800+ miles so far since the TB, HG and rockers change, she is runnng pretty nice. I do have a few concerns. First off, on my first tank, I calculated the MPG based on the trip OD, I was in 20.5 MPG range. Mixed street and hwy driving. The second tank, even worse, 18.5 Mpg! Again, combined city/hwy driving. I never saw any leaks unitl i filled it up the last time. At the pump, when I finshed filling her up, i saw a puddle under the tank. It did not leak from the filler neck, rather there was a fuel trace on the back side of the tank, slightly to the left from the center, looking from the back. Again, never saw any other leaks after, just that time when I filled the tank up.

Things I noticed. One, every one in a while (1 in 4-5 times) i notice that after I release the brake pedal from the take off, I get a little clunk and a thud, kinda like either one or two calipers release a second later, or there is some play in the driveline. I read earlier that there were issues with sticky brakes, but can't find those posting for the life of me.

Two, if I open it up a little, I hear a sound that is kind of hard to describe, but almost like a shudder. Could this be the TC?

Third, if I am doing anout 65-70 and take a slight left only turn, I hear a faint rattle from what to me sounds like rear left area. Not sure what this is.

I bought the libby broken, not running, so I have no idea what it was running like before all the engine work I have done. From what I've read so far, my MPG should be better, the low fuel light comes on at 350 miles from full.

Help?

Forgot to mention, no mods done yet, other then MAF is unplugged and that is the only code reporting.

Before I got the GDE tune, something like 20.5mpg in mixed driving was pretty typical, and on a tank of short trips I did see 19mpg. Hand-calculated, all stock, 225/75/16 tires. Since the tune, even with 245/70/16 AT tires I've never seen below 21, and more often mid-20's. The leak probably isn't impacting your mileage all that much.

But since the tank's plastic, it's completely possible there's a crack someplace and should be repaired. And if you're taking the tank out anyway, it might be a good time to install an in-tank lift pump while you're at it. http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/

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SmokyCA
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2006 CRD, GDE Ecotune

Comments:
1. MPG - without a GDE tune but with stock size tires 18-19 for in town (not winter, some AC, average speed ca. 25mph) and 27hwy (same but speed ca. 65mph) with mixed mpg being closer to one figure or the other depending on the mix. Absent filling to visible unfoamed fuel in filler neck I would not put too much stock on the mpg based on a single fill especially if the distance between fills was relatively short.
2. fuel leak - I doubt the tank itself has a problem but that location suggests maybe a leak in one of the quick disconnect fittings on top of the tank (certainly possible) or the gasket for the fuel gauge (somewhat less likely)
3. clunk associated with brakes - the rubber boot on the front brakes can swell and cause the brakes to stick and drag which can impact mpg. Also could be a) "U" joints which really cannot be properly inspected without dropping drive shaft or b) the drive shaft slip joint needs greasing.
4. shudder like noise. My experience with TC shudder (induced by Stage II turbo power run) is you feel it more than hear it. Does noise stop when you back off go pedal? Have you checked the turbo impeller for play where the air filter to turbo pipe connects?
5. rear noise - check control arm bushings, bushing on wishbone shaped suspension member above differential, and wheel bearings.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

i had the same clunk at takeoff after a short delay. the cv joint on the front drive shaft at the transfer case was loose (no grease) figured that out when the joint blew apart and i removed the whole drive shaft it didnt do it anymore. you can go on ebay and they sell a replacement cv joint for the drive shaft. it comes off with a clip under the cover. 60 dollars for the joint compared to 300 for the front prop or drive shaft

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05 CRD Limited, SEGR Kit, EHM, Selectrack Alpine DVD, 6000k HID headlights, Aux Lift Pump, 2.5" straight pipe, Diablo Extreme Puck, Euro converter
02 SLT Cummins H.O. 6spd manual with southbend 3850dd, fass 150hd, ddp 150hp injectors, arp studs, adrenaline stacked w smarty, traction bars, 6 inch stacks, level kit, bhaf