CRD A/T Trans. Nuetral Safety Switch Question

bearhunter · **Joined:** Sat May 07, 2011 6:08 pm **Posts:** 12

I have an 06 CRD with A/T that will not start. Starter checks out good, relay is good, so the next logical step is the nuetral safety switch. Where is it located, internal or external? There are 2) 2-wire switches on the left side as well as a harness that evidently connects to an internal module. 1) 3-wire switch on the right side. It would be helpful to know what I'm looking for, for further testing. Thanks.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 09, 2012 7:37 am

It's internal and part of a $400+ soliniod pack located above the valvebody.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Jun 09, 2012 9:57 am

How old's the battery?

1st issue on Liberty's is that you have to have enough voltage to turn on the computer, before the engine will run, current to crank the engine - is not the same thing.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jun 09, 2012 10:52 am

I know nothing of the testing you have done but that may not be the next logical step depending on exactly what happens when you turn the key on. Turning the key turns a pin running under the steering column (that pin is a not uncommon DCJ failure point as it can crack causing intermittent start or break causing no start) which then turns on the ignition switch on the left side of steering column (another not uncommon failure point which produces no start but may, I'm not sure, turn radio and other stuff on) the ignition switch then tells the ECU it's ok to engage the starter and start the engine.

Check out this link (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61233&p=678574&hilit=+brother#p678574) as both parts are relatively cheap and easy to replace. If you need a writeup email me.

As to the shift interlock cable geordi says "Pull the shield off the top of the gear shifter, there are 2 small cables in there; the passenger-side one is the sensor cable, it's not electrical, it's an aircraft wire; the sensor is actually located under the steering wheel. Unhooked, problem solved permanently. I thought of a quick way to test the actuator cable without pulling anything apart on the shifter console - With the engine off and in park, pull back slightly on the shifter to apply tension, and try cranking the engine. If it doesn't go... The cable is the culprit b/c the tolerance (and how much it moves normally) isn't much. The cable is pushed toward the front of the vehicle when the selector is in park, and just shifts backwards slightly when the selector is anywhere else. All you need to do is unclip the end of the cable, and push the end into the sheath until it stops (about 1/4") and tuck it away in there. This won't affect anything else in the operation of your CRD, the shift interlock (that foot-on-brake-to-shift) idiot switch will still be there and functioning... Unless that 2-wire connector happens to "fall out" like it did on mine. Strange how that happens sometimes."

As just mentioned battery can be an issue to even if it "seems" good a relatively insignificant lower voltage can annoy the electronics and produce a no start.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jun 09, 2012 2:33 pm

Heh... What Papaindigo said that I said. :-)r

I was totally just about to describe the same thing for you, it does sound like an electronic problem inside the cabin that is preventing the computer from allowing the starter to engage. These things have WAY too many computer driven parts. My first car was a 1983 Lincoln. I had a problem with the starter relay on that for a while (goofy design with 2 solenoids for some reason) and one of them quit. How did I get it running? Turn the key on, open the hood... And short the heavy pins on that solenoid with a set of pliers! VROOM.

Yea... Those days are long gone.

bearhunter · **Joined:** Sat May 07, 2011 6:08 pm **Posts:** 12

Thanks for the replies. As for what testing has been done with key switch in "start position" (all other accessories work normally): Began at the solenoid on top of starter, no power to the small activator wire, next onto the relay in the relay block. No power to acctivate the relay although one pin to the relay is hot all the time. Two of the larger relays will click. Swapped out relay to no avail, however I pried the plastic cover off the relay and "pinched" it, the engine will start and run, (I can activate the started this way whether the key is on or not). Battery checks good, even swapped out a new battery to no avail. With this in mind my conclusion was either Nuetral safety or ign. switch. The info on the small wire in shift housing will be the next step.
This forum is a "gold mine" of information on this seemingly over-engineered piece of equipment. If any of you can think of something I missed please post it and thanks for your help, it is much appreciated!!

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:06 pm

What you have discovered is that the computer is not allowing the starter relays to activate. Now you just need to figure out why. The cabled linkages in the steering column are a particular PITA, but I suspect that you will find it in the shifter cable, as that one only travels about 1/4" from open to closed, and the plastic can easily wear itself so that it stays open.

Yea - overengineered and a STUPID design in a lot of cases.

bearhunter · **Joined:** Sat May 07, 2011 6:08 pm **Posts:** 12

My CRD is A 2006, and the sensor cable is on drivwes side . Unhooked and pushed it in houseing. Did not solve problem, still will not activate start from key. Now looking at steering column. Are ther any wires that can be crossed to eliminate possible internal silinode problem? Thanx

tomasnc · **Posted:** Wed Jul 25, 2012 3:59 pm

Bearhunter,

Did you figure out what is the cause of your starter issues?

Thanks,

Tom

CRD A/T Trans. Nuetral Safety Switch Question

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