So, in my quest to track down the air in my fuel issues, I have come to the conclusion it must be coming from the connections at the tank. (new filter head, and facet lift pump)

The questions:

Can the fittings be replaced with hose clamps with the tank still in place?

Can the quick disconnects just be cut off and replaced with the hose clamps or is more fuel line need to be spliced in some way?



Any other advice would be more than welcome,

Snowman

I replaced mine when I installed the lift pump. two different size hoses, can't recall exactly what I used.

I don't think you can do it without dropping the tank, but you could probably support the tank with a floor jack and undo the straps so you can get to the top of the tank without dropping it completely.

EDIT - 5/16 line is what I used.

_________________
2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

I have not needed to do this but everything I've seen says you have to drop the tank to get to "all" the quick disconnect fittings (NOTE do this on a low fuel tank). Look around for intank lift pump install instructions and such. IIRC the smaller of the 2 lines is the fuel return which really does not have to be replaced.

Big caution though - be sure the get the best diesel rated fuel line you can get (see for example my post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=69531&p=743441&hilit=marine#p743441) lest you get short term fuel line rot and be sure to use enough fuel line to avoid kinks during the install as the tank is lifted back in place.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I hope this helps.

from: Biohazard KJ CRD

site:
viewtopic.php?t=37868&highlight=lift+pump

shows fittings on pump:


probably need to extend fuel lines:

So I understand this correctly, there is no splicing necessary just a new run of hose from the metal fittings to the tank connections?

I did not splice the fuel lines. just replaced the hard lines with hose and used non-pinching hose clamps


Don't use this clamp type, can tear up the hose under the clamp and result in a leak

_________________
2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

the metal fittings are nice and long from what i remember. it should be pretty easy to get enough hose on them to stay put. same goes for the plastic fittings on the fuel tank end, but be careful not to over tighten. the plastic isn't all that strong.

also, when you get to disconnecting the original lines, remember to push in on the colored parts of the fittings. many have tried prying them out with screw drivers and it renders them useless. and yes, you will have to drop the tank to get to the fittings on top of it (don't forget to loosen/disconnect the fuel fill tube and tank vent).

_________________
05' CRD Sport
GDE Eco Tune
Provent
Samco Hoses
Carter Lift Pump