I have been the proud owner of this libby for a couple of years. I love her. Day before yesterday, i am driving home, no big deal, then stumble, stumble. what was that? MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, MIS, etc.

lots of black smoke. then i let off the fuel. seams ok. get back on the fuel, knock, knock and of course mis, mis. so i nurse her home. like at idle.

Now she starts. but missing, haven't tried to rev her up too much. lots of black smoke.

Where do i even start to find this problem?

So today i tried taking off the map.

it was very dirty. and very wet. i cleaned it. No change

i also replaced the fuel filter, no change.

I might also add that quite often before she would have no power, then i would stop and start her and she would be fine. I assumed that it was something to do with fuel before.

I might also say that my enigine light has been on since i bought the car. the previous owner said that it was because of the glow plugs. I also unplugged the MAF so the light was always on.

Please if someone has any idea what order to look at this problem, i would greatly appreciate some help..

Thanks

Howdy - Welcome to LOST

you really need to read the codes, I think some of the auto shops - pep boys, Autozone will read them for you.

How many miles - anywhere close to a timing belt change?

also check turbo hoses - they'd kill power and make a lot smoke - not normally a miss issue.

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2005 CRD
stuff
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Many variables to decifer here.

Here are some of the reasons for black smoke in a diesel engine:

Black Smoke
This is due to a air to fuel ratio imbalance, either the fuel system is delivering too much fuel into the engine or there is not enough clean air (oxygen ) a few things to look for :

•Faulty injectors (injectors need attention at about 100.000 to 120 000 miles)
•Faulty injector pump
•Dirty air cleaner
•Turbocharger or intercooler faulty
•Problems within cylinder head, valves clogged up due to faulty EGR (exhaust gas recycling unit)

we need more info from you.

1. how many miles on the engine.
2. when was the last time you changed the fuel filter?
3. are you running an EHM?

you must get the engine codes first.

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

140K miles, I am working on that. I don't really want to drive the car anymore. I would hat to fudge it up if i hadn't already.

1.The motor has 140K miles on it.
2. Just today, no change.
3. EHM? don't know, but i don't think so the car is stock.

I did pull one injector, just to see what it looked like, no idea what i am looking for.

I did pull the map and then the round black thing, i think (ccv) and they both had a slick black layer of goo on them. I feel if that crap is all through the intake there could be alot of things full of goo.

I am trying to get the codes read at my house, because of the knock if you get on the fuel i don't really want to drive it.

Thank you for your help so far. I will try to get the codes read.

Was the timing belt changed at 100,000 miles?

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Does it by chance sound like this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95x7NiozPB0

At 140k your timing belt is 40k past its change interval, from the symptoms you described you may very well have gotten a slipped timing belt and damaged the engine.

Do you know if your timing belt was changed at 100k? Does it sound anything like that video?

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"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
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No the belt has not been replaced. I phoned the previous owner and he phoned XYZ and then, no i don't believe we did that.

Where did it jump? i looked at the timing marks on the two pulleys and they still look like they are in time with each other. Could it have jumped in the crank?

Yes i guess it sound something like that, mine sounds better until you rev it a little then stammers though. i guess i might try to put some video up.

How do i align the motor TDC and where are the timing marks supposed to be on the top and bottom?

Thanks again.

Sounds like it could be a malfunctioning or clogged fuel injector.

Someone suggected this stuff B&G Diesel injector cleaner may help, they say it works: http://www.bgprod.com/products/diesel.html

Or fill the fuel filter to the brim with Seafoam and just let her run for a while.

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

http://youtu.be/iB-uno3GsQY

Here is what she sounds like. Also just so happened to stop with both timing marks at the top so i shot that too.

Cannot see the timing mark on the crank pulley? so i don't know if that is at TDC.

Ya when mine skipped it skipped on the crank, the cams were timed correctly to each other, but the crank was off.

Yours does not sound as bad as mine did as far as I can tell. Without really tearing it apart its hard to determine if it suffered the same damage that mine did.

When the belt slips the rocker arms are designed to fail in such a way that the valves do not get damaged, this means that that valve with a bad rocker will not open correctly.

Mine was misfiring and backfiring out the intake:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5v4mJb31sA

One possible thing to check would be to pull the intake hose off and see if you feel any poofs of air coming back out the intake, that may be indicative of a similar type of failure.

Otherwise it may be worth trying to track down other problems before tearing it all apart to check the rockers(not an easy task).

If its not timing belt related once you get it sorted out the TB needs to be changed, I had one with a slipped belt at 116k, so really anything over 100k is borrowed.

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"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Thank you so much for all the input. I will look more into it tomorrow.

I appreciate all of the ideas.

now my head hurts.

OK so here are the codes. I think

P0203
P0204
P0201
P0202
P0504
P0101
P0610
P0102
P1267
B1301
P0106

THEN I CLEARED THEM BECAUSE I HAD LOOSED THE FUEL LINE WHILE IT WAS RUNNING AND OTHER STUFF SO I WANTED TO SEE WHAT POPPED BACK UP

P0610
P0102
P1267
WERE BACK AFTER A 20 SECOND RUN OF THE MOTOR


i assume one of them at least is for the maf, it is unplugged.
What else???

Also can anyone please tell me how to align the cranck to tdc

Thanks

ok 0610 is code that is permanently thrown and is often the result of trying to jumpstart the vehicle, it will need an ECU reflash from GDE or a new ECU to clear it(I have the same problem on mine, but it doesn't represent any of the problems you are seeing here, so forget about it now)

The 0102 is the maf code, ignore it.

the 1267 is a glow plug #4 code IIRC, might have a bad glow plug, it would be bad if it broke and part of it stuck below a valve. does the vehicle run better when it is warmed up?

Next step is a leakdown/compression test, you remove an injector and install the injector compression tester adapter, you can then pressurize it to test leakdown or hookup a compression tester, that would tell you if you have some sort of mechanical fault at least.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

I guess it could still be time if someone can tell me how to get the motor to Top dead center or whatever alignment mark it takes to do the valve timing.

could a injector make it get too much fuel?

P0201 - Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0202 - Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0203 - Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0204 - Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Malfunction

P0101 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem

P1267 - #4 Glowplug voltage low

B1301 - Power Door Lock Circuit Open

P0106 - Manifold Aboslute Pressure System

P0504 - Brake Switch "A"/"B" Correlation - ENGINE START AND DRIVE ABILITY AT ALTITUDE / BRAKE SWITCH DTC

P0610 - Control Module Vehicle Options Error

Off the wall codes..... could it be a chafed harness?

What year is your Liberty?

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I've seen two different sets of instructions on the Seafoam website. I'm guessing that the "hot soak" method has the potential to do a better job?

http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use- ... tment.html - Cleaning and Lubricating Diesel Fuel Injectors

"Begin by removing the cover to expose the fuel filter canister. Remove the fuel filter canister cap. Carefully remove the fuel filter. Use absorbent towels to soak up any remaining fuel in the canister. Now fill the canister with Sea Foam® and replace the fuel filter. Make certain the filter is fully primed with Sea Foam® to avoid creating an air lock. Reattach the canister cover and close up the top of the unit. Start the engine. The diesel engine can run on pure Sea Foam®. As Sea Foam® liquefies the varnish and fuel residue in the injectors and cylinders, white clouds of exhaust will be emitted for a few minutes."


http://www.seafoamsales.com/diesel-engine-faqs.html - What are the do's and don'ts of Sea Foam® use in diesel engines?

"Another use for Sea Foam® in Diesel applications is cleaning fuel injectors. This is accomplished by getting engine to operating temperature then shut off. Remove the fuel filter (replace filter if needed.) Empty all diesel fuel from filter or filter housing and fill filter or housing with straight Sea Foam®. Reinstall filter on engine, making sure there is no air in filter. Start engine and let run about two minutes, then shut engine off and let sit about 5 minutes. This is called a “HOT SOAK” letting the Sea Foam® soak into the carbon. After the “hot soak” period, restart the engine and road test, driving aggressively for about 5 miles. This will clean carbon from the injectors and the combustion chamber inside the engine."

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Have you pulled the intake boost hose off and felt for any backfiring through the intake?

Before you go checking engine timing(because its not particularly easy and involves a lot of teardown), I would start to think about doing a compression/leakdown test, you need only pull the injectors to do that test so its much easier to do, and would tell you if you have some sort of compression fault, be it valve timing related, bad rockers, or part of a GP that stuck below a valve.

To check the engine timing your going to need the cam locking pins and the crank locking pin, see this thread for pictures of the miller 1052, 1053, and 1089
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62477

You check the timing by turning the engine to 90°ADTC, then you can install those camshaft locking pins into holes in the valve cover to lock the cams in place, then you can insert the 1089 or suitable sized drill bit into the flywheel hole to check that timing.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic