and temporary (been working for me for 18Kmiles) fix. When you first crank up the vehicle after it has been sitting for over 4-8 hours (drainback seems to take overnight or a full workday) immediately shift to Neutral, of course with your foot on the brake, and run the idle up to 1,500rpm for ca. 15-30 seconds, drop to idle, shift into gear and drive off. If the problem never reappears you have found the cause.

It's important to do this in neutral not park as the 545RFE either does not pump or does not pump much fluid in park. Don't ask me, that's what I've found and the FSM does mention different pumping rates.

Oddly the problem appears to be most apparent in drive not reverse. On occasion when I forget to do the drill I've backed out of the driveway and shifted into drive at which point there is no feel that the tranny has engaged and the vehicle won't move. If that happens IMMEDIATELY shift into neutral and run the above drill; again you have found the cause. I say immediately because if you try to gun the engine and drive off you will experience sluggish gear engagement, go about 100', likely suffer a really spectacular engine stall after which everything runs fine except 50% of the time there will be a CEL that takes about 5 good crank/drive cycles to clear.

Yes I know I should get the tranny serviced to fix this but the above trick works fine and I've been holding off for a 50K tranny service or new torque convertor whichever comes first. Looks like TC wins.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs