My jeep seems to take a while to turnover, it always starts eventually and runs fine apart from this fault. This happens everything I start it doesn't matter if it's warm or cold it always does the same thing. Any ideas, I thought of changing glow plugs but not convinced this is the answer.

Not sure what type of fuel filter is on yours, but have changed it? Have you tried to pump it off and bleed it?

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2006 Sport, GDE FT Eco Tune, Custom Trans Tune
2015 Ram 1500 Big Horn EcoDiesel, GDE Hot Tune

This is my first jeep, how do you pump it off and bleed it, I know where the fuel filter is but don't know when it was changed last. Is the pump on top of the fuel filter? Where is the bleed valve? Thanks for reply

Welcome to the Forum. I suggest that you check out Sir Sam's noob guide at the sticky section of this forum. There, you will find lots of helpful hints.

As for priming and bleeding the filter, it may be a bit different with your 2004. The ones we have in the states, there is a black mushroom shaped plunger on the top drivers side of our fuel filter head. On the opposite side, there is a bleed screw. Procedure would be to pump several times to you feel it getting hard, then bleed the air, repeating until you get solid fuel.

Also, if you are not sure when the last time the filter was changed, get it changed. It could be clogging up.

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2006 Sport, GDE FT Eco Tune, Custom Trans Tune
2015 Ram 1500 Big Horn EcoDiesel, GDE Hot Tune

pretty sure the 2.5 had a Racor type filter
so less likely to leak air - but it can still be clogged

this is where Stan takes out the US 2.8 filter and replaces it with the Racor - shows the pump well.
http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/racor.htm

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Yeah the 2.5 CRD has a Racor type filter. I will post up a procedure for how to prime it.

Also for the OP, the 2.5 has a basic glow-plug setup.
The glow plugs are 11 volts and get their voltage direct from the battery via two big relays....no glow plug controller and no error-checking by the ECU to tell you if you have a bad glow plug.

So there could be a problem with the glow plugs without you knowing it......how cold is it at the moment?

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

OK the procedure to prime the fuel system:

Unscrew the white plastic plunger which is located on the top front of the fuel head.

Pull this plunger up up out of the bore until it stops.

Pump the primer plunger up and down until air bubbles cannot be seen in the fuel filter cap at the bottom of the fuel filter/water separator.

The brass plug on the Right Side of the filter head as you face it from the front is the air bleed plug.....the service manual procedure does not mention this but I believe you need to loosen this after you have pumped up the pressure.


@Needham99...if you PM me your E-mail address I can send you the Export 2.5/2.8 CRD Service Manual attachment PDF which has a lot of service and maintenance info on these Export CRDs of ours....it is about 4.5 Mb in size.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Many thanks for the help. My email is b.needham1@yahoo.co.uk

When hearing hoofbeats think horses not elephants so since taking a while to turn over implies slow spinning of the engine the very first question I'd ask is what's the age/condition of the battery and associated connections including main grounds. Absent a really good battery with plenty of cranking power no diesel of any make/model will start "happily" if at all.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I've bought glow plugs, it can only help and I will try charging the battery and post the results. Cheers guys

Follow-up. What's the age of your battery and its rated CCA? I ask because charging an old or low CCA battery will often not do much if anything for the battery's "output" ability. Running a true load test with an appropriate load tester will identify if the battery output is upto specs and even load testers can be off. For example I once had an almost new battery, different vehicle, gasser, and years ago, with an intermittent short between cells which resulted in random no start but power to lights and radio although if I tried again a few minutes later the vehicle would start just fine. Load tester showed nothing until we happened to catch the battery while the short was active.

Not saying charging won't tell you anything just saying if your battery is well into or nearing the end of its warranty period you might consider at least dropping in a loaner battery of sufficient CCA to see if that helps.

When my OEM Red Top started to crank slow at about 6 yrs of age I installed the Sears battery, see my signature, and slow crank went away. Moved the Red Top to my boat and it does fine there but spinning a 75 or so HP 2-stroke boat motor requires a whole lot less battery output than spinning a diesel.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Took it to a diesel specialist, he ran some diagnostic and pressure tests and found injector 3 was leaking back diesel, repaired it and she fires up straight away now.
Getting my jeep remapped next week too.