Help deciding between a 2005 or 2006 CRD

altdiesel · **Posted:** Fri Apr 20, 2012 12:27 am

I have a good problem to have. In a close area around where I live, I have two 4WD sport package CRD's I am interested in buying from private sellers. one is a 2005 with 70k miles for $14,500 (more on the price in a moment). The other is a 2006 with 76,000 miles for $13,900.

So, assuming that both are well taken care of, which year is better? I know that the 05 does not have traction control, whereas the 06 does, and from what I have read, bigger breaks as well.

The 05 on Jan 10, 2012, had a Chrysler re-manufactured engine installed, out of warranty, costing the guy with receipts from the dealer about $12,000. No idea who in their right mind would spend that kind of money at a dealer, but he did. So, it still has a 3 yr, 100,000 mile warranty on engine components. However, since the timing belt is a wear item, it is only covered for 12 months, or 12,000 miles. If the timing belt were to go, it would void the engine warranty, assuming it would cause catastrophic damage to the interference engine. The 05 also has new injectors as of Jan, and has new glow plugs, ball joints, and steering rack.

My diesel mechanic told me I would be crazy to pay over blue book for either, I am basing my prices off of NADA. His reasoning is if you put in $100,000 dollars into a $5,000 dollar run of the mill car, it is still a $5,000 dollar car at the end of the day.

So, which one should I buy? Also, I know the service specs call for the timing belt to be done at 100,000 miles. Is this something that really should be replaced sooner, just to know that it won't go and have the engine blow up?

Both Liberty's have all maintenance records, and I believe both had the EGR and the TC F37 flash done already. Actually, now that I think of it, the 2006 has not had the F37 flash yet, as far as the guy knew, anyway.

Thanks for your opinions, I really need help deciding.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:41 am

The 05 may or may not have a TracLok rear end as that was an option. The 06 will never have TracLok as it's incompatable with the ESP system that all 06 models have. Some love the ESP and some find it "helps" too much on twisty roads and don't like it. The 05 has a single speed sensor for both rear brakes while the 06 has one for each. Frankly I don't see much substantive difference between the 2 years (I have an 05 and my son has an 06). Brake size is the same at least the parts list has the same parts numbers for both years.

The timing belt change interval is 100K miles and I'd assume (you need to confirm this) that the 2012 new engine came with a new timing belt so the mileage count starts there. That said 2 thoughts: 1) something sounds a bit off with the 05 or maybe it's my suspicious nature but why is this person selling for $14.5k after putting $12k in the vehicle just 3 months ago that just sounds off enough that I'd want to circle back to the dealer and confirm that the work was done (I know this sounds really paranoid but I can create some really good fake dealer receipts) which leads to 2) you need to confirm with the dealer that the engine warranty is transferrable and how to transfer it, get that information in writing and make the sale completion contingent on the warranty actually being transferred to you and make sure the transfer is in writing. Paranoid I know but we have had folks burned on faulty warranty transfers. Late thought - the parts guys at a DC dealer can usually print out a report on a vehicle based on the VIN that should show all the work done on it by any DC dealer.

Assuming the 05 info is legit and you can get it for a good price I'd lean toward it based on the work done to date. From what I've seen a reasonable price for a CRD, either year, with ca. 75k miles on the engine is on the order of $11.5-$13.5 depending on condition and what extras are on the vehicle.

As for F-37 you can check for outstanding recallls using the VIN number on the section of the Jeep website for owners. The full F-37 to the best of my knowledge included a replacement torque convertor for all early 05s with the really early TC with the plastic part (don't worry about this if this 05 had that TC originally it would long since died and been replaced); a replacement TC if the 2n gen OEM TC had problems (uncommon but not unknown - no the Euro TC was not part of this) AND a ECU/TCM detune to reduce TC failures (don't ask me why a detune rather than a decent TC replacement). It's not uncommon to find a CRD that has had the F-37 but for whatever reason the detune was not done. The easy check is to drive the vehicle until it's a bit warmed up (tranny won't shift into higher gear until the fluid is warm enough) then on an open road slowly run the speed up to 65mph; if the last shift point is ca. 58mph the detune has not been done but if it's at ca. 62mph the detune has been done.

I'd also suggest you read Sir Sam's NOOB guide.

altdiesel · **Posted:** Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:06 pm

papaindigo wrote:

The 05 may or may not have a TracLok rear end as that was an option. The 06 will never have TracLok as it's incompatable with the ESP system that all 06 models have. Some love the ESP and some find it "helps" too much on twisty roads and don't like it. The 05 has a single speed sensor for both rear brakes while the 06 has one for each. Frankly I don't see much substantive difference between the 2 years (I have an 05 and my son has an 06). Brake size is the same at least the parts list has the same parts numbers for both years.

The timing belt change interval is 100K miles and I'd assume (you need to confirm this) that the 2012 new engine came with a new timing belt so the mileage count starts there. That said 2 thoughts: 1) something sounds a bit off with the 05 or maybe it's my suspicious nature but why is this person selling for $14.5k after putting $12k in the vehicle just 3 months ago that just sounds off enough that I'd want to circle back to the dealer and confirm that the work was done (I know this sounds really paranoid but I can create some really good fake dealer receipts) which leads to 2) you need to confirm with the dealer that the engine warranty is transferrable and how to transfer it, get that information in writing and make the sale completion contingent on the warranty actually being transferred to you and make sure the transfer is in writing. Paranoid I know but we have had folks burned on faulty warranty transfers. Late thought - the parts guys at a DC dealer can usually print out a report on a vehicle based on the VIN that should show all the work done on it by any DC dealer.

Assuming the 05 info is legit and you can get it for a good price I'd lean toward it based on the work done to date. From what I've seen a reasonable price for a CRD, either year, with ca. 75k miles on the engine is on the order of $11.5-$13.5 depending on condition and what extras are on the vehicle.

As for F-37 you can check for outstanding recallls using the VIN number on the section of the Jeep website for owners. The full F-37 to the best of my knowledge included a replacement torque convertor for all early 05s with the really early TC with the plastic part (don't worry about this if this 05 had that TC originally it would long since died and been replaced); a replacement TC if the 2n gen OEM TC had problems (uncommon but not unknown - no the Euro TC was not part of this) AND a ECU/TCM detune to reduce TC failures (don't ask me why a detune rather than a decent TC replacement). It's not uncommon to find a CRD that has had the F-37 but for whatever reason the detune was not done. The easy check is to drive the vehicle until it's a bit warmed up (tranny won't shift into higher gear until the fluid is warm enough) then on an open road slowly run the speed up to 65mph; if the last shift point is ca. 58mph the detune has not been done but if it's at ca. 62mph the detune has been done.

I'd also suggest you read Sir Sam's NOOB guide.

I have been as paranoid as you as well. I have read Sir Sam's noob guide. The 05 does in fact have all of the service records, however, the timing belt was not done when the long block was installed. I called the dealer and they have all the records, and confirmed the work done. The timing belt was opted to be re-used since it had not cracking and was clean. Very dumb, let me tell you. However, the 3 yr, 100k mile warranty from Chrysler only covers the long block, and lubricated parts that were bolted to it when it came in the crate. All bolt on items, like the water pump, or timing belt, would not be covered anyway. Those parts are only covered for 12mo. 12k miles. The 05 did have the ball joints done, as well as the rack and pinion. They guy selling it wanted to do it all right the first time, and is a farmer/ agriculture guy. He told me he never skimps out and I can tell by looking at the dealer invoices. I never would have spent more on parts than the jeep is worth, however, he did, and he knows it. Two injectors were replaced, as well as all of the glow plugs, updated to the stainless steel, away from the ceramic.

The 2006 I am looking at has about 80k miles, and they guy wants about $12K. I am leaning toward the cheaper newer one, since I am going to buy an extended warranty anyway, that will cover the timing belt, engine parts, if I take care of the belt at 100,000 miles. Oh, and I hate being upside down in my vehicle since I am going to finance it anyway. So, what do you think?

Here is the build specs I requested on the 05 from Jeep;

Sales Code Description
*N5 Cloth High-Back Bucket Seats
-D5 Med Slate Gray
AHMP Convenience Group I
AHT Trailer Tow Group
AJPS Power Convenience Group
APAS Monotone Paint
A46P 2.8LTD Eng(ENR)/5Spd A/T 545RFE(DGQ)
BAZS 136 Amp Alternator
BCVP 700 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BRYP Anti-Lock 4-Wheel Disc Brakes
CF5S 2nd Row Buckets, Power Fold/Tumble
CGS Supplemental Side Air Bags
CGUS Child Seat Anchor System-LATCH Ready
CG3S Advanced Multistage Front Air Bags**
CKCP Floor Carpet
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops
CK3S Plastic Swing Gate Trim Panel
CLES Front & Rear Floor Mats
CLHP Cargo Trim Panel w/Storage Net
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CSWS Driver Assist Handle
CTLS Base Door Trim Panel
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
DGES All 5-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGQ 5-Spd Automatic 545RFE Transmission
DHAP Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHPP Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
DJJS Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
DMEP 3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
DRAS Corporate 8.25 Rear Axle
DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
ENR 2.8L I4 Turbo Diesel Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEGP Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass
GEKS Flipper Swing Gate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror
GNCP Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors
GT9P Power Mirrors, Fold-Away
GVBC All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
GXMP Remote Keyless Entry
GXXP Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System
HAAS Air Conditioning
I24S Route 24 - UP, Rolla, CO
JAYS Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JCBS 120 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJBS Dual Note Electric Horns
JJJS 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
JJMP Auxiliary 12-Volt Rear Power Outlet
JKYS Power Accessory Delay
JPHP Speed Sensitive Power Locks
JPYS Pwr Windows, Front 1-Touch Down
K1LS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K3LS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
LACP Illuminated Entry
LCDP Map/Dome Reading Lamps
LDBP Cargo Compartment Lamp
LHDS Headlamp Off Time Delay
LMAS Halogen Headlamps
LNJP Fog Lamps
LPSS CHMSL Lamp
LSES Enhanced Accident Response System
MDAS Front License Plate Bracket
MFKS Body Color Grille
MLCS Gray Fascias
MT2S Trail Rated Badge
MVCS Jeep Badge
MVDS 4X4 Badge
MWES Side Roof Rails
MZRP Common Rail Diesel Badge
NAA Federal Emissions
NB1P Federal Tier 2, Bin 10 Emissions
NFPS 20.5 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHKP Engine Block Heater
NHMP Speed Control
PBJ Atlantic Blue Pearl Coat
QBJS Atlantic Blue Pearl Coat
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RBKS AM/FM Compact Disc Radio w/Chgr Ctrl
RCGS 6 Speakers
RDDS Fixed Long Mast Antenna
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCGP Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SDAS Normal Duty Suspension
SUAS Tilt Steering Column
TBBS Full Size Spare Tire
TBRS Outside Tire Carrier
TR7S P225/75R16 OWL All Season Tires
TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires
WKBS Matching Spare Wheel
WLDP 16X7.0 Lux Aluminum Wheels
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
XCAS Occupant Classification System
XFJP Class III Receiver Hitch
XFKP 7 Pin Wiring Harness
XFLP 7 to 4 Pin Wiring Adaptor
XGGS Grocery Bag Hooks
XJFS Tethered Fuel Filler Cap
XPFS Protective Coating and Remover
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

Engine ENR- 2.8L I4 Turbo Diesel Engine
Transmission DGQ- 5-Spd Automatic 545RFE Transmission

altdiesel · **Posted:** Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:10 pm

papaindigo wrote:

The 05 may or may not have a TracLok rear end as that was an option. The 06 will never have TracLok as it's incompatable with the ESP system that all 06 models have. Some love the ESP and some find it "helps" too much on twisty roads and don't like it. The 05 has a single speed sensor for both rear brakes while the 06 has one for each. Frankly I don't see much substantive difference between the 2 years (I have an 05 and my son has an 06). Brake size is the same at least the parts list has the same parts numbers for both years.

The timing belt change interval is 100K miles and I'd assume (you need to confirm this) that the 2012 new engine came with a new timing belt so the mileage count starts there. That said 2 thoughts: 1) something sounds a bit off with the 05 or maybe it's my suspicious nature but why is this person selling for $14.5k after putting $12k in the vehicle just 3 months ago that just sounds off enough that I'd want to circle back to the dealer and confirm that the work was done (I know this sounds really paranoid but I can create some really good fake dealer receipts) which leads to 2) you need to confirm with the dealer that the engine warranty is transferrable and how to transfer it, get that information in writing and make the sale completion contingent on the warranty actually being transferred to you and make sure the transfer is in writing. Paranoid I know but we have had folks burned on faulty warranty transfers. Late thought - the parts guys at a DC dealer can usually print out a report on a vehicle based on the VIN that should show all the work done on it by any DC dealer.

Assuming the 05 info is legit and you can get it for a good price I'd lean toward it based on the work done to date. From what I've seen a reasonable price for a CRD, either year, with ca. 75k miles on the engine is on the order of $11.5-$13.5 depending on condition and what extras are on the vehicle.

As for F-37 you can check for outstanding recallls using the VIN number on the section of the Jeep website for owners. The full F-37 to the best of my knowledge included a replacement torque convertor for all early 05s with the really early TC with the plastic part (don't worry about this if this 05 had that TC originally it would long since died and been replaced); a replacement TC if the 2n gen OEM TC had problems (uncommon but not unknown - no the Euro TC was not part of this) AND a ECU/TCM detune to reduce TC failures (don't ask me why a detune rather than a decent TC replacement). It's not uncommon to find a CRD that has had the F-37 but for whatever reason the detune was not done. The easy check is to drive the vehicle until it's a bit warmed up (tranny won't shift into higher gear until the fluid is warm enough) then on an open road slowly run the speed up to 65mph; if the last shift point is ca. 58mph the detune has not been done but if it's at ca. 62mph the detune has been done.

I'd also suggest you read Sir Sam's NOOB guide.

Is this the TrackLoc?
DHPP Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
DJJS Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
DMEP 3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
DRAS Corporate 8.25 Rear Axle
DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 20, 2012 4:00 pm

altdiesel wrote:

The 05 does in fact have all of the service records, however, the timing belt was not done when the long block was installed. I called the dealer and they have all the records, and confirmed the work done. The timing belt was opted to be re-used since it had not cracking and was clean. Very dumb, let me tell you.

Who in the hell goes to that expense and trouble, and does not replace the timing belt?! Something is certainly not right here. My guess is that that warranty won't transfer, or is not worth a squat. :dizzy:

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The 2006 is the better option here. Changing all the other parts and not the timing belt does not add up and should knock a $1000 off the price of the 2005 as a starter.

altdiesel · **Posted:** Fri Apr 20, 2012 4:42 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

The 2006 is the better option here. Changing all the other parts and not the timing belt does not add up and should knock a $1000 off the price of the 2005 as a starter.

That is what I first asked the guy. He came down from a way high of $16,000 to $14,500. I know, spending $12K on all new parts, long block, and not doing the timing belt?!?!? I told the guy that I was shocked. He blamed the dealer for not telling him.

The warranty is transferable. The glow plugs and the relay and the injectors have a 12 month, 12k mile warranty.

I think I am still going to go for the 06 with higher miles, and just buy the extended warranty for 3 yrs, 36K miles.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Fri Apr 20, 2012 9:39 pm

Did he skip the KY too when the dealer bent him over?

altdiesel · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:49 am

I have decided to skip the 2005, in favor of the 2006. I found out the tech at the dealership who did the install is not the brightest guy, and overall, the dealership where the work was done does not have a reputable name.

What should I look for on the 2006 as problem areas?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:58 am

05 and 06 problem areas are essentially the same. I've not seen much difference in wheel senor issues between the 2 just on the 06 rear a problem might be in 1 or 2 places instead of the 05 1 place. As I mentioned ESP annoys some folks but I don't recall seeing much in the way of problems with the system.

Sir Sam's NOOB guide covers all the obvious high point.

Other than the usual car stuff (brakes, battery, tires, air filter, etc) the very first thing I'd do is flush the cooling system and fill with HOAT antifreeze, service the tranny with 2 or 3 flush and fills with ATF+4, change the oil and filter using diesel rated correct weight synthetic oil, and probably change your fuel filter. All of this unless you are absolutely positive the PO used the proper fluids and when the fuel filter was last changed. The CRD engine has some tiny oil passages that don't like non-spec oil. Cooling system and tranny also can have problems with non-spec fluid.

altdiesel · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 1:25 pm

papaindigo wrote:

05 and 06 problem areas are essentially the same. I've not seen much difference in wheel senor issues between the 2 just on the 06 rear a problem might be in 1 or 2 places instead of the 05 1 place. As I mentioned ESP annoys some folks but I don't recall seeing much in the way of problems with the system.

Sir Sam's NOOB guide covers all the obvious high point.

Other than the usual car stuff (brakes, battery, tires, air filter, etc) the very first thing I'd do is flush the cooling system and fill with HOAT antifreeze, service the tranny with 2 or 3 flush and fills with ATF+4, change the oil and filter using diesel rated correct weight synthetic oil, and probably change your fuel filter. All of this unless you are absolutely positive the PO used the proper fluids and when the fuel filter was last changed. The CRD engine has some tiny oil passages that don't like non-spec oil. Cooling system and tranny also can have problems with non-spec fluid.

What I do know about the 2006 Sport 4wd I am hoping to get, is the owner has only used Mobil 1 full synthetic for the time he has had it. This coming Thursday I am having a diesel shop look at it for any problems. Is there anything that is tricky to spot as problem areas on the diesel? I am thinking I am going to ask him to pull the EGR to see how dirty it is.

Randy B · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:47 pm

I agree, with going for the 06. Not doing the t/b when having it apart is strange to me. I agree with papaindigo, change all fuilds. I would replace the entire fuel/water unit as well. Since new I have replaced the entire fuel/water separator unit every 25,000 miles, and filter at 12,000 miles. I have used Mobil One 0/40W oil since new with no problems. Also I would check the cac hoses, and even if they look good, think about getting a set of Samco's. :2cents:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:16 pm

Not to be difficult but why would one replace the entire fuel filter head unit every 25K miles? That seems like ca $125 you don't need to spend on a regular basis. If the original 1st gen unit has air in the fuel problems from the heater plug (not all do) replace it with a 2n gen unit (comes with a new filter and WIF sensor installed - save your old WIF as a spare) and the new fuel heater wiring pigtail. Once the 2n gen head unit is installed it should last the life of the vehicle; just swap in a new fuel filter at appropriate intervals.

Ditto on Samcos and look at a GDE tune down the road.

Randy B · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:26 pm

Well under the Maintenance schedules, it is recommend to replace at every 25,000 mile. I know there was problems with the 1st gen. head , melting at the heater connection. I have replaced mine 3 times since new, she has about 76,000 miles on her now. I guess you could get away without changing the entire unit until it starts leaking at the connector, or a fire. I consider it a maintenance item. I replace the filter every other oil change. Yes maintenance cost of our little beast's is costly.

mikmaze · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:31 pm

they both sound expensive. there is a 2005 in massachusetts with 38k on it asking 13500 that if i did not already have an 06 i would buy in a heartbeat.

user113 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 8:05 pm

I think the "Replace the fuel filter / water separator unit" in the maintenance schedule is really just referring to the fuel filter (which includes a water separator on the bottom) and not the entire head with heater and priming pump. If you have the newer head unit you should be good.

altdiesel · **Posted:** Sun Apr 22, 2012 1:25 am

How do I know if it is a newer head unit? Is it safe to assume that since I leaning towards the 2006, it has a newer head unit? I am getting what I think is a fair deal for the 2006 with 80,000 miles for $12,000. It's even close to where I live. Sure, I would pay more for lower miles, just haven't seen any that low around where I am. Kbb is about 12,500 for great condition. If I find any issues on the 2006, I will negotiate a lower price. Do you think it would be fair to ask him to knock off $1,000 for having to do the timing belt soon? Besides the t belt, what other major maintenance should I expect soon?

hucorey · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:29 am **Posts:** 378

altdiesel wrote:

How do I know if it is a newer head unit? Is it safe to assume that since I leaning towards the 2006, it has a newer head unit? I am getting what I think is a fair deal for the 2006 with 80,000 miles for $12,000. It's even close to where I live. Sure, I would pay more for lower miles, just haven't seen any that low around where I am. Kbb is about 12,500 for great condition. If I find any issues on the 2006, I will negotiate a lower price. Do you think it would be fair to ask him to knock off $1,000 for having to do the timing belt soon? Besides the t belt, what other major maintenance should I expect soon?

I wouldnt really worry too much about the filter head, unless you start to have problems, but definitely keep it in mind of eventually replacing it with the newer factory or a raycor model, like eurekaboy has. Just google his name with liberty crd.

Check for blowby out the oil fill cap. Pull the engine cover to see if he already has done the elephant hose mod. Torque convt may be your next big maintenance issue. If your somewhat mechanically inclined, the t belt isnt that bad of a job to do yourself for a lot less money.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:59 am

altdiesel - as far as I know the 2n gen OEM fuel head was post production in the US. Sir Sam's NOOB guide fuel filter bleeding video has a picture of the 2n gen head at the end. Short version is if the 2 wired plugs into the side of the top of the head are the same size and the right (heater) plug is bright blue then it's a 2n gen head.

Going for $1K off for routine service you will have to perform in 14K miles seems to me to be pushing the envelope a bit as opposed to doing the same thing if the vehicle was at 98K miles. The TB/WP job is the only major "routine" service on the horizon. However, just like any vehicle you have battery, brakes, tires, fluids, etc that require routine service. If the vehicle has good service records (IIRC you said it did at least for oil changes) you should be able to get a good picture of what needs to be done in the immediate future. If you can get it on a lift brake pads are easy enough to check. Off hand if most routine service is uptodate but it has a 1st gen fuel head and given that the the TB/WP is not too far off I'd try to get it for like $11.5k if the asking price is #12k.

You mentioned geting it into a diesel shop for a check. Don't know what they are likely to check but at least pull the plastic engine cover and look for signs of fuel or other leakage at the base of each of the 4 fuel injectors; not a common problem but not unheard of either (generally easy enough to fix with new copper washers and "O" rings but injectors can sometimes be a pain to pull). As to pulling and checking the EGR; my personal opinion is don't bother as it was dirty 10 minutes off the lot new so save you $s for a GDE tune and then forget about the EGR. Would be a good idea to have the shop pull any stored codes as there are some that don't throw a CEL although they should not be major.

Also invoke the instrument cluster test by holding the trip odometer button while turning the ignition on to make sure everything works. That will cycle all the cluster lights and gauge needles (FSM tells you what needle positions to expect)

FYI when you pull FSMs from Sir Sam's NOOB links get both 05 and 06 (05 lacks cooling system info and general diagnostics but has illustration keys while 06 is the reverse)

fastring · **Posted:** Sun Apr 22, 2012 11:13 am

Replacing the fuel filter head every 25k doesnt make any sense at all. Thats the same as replacing the engine block every 6k instead of just unscrewing the oil filter. Sure, the connection between the two could leak...

Anyhow, I'd skip on the one with the $12k receipt. If it actually was done, I'd question any mechanic and service writer that would install an old timing belt on a brand new long block. Who knows what other dumb idea they had along the way.

Or, look for another 05. I drove 500 miles to find my 05 and flat towed my other car behind the CRD on the way home, whats two or three tanks of gas to find the right rig. The additional electrical "features" on an 06 that werent "features" I would want kept me away from them.

As for $, I guess its not the biggest concern. Yes, you might may $1 or $2k over bluebook, big whoop, get what you want, its a $11-15k rig, if you find what makes you happy, $1 to $2k over some number in a book that doesnt track all that well for some low production vehicles doesnt really matter. If you were buying something new, that difference is just a few months of payments. If you buy what you want and keep it a few more months before selling it, you make up that difference.

Help deciding between a 2005 or 2006 CRD

Who is online