2005 vs 2006 CRD

skates04 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 4:25 pm

I guess this is my first post on the forum, I have been a member over on Jeep Forum for about 7 years and have owned a TJ, KJ, I now drive an XJ and I am looking at buying a CRD Liberty. I had a Gas version a few years back that I enjoyed and at the time I could not afford a CRD since they were pretty new and out of my price range. My wife actually rolled our last Liberty

I was a bit more hardcore when I had my TJ and did alot of rock crawling but now that I have a family and a young child I am looking for something a little more mild for camping trips and just exploring the mountains out here in Colorado. The XJ I have is on 31's and is sufficient for my needs but it has high mileage and I would like something a bit more comfortable and cleaner for the wife to make it more enjoyable for her.

I am looking at 2005 model and a 2006 that are for sale in my area... I have been looking to see if there are advantages/disadvantages between the years. The only thing I found was in the noob section is it sounded like the EGR valve is easier to bypass with out a CEL than on the 2006. Was there any other updates or improvements/disimprovements to the 2006 model?? I am leaning towards the 06 just because it is a limited and has some more options. The 05 is a sport and is already lifted but I am not sure how it was lifted (If it was done right) and figured it would be changed out anyways since I plan on doing a OME lift pretty quickly.

Any tips would be appreciated!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 4:52 pm

There are only minor differences between an 05 and 06 CRD. Short version is go for the best deal on price and options you can find keeping in mind that the 100,000 timing belt service is MANDATORY so budget accordingly. If it has not been done yet you can probably get a good price and service from Sir Sam in Colorado. If some tells you it has been done don't believe it without seeing the service ticket. If a seller says his mechanic has "checked" the timing belt and it's fine he is lying thru his teeth as the TB is impossible to check without going so far into the front of the engine that one would be nuts not to spend the extra 30 minutes or so to toss on a new belt.

Differences between the model years:
1. 05 might come with TracLok (e.g limited slip rear end), does have 3 "wheel" speed sensors (1 on each side in front and a shared one over the differential in the rear).
2. 06 came with ESP (electronic stability control) hence it cannot have TracLok and has a speed sensor on each of the 4 wheels.
Communication with the vehicle "brain" is slightly different between the 2 model years but in either case communication with all vehicle "brains" is only possible with the high $ dealer tool or it's equivalent. Less expensive scanners can generally read engine codes only.

For more detail read Sir Sam's NOOB guide. The best, IMHO, EGR solution for either year is a GDE tune.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 5:43 pm

The '05 CRDs have window regulators that are much less prone to failure vs. the '06 CRDs. Apparently, it's in the way that the regulator attaches to the glass that is the key. There is a "fix-it" for the regulator that keeps it good from a source called Steiger's http://www.steigerperformance.com/PRODUCTS/sp13001.html

All things being equal, go for the one with the fewer miles on it.

BTW, x2 on the GDE tunes, Full-Torque Eco Tune used here. Hope this helps.

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:46 pm

I'd differ a slight bit from Hoosier CRD on those window regulators having replaced those on my 05 and stoutdog's 06 IMHO the 05 is more prone to failure than the later model 06 not that it matters much. His failed before mine although at least one of mine was near failure when pulled. In both our vehicles the regulator assembly was identical; a single ball stud engaged in a plastic part. At some point during the 06 model year the single ball stud assembly was replaced on the assembly line BUT the plastic part where it hooks to the control cable where the plastic breaks remains essentially the same. In some cases 05s got the later assembly as a warranty repair (window glass, regulator and all at a cost to DCJ of ca. $200 plus labor per vehicle) but the later assembly is not all that much better IMHO. Bottom line is a bean counter $0.10 plastic junk part was used to save maybe 3 oz of weight over a $0.50 metal part. The plastic part breaks and the solution is the customer gets to spend ca. $90 per window for the part that should have been used in the first place.

FYI this is a KJ problem not a CRD problem and the underlying problem is a general, not automotive, industry problem.

For details and the solution on KJs and other vehicles go to http://www.steigerperformance.com/

PS if you get the Steiger replacement, I did and they are great, for the 05/06 single ball stud the instructions say to bend the stud horizontal/parallel to the ground. That's ok but the real point is to make sure the clip engages equally on the back side of the ball head, if not pull the clip and twick the bend. Whatever kit you get be sure to run the window up and down at least 12 times to make sure everything works fine as redoing the job (been there done that due to not understanding clip position) is a pain. Also the black water dam goop sticks to everything so be careful on removal. This will make sense when you see the instructions or do the job which takes 1hr+ for the 1st window and 30-45 minutes for the other windows. We bit the bullet and did all our windows when one failed.

skates04 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 4:39 am

Thanks for the replies... Looks like I will be picking up the 06 Tuesday Night... 70k Miles, on a loaded Limited for about 14k... Feel like I am getting a decent deal.

skates04 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 4:02 pm

Well I ended up with the 05... The 2006 was a lemon, tons of scratches, bondo, check engine light and ran horrible... I was very mislead by the dealer selling it. Luckily the 05 was in the same area and to my suprise the lift on it was OME components so I was happy it seems to have been done right. I got it for 13k with 66k miles. Got a set of 265/75/16s going on it right now. I was very happy to get 31mpg driving through the mountains in Colorado for almost a 200 mile trip.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:10 pm

skates04 wrote:

Well I ended up with the 05... The 2006 was a lemon, tons of scratches, bondo, check engine light and ran horrible... I was very mislead by the dealer selling it. Luckily the 05 was in the same area and to my suprise the lift on it was OME components so I was happy it seems to have been done right. I got it for 13k with 66k miles. Got a set of 265/75/16s going on it right now. I was very happy to get 31mpg driving through the mountains in Colorado for almost a 200 mile trip.

Well, CONGRATULATIONS! I hope that it turns out to be a good Jeep for you.

BTW, trust but verify the EVIC regarding the fuel mileage. Hand calculations tend to show that they can be quite optimistic.

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

skates04 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 10, 2012 1:47 am

Yup, I did the calculatios, I don't believe mine has the EVIC... Today I changed the oil, swapped out an upper A-Arm that had a bad ball joint, and cleaned the map sensor... After seeing my map sensor I am debating buying the ECO tune to get the EGR shut off... That thing was nasty!! I think all I have left to do is get the the tail lights swapped out... The previous owner thought it would be cool to put in a set of clear tail lights :banghead:

2005 vs 2006 CRD

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