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 Post subject: Post timing belt change???
PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:22 pm 
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Location: Rockford, IL
Did my timing belt change yesterday and everything went pretty good. However when I was doing it my mark that I put on the fuel pump pulley was right on one of the teeth in the new belt so put the pulley on a tooth right next to it. She runs great, just like it was running but now once it hits 3000rpm it just won't give any more... limp mode?? Could the fuel pump pulley being off one tooth cause this??


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 Post subject: Re: Post timing belt change???
PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:27 pm 
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SOLVED!!! Connector on the side of the air filter box wasn't connected all the way...

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 Post subject: Re: Post timing belt change???
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 12:33 pm 
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So, how far off is the injection timing? Your experience here is a textbook example of why you can't do a timing belt on these vehicles without using a computer to help set the timing: Mark & Pray only works at all by the sheerest of coincidence. Yeah, yeah, I know, "It runs great." But I'll wager the timing is way off, and you might want to check it before you burn a valve.


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 Post subject: Re: Post timing belt change???
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:39 pm 
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naturist wrote:
So, how far off is the injection timing? Your experience here is a textbook example of why you can't do a timing belt on these vehicles without using a computer to help set the timing: Mark & Pray only works at all by the sheerest of coincidence. Yeah, yeah, I know, "It runs great." But I'll wager the timing is way off, and you might want to check it before you burn a valve.


FYI no computer will help you set the timing on this engine. Retiming the engine is an entirely mechanical process.

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 Post subject: Re: Post timing belt change???
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:02 pm 
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X2+ pretty much the same for even the 3.7L gasser engine and all other engines that lack the equivalent of a distributer (Note even on engines with distributers "timing" by using a timing light and moving the distributer only impacts ignition timing - crank/piston vs valve timing is and always has been set mechanically by aligning timing marks at the crank and camshaft ends of the chain/belt system just like is done for the CRD). To the extent computer controlled engine "timing" can be adjusted it's handled on the fly by the software in the onboard computer system(s) and only modification of the software (sort of what GDE does) can change the "timing".

That's not the say that the engine is not timed. It most certainly is timed as Sir Sam notes which is extremely important for piston/valve operation. The CP3 (aka fuel pump) does have a timing mark but it only lines up IIRC on every 3rd engine revolution. How important fuel pump timing is I don't know. I do know when I do my TB and stoutdogs I fully intend to mark everything AND count TB teeth between selected locations before/during/after removal and installation.

Bottom line is one needs to distinguish between 1) timing of the crank/piston and valve/cam rotation which is set mechanically (critical on diesel or other interference engines lest piston and valve try to occupy the same space) on all engines I've ever worked on going back into the late 1950's and 2) timing of injecting and/or firing the fuel which is a totally different thing.

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 Post subject: Post timing belt change???
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:26 pm 
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Or you could, you know... Have a fellow friendly CRD guy assist with the gig. :)

I'm sure you will be fine with the job, no matter what, the main thing is getting the top two pins in place and checking the holes in the crankshaft pulley for vertical alignment. If it drove to the timing job, you can be confident the timing is correct when both top pins sink to their bases.

Sir Sam is correct (for the other poster) that a computer is useless in setting timing on these. PURELY mechanical process, and there is exactly ONE correct setting.

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 Post subject: Re: Post timing belt change???
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:41 pm 
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Location: Rockford, IL
I'm Happy to report that she runs great!
I tripple checked that everything was in the correct place before the pins went in. I was a little nervous about the fuel pump being off a tooth but maybe the old belt had streched a bit? I think the hardest part of the job was getting the dam fan loose and off, there is almost no room to get in there.
The thermostat needs to be done too but that will come soon, the needle holds around the first 1/4 mark on the guage.
I do have one odd noise that it is making, not the engine but the drive train but i'll start a new thread for that.

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