ARP Studs

Greasey Bob · **Joined:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:34 am **Posts:** 228

I have 145k miles on my Jeep now and it has been running great. I was thinking that at 200k miles (1.5-2.5 years away) Instead of just doing the timing belt I would change the headbolts also if I make it to 200k miles. I figure that at that point half of the work is already done. And I like the idea of the head studs with nuts on the top so that the bolt is all the way in the block and the nuts get torqued to the studs.

Anybody have similar thinking, or actually changed them before they are needed. I am pretty sure if my Jeep goes it is going to be coolant related.

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Thu Jan 03, 2013 2:05 am

I replaced a warped head at 94k. Had the dealer do it using a Chrysler re-man head. Now 10k miles later it's leaking again. Dealer is in the process of tearing it down now. Hopefully we caught it before the head warped. I doubt they'll install studs for me but once I get it back I may borrow the cam tools from GDE and my Dad and I will just do the stud install proactively. Jeep is going to become our 3rd car and only a few thousand miles per year. I worry that if the dealer screws up this install too it will take 5 years for the leak to develop and by then the repair won't be covered under warranty.

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Jan 03, 2013 5:21 am

Sorry to hear that Grey wolf.

I also installed a used cylinder head in my previous CRD after a head gasket failure and the leak returned same as yours did.
I was told that reusing a remanufactured cylinder head that had already been part of a head gasket leak, will not solve the problem. the leak will return.

It is very difficult to straighten failed aluminum. If you want to see what happens to aluminum under high heat, hold a piece of aluminum foil under a flame for a short while and see how quickly it weakens and distorts. Trying to straighten it back flat is no guarantee and close to impossible.

Once aluminum weakens and distorts, it is very difficult to be brought back to life and I am not convinced the ARP studs can straighten it once it has reached this point.

I believe that the function of the ARP studs is mostly a preventative measure, installed prior to any head gasket failure, using their clamping force to keep the aluminum flat under high heat and continuing to hold it there during cool down. Once aluminum begins to fail and cools distorted in place, it may have reached a point of no return.

That is why I plan to install the ARP studs at TBelt replacement time, and before any warpage has a chance to begin.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Thu Jan 03, 2013 6:15 am

I'm all for being pro-active too especially with regard to vehicle maintenance.

Maybe I missed it, has there been a definitive answer/part number assigned to a stud/nut combo for our Italian Mistress' mill?

Thanks for the info.

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Jan 03, 2013 7:10 am

Hoosier CRD wrote:

I'm all for being pro-active too especially with regard to vehicle maintenance.

Maybe I missed it, has there been a definitive answer/part number assigned to a stud/nut combo for our Italian Mistress' mill?

Thanks for the info.

LMW covered that in his ARP stud write up, I'd look here, viewtopic.php?f=5&t=65524

Greasey Bob · **Joined:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:34 am **Posts:** 228

I will change mine with my next timing belt change assuming it is still running good at 200k miles. I do not see why it would not.

user113 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 10, 2013 9:11 pm

From what LMW wrote, you will probably need to replace your rocker arms at that point too, so, why not do the studs? I am going to be doing something about mine probably sooner rather than later (but I still have warranty coverage until June 2013).

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:39 am

user113 wrote:

From what LMW wrote, you will probably need to replace your rocker arms at that point too, so, why not do the studs? I am going to be doing something about mine probably sooner rather than later (but I still have warranty coverage until June 2013).

Keep in mind that 79 of the 90k miles were with the PO, and I have no way to know whether he maintained it properly, so I cannot present my experience as definitive. OTOH, the turbo looks original and there is no endshake or sideplay on that at all. My suggestion would be to check the rockers when you do the WP. If, as I plan to do, you change the TB at 60 k miles and the WP, tensioner and idler at 120K, that means a rocker check every 120K.

ARP Studs

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