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Engine Stand for 2.8 CRD (was "Question about engine stands"
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74579		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  R2.0 [ Tue Mar 19, 2013 2:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Engine Stand for 2.8 CRD (was "Question about engine stands"
[Pictures and writeup posted below]

So this past Sunday I *finally* got the engine out from my 06 (sorry about "96", brain crash). I'm scratching my head a bit on how to mount it on the stand. At the rear of the block is the aluminum adaptor ring that bolts to the block and the transmission. Is this what I should bolt to? I'm not real thrilled with the idea of letting 600# cantilever off an aluminum casting. I'm thinking I need to pull the flex plate and unbolt the adapter ring, but then the 4 available mounting points seem awfully low.

Any advice?

R2.0
Author:  Joe Romas [ Tue Mar 19, 2013 2:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Question about engine stands
Well I looked at your signature to see what jeep you have and or where you reside and you don't have your model or your location listed :?:

So we have no idea what engine or jeep your asking about but you wrote "96".

Since your posting in the CRD section you might not reside in North America and have a diesel in an 96 XJ. Or you did a typo and meant 06 instead and have a CRD. ??

I would not bolt it to the flex plate at any rate because I think it would bend.

Help us help you :JEEPIN:
Author:  R2.0 [ Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Question about engine stands
Whoops, thought I had that filled in.

06 Liberty CRD, a little over 70k, blew a turbo and may have run it out of oil. Ok, DID run it out of oil - ref http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=72874. I pulled the engine to check out the bottom end bearings, and while it's out change the timing belt.

I'm certainly not going to attach to the flex plate, but I need to remove it in order to take the adapter plate off and mount the engine stand directly to the ears on the cast iron block. Suffice it to say I'd rather not do that, but I'd like to see how others have mounted their engined on a stand.
Author:  LMWatBullRun [ Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Question about engine stands
Has anyone here pulled a motor and rebuilt it?
Author:  papaindigo [ Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Question about engine stands
I have not but I have a couple of pictures of the engine on a stand, unfortunately they are from the side and a bit forward. I can see that the relatively thin adapter plate immediately behind the engine is still in place but not much else. The only clear stand bolt I can see runs thru the hole on the passenger side where the flywheel locking pin goes.

I'm out the rest of the PM but can post pictures tomorrow if desired. Just drop me a pm or email.
Author:  Farm Boy [ Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:47 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Question about engine stands
Yes, you can hang it from the aluminum bell housing adaptor. I attached mine at three fairly even points and it worked fine. Pay attention to the threaded holes at the top, mine were SAE not metric.

Nathan
Author:  papaindigo [ Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:58 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Question about engine stands
I've posted a variety of engine pictures, see above comment, at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=74594 . Not my pictures but hopefully helpful for this and other topics where a picture is worth at least some words.
Author:  R2.0 [ Wed Mar 20, 2013 10:55 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Question about engine stands
Farm Boy wrote:
Yes, you can hang it from the aluminum bell housing adaptor. I attached mine at three fairly even points and it worked fine. Pay attention to the threaded holes at the top, mine were SAE not metric.

Nathan


Thanks. I got the flywheel off last night and took a good look. The flywheel housing (aluminum adaptor) is attached to the block by 6 bolts. They also look like decent mounting points for the engine stand, so I'm going to pull the housing and use those locations. I could leave the housing in place, but that would have the standoffs from the engine stand bearing on the aluminum. I could use washers, but since the bolts need to come out anyway, why leave it there?

It also just happens that the transmission-to-flywheel housing bolts are the correct length and thread for 4 of the holes. But you say the top ones are SAE size? Mine were socket head capscrew which took a 10mm hex key; I wonder if it was really 3/8".

Update: I tried mounting things yesterday, using the lower 4 bolt holes, but I was getting too much interference from the hub to make everything fit. So i decided to use the upper holes, and quickly found out that the bolts that secure the arms on the engine stand I'm using fit these holes. But I don't think the holes are SAE tapped - a little research shows that 7/16 SAE and M11x1.5 are almost exactly the same dimensions. Both diameter and thread pitch. Which is a good thing too, because 11mm is non standards and there's no way I'm going to find one at a local hardware store, nor a big box.

I'll try to post some pics when I get further along.
Author:  R2.0 [ Fri Mar 22, 2013 1:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Stand for 2.8 CRD (was "Question about engine sta
I finally got the parts I needed (or close to it) and got my engine up onto a stand. I did it a little differently, but I think it has some advantages.

I started by removing the aluminum transmission adapter. Previous poster's and pics show that it can be left on, but a) I wasn't comfortable with 600# cantilevering off a thin aluminum plate, and b) if I need to pull the crank it would be in the way. After pulling the adapter here's what it looks like:

Image

I decided to bring the mountain to Mohammed and mount the engine stand plate to the block while it was still on the dolly. This made it a LOT easier to mess around with location and configuration. Unfortunately I took this pic after I mounted 2 of the engine mount arms, but you can see the 6 holes available: 2 with the arms attached, 2 above, and 2 below. Also notice how they are not symmetrical - the passenger side middle hole is substantially outboard in relation to the others. Normally not a big deal EXCEPT that if you try to use these 4 holes you cannot center the engine stand plate - the left 2 arms interfere with each other. I tried.

There's another reason to use the upper holes as well - center of gravity. You want the center of rotation of the engine stand plate to be at about the same location as the CG of the engine, else it will try really hard to turn turtle. The CG looks to me to be about 2/3 the distance up from the bottom.

So here's how it looked after I mounted everything:

Image

As you can see, the bottom 2 arms are installed conventionally, but the top 2 are flipped so that the mounting bolt goes straight through the mounting plate. I could have used some other kind of spacer, but this now allows me to use the upper arms as lift points. The plate is also mounted higher, and just about clears the rear seal carrier. It also puts less stress on the upper 2 mounting bolts, which is important because:
a) The holes are tapped 11mm
b) 11mm bolts are apparently made from unobtanium (the adapter mounting bolts are too short). But here's a fun fact: the engine stand bolts are M11. :shock:
c) So I used 7/16x4" UNC bolts, which are *almost* the same dimensions as the 11mm threading, and
d) I don't like it. Not one bit. The bolt threaded in loose, and in tightening it just didn't feel right.

I'm not too worried, as most of the time the engine will be inverted which takes the tensile stress off those bolts. And I can put a jack under it while upright to take some of the load when I'm doing the timing belt and turbo work.

Here's a side view:

Image

The 7/16x4" bolts were about 3/4" too long, but I bought a LOT of washers as shims. You can also see the shackles mounted on the free end of the engine stand arms to assist with the lift...

Image

... which I wound up not using anyway. Lacking a spreader, the chain I had would have been at too tight an angle. Next item for shopping list: chain lift spreader. Also, pay no attention to what appears to be a cheap cargo strap used as a lifting sling - it's just an illusion. I picked the engine, and then mounted the engine stand to the plate instead of vice versa. The angles were a little wonky but judicious application of a blunt object got everything lined up, and TA-DA:

Image

It's pretty secure, and didn't seem to be stressing the stand much. After I took the pic I put a floor jack under the oil pan and took just a little of the stress off those upper bolts. It can stay that way until I get the turbo off.

As a side note, mounting the stand is a lot easier if you remove the rear EGR tube. I did so, and look what I found.

Image

Bleh. If I had any doubts about paying the money for a SEGR, this dispelled them.
Author:  LMWatBullRun [ Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Stand for 2.8 CRD (was "Question about engine sta
nice pics, R2.0; I will be doing something similar a little later on this year when the glaciers retreat. Thanks for posting.
Author:  tomasnc [ Sun Mar 24, 2013 5:35 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Stand for 2.8 CRD (was "Question about engine sta
That plugged EGR is amazing and you have 70K on yours. I can imagine mine with 133K.

Thank you for the pictures.
Author:  R2.0 [ Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine Stand for 2.8 CRD (was "Question about engine sta
Engine inverted:

Image

Image
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