I was wondering if anyone has had a similar experience. I went out this morning and proceeded to start the jeep, however, it seemed like it was just about to start when everything went dead. No electrical at all. No headlights, horn, door locks , not even a click from the ignition switch. I just installed a new battery last month.
I checked the voltage of the battery and it is 12.65. Checked all the fuses in the distribution box under the hood. Everything was O.K. Checked power at the distribution box and I have it there.
Any ideas? Fuseable link? Possibly the body control module?
I would appreciate any help Thanks!!

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
2011 BMW 335d
1988 Mustang LX Hatch, Drag radial class

Often, it is one of several related things if all goes dark when the big surge of current (starter) hits:

1) corrosion at the connectors
2) loose battery cables (at either end) - including ground
3) hidden corrosion in the cable and under the insulation
4) internal fault in the battery itself.

Clean and inspect the connectors and cables - see if the moving around can at least get you dome lights - then go from there.

The internal thing happens, and you just have to swap in a new battery - if it won't sustain current.

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Didn't some of these Jeeps come with an anti theft device - chip in the key fob? Seems to me I recall reading about some people being stranded. Jeep would turn over or start and then just go dead. Its been a long time since I read this, sorry I cant be any more help.

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2005 CRD Midnight Blue
GDE Tune
Moog Ball Joints
No Exhaust Brake

Winter Diesel Summer Diesel

1-800-PIK-A-BIZ
Everyone's toll free number and then some

In the Dodge Ram trucks if you trigger the anti-theft, it starts, runs a few seconds, then shuts off.

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

If when you turn the ignition ON nothing comes on at all it is possible that the ignition switch actuator link that goes from the key barrel to the ignition switch itself has broken. This is quite a common problem and there are some examples on this CRD forum of it happening. Do you feel spring resistance on the ignition key when you turn it to START?....the return spring is in the switch itself so you should feel resistance.

Check your battery terminals are clean and tight and the earth strap from the battery is clean and tight at the chassis point. Also check the strap that ground the engine to chassis is clean and tight.

Try jump starting with a good battery.

The fusable link, if present, goes from the alternator to the battery so you would have no charging of the battery if that blew.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

As I understand it absolutely nothing has power or to put it another way when you open the door the dome lights don't come on, the odometer doesn't light up, when you flick the high/low beam switch the lights don't flash and when you try the key nothing happens at all. Correct? If so I'm not much on modern vehicle electrics but:
1. if it was the ignition actuator pin or ignition switch (see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61233&p=678574&hilit=+brother#p678574 ) the stuff that comes on when the door is opened and the high/low switch should work.
2. if those things do work but you have no start I'd do the checks in the listed post.
3. if they don't work at all then there is zero power to a bunch of the vehicle systems. I'm not sure there is a fusable link or another link that would kill all vehicle power although a bad cable or bad corrosion could do it. It might be worth checking the several interior fuses that relate to the BCM, SKIM. However, before checking fuses and recognizing you have a new battery I'd try dropping in (not jumping) another known good battery as it's possible the new battery has an internal short which will NOT show up via a simple voltage check. I had a short between battery cells decades ago on a brand new 5y battery and current showed but absolutely nothing comes on (no lights no radio no click); wait a random period of time and everything is fine until... Problem would be even worse on today's computerized vehicles.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Sorry, just blundered into this thread that I had somehow missed.

x2 of what Papaindigo said.

If there aren't ANY lights when you open the doors (headlights are computer controlled, for reasons that escape me) then your problem is directly related to the battery and how it connects to the vehicle.

I have seen grounding strap wires "look" ok on the outside, but inside the black rubber, the copper is corroded through completely. Any kind of bad grounding like that will increase the amperage needed to start the vehicle, but I don't think that is your problem in this case.

IF there are no interior lights when you open the doors, I would strongly suspect a blown cell inside that battery. This isn't something that you can predict, I've had it happen on an almost-new battery too, and also on one that was in service for 24+ months, and just up-and-died one day like it sounds like yours did.

If the lights inside are dim - Still look at the battery. Swapping in another battery will help diagnose this quickly for you. If the lights inside look normal... THEN it is time to look at the ignition switch, which has been a problem in the past for some people.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Feel really stupid about this one. Problem was the negative cable to the battery was loose. Retightened cable to battery post and fixed the problem. Thanks guy's for all your suggestions.

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
2011 BMW 335d
1988 Mustang LX Hatch, Drag radial class

Glad it was something simple. It's the simple stuff that can confound us the most, even the best techs miss the easy trick once in a while. At least you didn't tear apart your column for it!

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I'm also glad it was something simple like that. Give yourself the Dope Slap on the forehead and happy Jeepin'.