Hi All

Will hopefully be picking up a used 2005 CRD Limited this week. Its has 118,000 miles on it.

I previously had a 2007 KJ gasser and moved onto a 2011 JK but find myself missing the KJ and with needing a second vehicle this seemed like the logical choice.

But I'm not that technically savy, I know how to change out sparks plugs, change oil, etc but diesels are foreign to me. What is there to look for?

So far the items I have listed to check within the service report is:
Brakes pads, rotors
Shocks, springs, tires
Wheel Bearings, U joints, ball joints
Fluids: Oil, Power Steering, Differentials, Transfer Case, Brakes Fluid, Engine coolant.
Timing Belt, Tensioner, and both Idlers, Water Pump
Rockers, Lifters
Cam Seals, EGR, glow plugs
Filters: Fuel, transmission
Recalls? TSBs

Anything I'm missing?

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learning from life can sometimes feel like drinking from a firehose

Welcome aboard and you need to read Sir Sam's NOOB guide. Most of what you have listed is pretty routine and unless the vehicle was dealer serviced it's best to asssume the antifreeze, tranny fluid, and oil need to be drained and replaced with fluids that meet factory specs (i.e. HOAT antifreeze, ATF+4, and appropriate weight diesel rated synthetic engine oil - "universal" fluids and other substitutes are not acceptable).

The only critical item on the list is the timing belt. Unless you have proof positive that it's been change with that mileage it needs to be changed immediately. Proof positive consists of paid in full work order with part numbers or the equivalent written documentation which could include empty parts boxes in a pinch. Proof positive does NOT include yeh my buddy did it or may all time favorite "our mechanic inspected the belt and it's fine". The latter is a flat lie as the belt is buried in there far enough that it's impossible to inspect short of being 1 step away from replacement. This is absolutely critical as diesel engines are interference engines and a timing belt failure results in pistons/valves trying to occupy the same space which translates into a set of 16 failed rockers and lifters at $50+ per set just for parts.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I would also look for the phone number of a good therapist.

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'06 Khaki Jeep Liberty CRD
65,000 miles
2nd Gen. Fuel Head, 2nd Turbo Charger, 2nd Timing Belt, Reman HD TC, EHM, GDE Full Torque Eco-Tune, 7v Etecno GPs
Blue Samco hoses, because I want people to say, "Here's a guys who knows what he's after."
MAP sensor: clean.
As soon as the CRD reached the limit of the warranty, CEL went on.

I thought this forum was the therapist or all the therapist we needed.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Papa,

I hope this forum isn't our only recourse for therapy! I've never heard of a good therapist who responded to problems with the following formula:

"Ohhh, hang in there! Is it this? Is it that? No, it's this! No, it's not that, I've been through this twice before, it's that! Hang in there! Your mechanics are idiots! Oh, Well. Hang in there. It's your fault!"

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'06 Khaki Jeep Liberty CRD
65,000 miles
2nd Gen. Fuel Head, 2nd Turbo Charger, 2nd Timing Belt, Reman HD TC, EHM, GDE Full Torque Eco-Tune, 7v Etecno GPs
Blue Samco hoses, because I want people to say, "Here's a guys who knows what he's after."
MAP sensor: clean.
As soon as the CRD reached the limit of the warranty, CEL went on.

What papindigo said, x2! And remember, the $50 per valve is for 16 valves. Not to mention the labor cost for teardown and reassembly. Timing belt failure is major bad juju. VERY much cheaper to do it even though they did it but can't prove it.

Provided routine maintenance (oil/filter changes, TB belt change, tranny fluid/filter changes) has been done to vehicle, the following are two show stoppers for me:

1. Crank case ventilation filter to filter out turbo oil from intake. If you've ever cleaned a clogged intake caused by EGR soot and oil in intake, you'll know what I'm talking about. The only possible exception I'd make if EGR was disabled with a GDE tune, SEGR install, or elephant hose. If person doesn't have any of these, they, in my opinon only, don't know enough about turbo charged diesels to maintain them properly.

2. Driving habit...specifically with regard to turbo cool down. This is my 4th turbo diesel vehicle and I haven't had a turbo failure yet. I'm a firm believer in a mandatory 1 minute cooldown for city driving, 2 minutes if I'm shutting off from a highway drive (I drive at 80-90mph) and 5 minutes minimum for towing. A hot turbo shutdown can cause oil to coke on its bearings. I figure if a 2 minute mandatory idle cooldown on the turbine engines on helicopters I used to fly was good enough for a multi-million dollar engine, its good enough for a turbo on a diesle engine.

---> Some interesting facts about cooldowns: Hare the power turbine engine temp limitations on the turbine engines on the CH47 I used to fly and you can compare them to what I'm told is the 550-600 deg Celcius usual max temps for a turbocharger and most folks shut down their turbos (if they have a guage) at 200 deg C or less. Turbine engines run much hotter but the principal of cooling down the engine to protect the engine bearings apply.
400°C to 815°C Continuous Operation
855°C Max for NOT more than 30 min.
900°C Max for NOT more than 10 min.
930°C Max for NOT more than 2.5 min.
816°C - 940°C Time-Limited Operation
940°C Max for NOT more than 12 sec. NEVER EXCEED