torqueconverter1.com... anybody ever use?

cgwarrant · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 7:24 pm

I am looking at purchasing an upgraded TC to swap out the OEM and wanted to know if anyone had ever heard of this company. They are out of Cali and found them on ebay. Quoted me $165 for a rebuilt Libby diesel HD unit plus shipping. Pretty good price, supposedly Euro spec. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:14 pm

Ask what they do when they rebuild. If all they do is throw in the larger dampener springs to transform the old stock TC into a EURO configuration and replace the fried parts, you are not much better off.
Rebuilds can range from sub standard to stock to what Suncoast puts together.
Check out their reputation in some other forums, see what you come up with.

canlib · **Posted:** Thu Apr 26, 2012 1:51 pm

After reading this post

LIBERTYinLIBERTY wrote:

Rebuilt TC from http://www.torqueconverter1.com/Home.html and the Part # I used was the 68037142AA, Their part # is 600H, that list it for the 545RFE.they have a few rebuilt ones on hand for $125.00 + $20.00 shipping. 1 year warranty. Same day shipping, USPS received it 2nd day...
:BANANA:

and calling for more info, I ordered from these folks. I expressed concern about the ability to handle the Hot Tune and they sold me the 600SH with extra heavy springs. I'm guessing after this long in the market, all rebuilt TC's are eurospec since that is the Chrysler standard.

I just installed the ECM and TCM yesterday so I haven't had a lot of time to test drive, but so far I am totally pleased!

cgwarrant · **Posted:** Thu Apr 26, 2012 2:07 pm

Thanks for the input canlib. I'll take a look at the link/post. That's the same part number they gave me.

Found them in a few boards. Their website says they machine all surfaces, balance, etc. Quote "All parts in our torque converters are modified to exceed OEM standard! Impeller Hubs, Turbine Hubs, O-Ring, Seals, Bearing, Races,
Thrust Washers, Stator Caps, Springs, Ring Gears, Lockup Cluthes, Lockup Lining, Bushing, and Front Cover." Has a 1 year replacement warranty (no, does not include labor). Says they've been in business in So Cal since 1983 and they have overwhelmingly positive ratings from what I have found (ebay, hotrodders.com, others...). I'm thinking it could be a good thing!

dksmj73 · **Joined:** Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:34 pm **Posts:** 14

I sent for a quote from them on a heavy duty converter. The specs i sent was for a 1200 rpm stahl and that it would get 295 ft/lbs torque at 1800 rpm (i no it is 260 ) and i want it to be able to hold upto 330 at same rpm range incase i add tune. I also stated that i wanted heavy duty springs. The quote they sent me was for 185 plus 20 shipping part number 600lsp they call it their updated heavy duty torque converter. I really would like to know how good these guys are because this sounds to good to be true and if anybody thinks 1200 stahl is to low. Does anybody think my stated torque might not be a good idea since gde limits torque at 270 durring full lock up my thoughts were if it can hold 330 it wont have any problem with 270 i just wanted to make sure it was strong enough to hold up.

canlib · **Posted:** Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:32 pm

I've had a chance to test drive and there are no problems. The new tunes pull strong and steady :BANANA:

dksmj73 · **Joined:** Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:34 pm **Posts:** 14

What part number did you get is it the same 600lsp or is it different I realy think a lower stahl would help mpg and power transfer.

Glend · **Posted:** Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:28 am

I just received a quote from them to ship one to Australia, but the part number they gave me for their Heavy Duty Torque Converter was 600SP and quoted at $165 USD plus shipping. What's the difference in part numbers?

dksmj73 · **Joined:** Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:34 pm **Posts:** 14

600slp is low stall 600shspeed is factory stall dont no what 600sp is. Send them an email and ask they answered my email back before i could even set my smart phone down from sending question i thought i was dealing with jimmy johns freaky fast.

Glend · **Posted:** Wed May 02, 2012 10:37 pm

Talked to Johnny, the 600SP is heavy duty torque converter. He steered me clear of the 600SH saying ti was for the US domestic market (stock tune). I referred Johnny to the GDE performance data webpage and he assures me that "Our HD unit will handle your 335 ft/lbs of torque". On that basis, and their relatively low price (even with the shipping to Oz) I have gone ahead and ordered and Johnny advised this morning that he's shipped it. So we will see.

BTW, is a torque converter swap on a 545RFE transmission a DIY job, I'm pretty good with working on the KJ and have the tools?

click23 · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 9:22 am **Posts:** 309

Anyone else besides canlib used one?

canlib, everything still good with yours, were you having shutter problems before, if so are they gone? I am really interested in this, just hope its a price (long term) that is not too good to be true.

Glend · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2012 7:24 pm

My 600SP HD has arrived and I hope to install it over the weekend - then I'll give it a test.

littlebiggin · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2012 7:59 am

Please let us know how this all pans out. Would love for this to be a cheap alternative to allow us to get a GDE hot tune with no shutter =)

woodtick · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2012 9:28 am

dksmj73 wrote:

I sent for a quote from them on a heavy duty converter. The specs i sent was for a 1200 rpm stahl and that it would get 295 ft/lbs torque at 1800 rpm (i no it is 260 ) and i want it to be able to hold upto 330 at same rpm range incase i add tune. I also stated that i wanted heavy duty springs. .

What is the factory RPM stall speed? Will this actually help mileage/ drive-ability?

I've run the obstinate course with Chrysler and the F.U.-37 :banghead:

torque converter recall games on my last Jeep and I have no interest in going that route again. This sounds like it could be an awesome alternative. :pepper:

I'm suscribing to this thread to hear your results.

woodtick · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2012 9:31 am

Glend wrote:

My 600SP HD has arrived and I hope to install it over the weekend - then I'll give it a test.

Please take photos and do a write up on the install.

I'd sure appreciate it, and I'm sure others would too.

Glend · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2012 5:53 pm

woodtick wrote:

Glend wrote:

My 600SP HD has arrived and I hope to install it over the weekend - then I'll give it a test.

Please take photos and do a write up on the install.

I'd sure appreciate it, and I'm sure others would too.

Ha Ha,

I am sure you would, as I would have as well before I started. The problem with writing this stuff up is that it adds considerably to the time required, especially on long jobs like this; and then there is the time to upload the many photos and assemble it all into a set of steps and hints. I will give whatever advice I can. I am two days (6 hr days) into the TC replacement and have just got to the point where I can put the new converter in. GDE have a 23 step process described on their Forum but it leaves out some important information. For example, on the late model CRDs with the oil filter at the bottom of the engine in the back - it has to be removed or the transmission will take it off for you. Secondly, the transmission cooler lines will have to be removed they are just not long enough to allow clearance to remove the converter. The transmission bolt removal process is helped significantly if you have the right tools. Don't try this yourself unless you have a comprehensive tool set including good sockets of various depths, uni-joints and extension shafts. Have someone to help out of you can as this is a harder job for just one person, and it will go faster with help. Have to have a transmission jack but make sure it fits your floor jack before you buy it - I had to modify the saddle shaft on mine. More later.

Glend · **Posted:** Tue May 15, 2012 3:08 am

My new converter (600SP) is installed and working just fine. I did some test drives today including some low rpm hill climbs and accelerating up hill from low rpm and I can't get it to shudder - so mission accomplished. Hell of a job to install it though.

Chamba · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2012 12:23 am

Hi Guys,

My '06 CRD has never had the factory recall done to it for the torque converter ('t/c'), nor does it shudder with just-over 73000 miles on the clock.

I've just ordered a GDE Eco Tune for it which I will install in July when we move back to Santa Fe. I have two questions which I'd love your thoughts on:
1) If i take the rig in to have the recall done and a new t/c put in, would they install the Euro spec one or simply a new one and de-tune my engine? If they simply put a new standard one in and then I install the Eco Tune, can I expect it to develop a shudder fairly quickly?

2) Given my rig does not shudder now, is it a certainty that it will once the Eco Tune is pumping up torque?

Thanks for the posts on the t/c install. I may try to order the Euro t/c and then see if the dealer will install it in lieu of the factory one as part of the recall...assuming they will still do my recall. Otherwise I will have it done as I don't have time to do an install this involved.

Cheers,

Josh

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2012 8:47 am

The F-37 consisted of the engine de-tune by reprogramming the ECU and a TCM programming that set new shift points. It did not include a new torque convertor unless signs of TC failure were observed. At what speed does you tranny final shift occur? If it's ca. 57-58 mph then you have a pre-F-37 TCM (IMHO keep that away from dealer reprogramming) but if it's ca. 62-63mph the F-37 TCM reprogramming has occured.

So the answer to #1 is if you take it in for the F-37, assuming per above it has not been done, you will get the respective de-tunes and, since your TC appears to be fine, you will not get a new TC. For the purpose of discussion if you did get a new TC under the F-37 it would be the standard one (not the 1s gen one as on early 05s with the plastic part but rather the 2n gen one installed at the factory). It would not be the Euro although IIRC some were able to get the Euro installed under F-37 if they agreed to pay for the Euro while the F-37 covered the labor (this only happened if the TC otherwise needed replacement under F-37). IMHO don't go in for the F-37 but if you do then do so before installing the GDE tune.

The GDE EcoTune will NOT cause any problems for the stock 06 TC. IMHO just install the EcoTune and drive. If in the future you have TC problems then and only then replace the TC with the Euro or SunCoast of the CA one that's recently been discussed. Lots of folks out there driving the stock TC with the EcoTune. Now if you go with the GDE HotTune or the GDE Stage II turbo you will need a TC upgrade; I have a SunCoast because I installed the GDE Stage II turbo but drove for a couple of years with the EcoTune on a stock TC with no problems at all. In fact SunCoast said at 45K miles my tranny clutch packs still looked new and I never experienced shudder with the exception of the first hard acceleration after installing the turbo but before my SunCoast visit.

Chamba · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2012 8:53 pm

Hello Indigo,

Thank you for your thoughts. This is encouraging. I will have to take the rig out and see where the shift points are as per your email. I really don't know when it shifts off the top of my head; just that it does. It seems to me that shifts to 5th below 60MPH (pre P-37) but I am not certain. The vehicle is in our garage in Santa Fe right now so I'll have to check it when I get back in July.

I was worried that I could damage the auto box if the t/c started to shudder but it sounds like that's not a concern. I'm learning all about this CRD and am very grateful for this site.

No GDE Stage II turbo yet but perhaps in the future. My goal for now is to simply get the best fuel economy I can get out fo the rig. I am very happy with the power the rig has right now so any added power will simply be a bonus. What I would be keen to do one day is to put a solid front axle under the rig to improve the off road ability. I'm not sure how do-able that is, but it seems that a Wrangler axle would be a good donor. Plenty of time for that though. For now I plan to clean up the intake of the rig and get it as reliable as possible/replace all fluids with synthetic.

Josh

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