OK. I will list all the stuff I have completed on my CRD and tell me if there is anything I've missed.

-GDE Hot Tune
-GDE Eco Trans Tune
-eTechno1 Steel Glow Plugs (found out already had steel plugs... oh well. $400 out the window)
-Suncoast TC
-New Fuel Filter head
-New Timing belt and everything else @ 59k miles (7+ years old - better be safe than sorry)
-New alternator
-New thermostat (now it actually runs at operating temp)
-New air filter
-Amsoil Full SAPS with Amsoil filter (changed twice in 7k miles)
-Amsoil ATF when converter was changed
-New serp belt, tensioners, and idle pullies
-New coolant, radiator, and heater core hoses

Is there anything I've missed?

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2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD (purchased 10/30/12 w/ 52k miles) GDE HotTune & Eco TCU, Suncoast TC, Amsoil Full SAPS (EFM) 5w40, Amsoil ATF, 7" touchscreen Android powered stereo (direct from China) w/ 4G LTE mobile data for streaming Netflix, HBO GO, Slingbox, Pandora, etc.

Turbocharger hoses? Fan clutch?

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
4 year MaxCare warranty, so completely stock

Yeah, the CAC hoses and the fresh air hose are likely-to-fail items that you may want to check; suggest Samco and Mother Mopar respectively.

Speaking of Amsoil, I like the Mid-SAPS, code AFL, 5W-40 more so than the Full SAPS due to the catalytic. 6,250 miles is a fine interval for changes, BTW. I have also used the Amsoil engine/trans flush on a few occasions to get any sludge out.

Have you also performed the EHM as described in the NOOB guide? Plug the elbow on the new fresh air hose with something; I use a #12 red cap for orifice blockage.

Had any occasion for an "Italian Tune-Up"? This keeps the variable veins in the exhaust side of the turbo from getting sticky. Make sure that you are up to operating temp. Have fun!

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FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

The fresh air hose (air box to turbo) has a tendency to split/tear on the bottom just in front of the turbo. Worth checking when you pull the turbo side CAC hose and while you are in there check turbo fan for movement (slight fore/aft is ok but should be no more than a bare hint of side to side). If the hose is solid no need to replace.

EHM might help that hose's life but with the GDE tune you don't really need to do the EHM to keep soot in the oil levels down.

Clean MAP sensor if not already done.

Fan clutch replacement would be a Hayden 2905 and while you are at it do a fan shroud mod for better access (viewtopic.php?f=98&t=64278&p=709322#p709322)

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

flush the brake system. This is one chore a lot of folks forget.
Right up to the first time you get hot brake fade, then you get religion
about brake fluid......

I like ATE racing blue and it's tan twin, ATE 200 Dot 4 brake fluid.
Not an owner or stockholder, just a happy customer.

One reason I like it is that I can run it for 18 months or so and have much less water in the brake fluid than regular Dot4. A related item is Speed Bleed brake bleeding screws; they allow you to
change the fluid without having to twist that bleed screw. Pretty slick.

Another thing to watch is your coolant levels. Any loss of coolant should be suspected as incipient HG failure UNLESS you can positively identify the leak location. This can happen if you overheat the head, say after a coolant flush where you were not religious about getting the air vented from the head. For that I think the sure cure is ARP studs, but it is a PITA to do unless you are doing your TB anyway. Ask RacerTracer about that for more information.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

Lift/tires/lockers/armor

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05 CRD Sport Dark Kahki

RRO: Adventure Rack/Rails ** MOPAR: Skids/Renny Flares & 255/75r17 (32.1) BFG M/T on JK wheels ** ARB: Bumper/IPF lights/790/948/shocks ** GDE: TCM/Hot Tune ** ROCKLIZARD: Super Sliders/Komodo Bumper

My Build Thread
US Army Infantry

You got an upgraded torque converter and you should be good to go for a long time!

The only thing I can think of is pulling intercooler and JB welding leaks that eventually pop up.

Let me try not to forget anyone here.



My first oil change the full SAPS was not available so I used the Mid. It burned quite a bit of it! Now out of all fairness it was my first change so the rings may have been still clogged with sludge from the oil the previous owner used. The second time around I used the Full-SAPS and it hasn't moved a bit on the dipstick.



I plan on installing Mr. Bob's hoses in the future. My hoses are still in good shape so I'm not too worried at this time. The fan clutch I wasn't aware of so I will look into that.



I did replace the fresh air hose between the airbox and turbo. I just forgot to list it. There was nothing wrong with my old hose but for $60 I just did it anyway. I haven't cleaned the MAP sensor yet. The entire intake needs a good cleaning since it is about 40% clogged so I will do that all at once. I wasn't going to do the EHM since I have the tune and I don't fill the sump past the halfway mark between MIN and MAX on the dipstick.



Your right! I think I have done this one time in ALL the vehicles I have owned! I will put it on the list.



I was mostly talking about drive train issues that are a known issue. I installed 5 new BFG Rugged Trail's in January. Went with a 245/70 16. Very happy with the ride comfort. I would love to Rock Lizard it out if they ever get back on track. But that is all way down the road.



Ah crap!!! This a new one to me. Is this really a problem?

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2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD (purchased 10/30/12 w/ 52k miles) GDE HotTune & Eco TCU, Suncoast TC, Amsoil Full SAPS (EFM) 5w40, Amsoil ATF, 7" touchscreen Android powered stereo (direct from China) w/ 4G LTE mobile data for streaming Netflix, HBO GO, Slingbox, Pandora, etc.

I think every thing is basically covered here maybe a parts CRD lol .....jokes apart you have accomplished a lot and best of luck for miles ahead enjoy the ride.

You should be good to go except for one minor item I forgot to mention.


I wouldn't think of driving further than a mile from my house without an upgraded Kuhneutson Valve. The following link has them for 20 bucks. Cheap insurance.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_pa ... ucts_id=47

Some folks here have an Amsoil oil bypass kit. I don't believe in them but this option is cheaper and keeps oil just as clean.
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_pa ... ucts_id=40

I looked into a bypass filter from Amsoil in the past for my TDI's and just decided to change the oil every 5k miles. It seems like cheap insurance to me rather than an extra contraption to break or leak.

I looked at the other device and am not familiar with what it does...

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

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2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD (purchased 10/30/12 w/ 52k miles) GDE HotTune & Eco TCU, Suncoast TC, Amsoil Full SAPS (EFM) 5w40, Amsoil ATF, 7" touchscreen Android powered stereo (direct from China) w/ 4G LTE mobile data for streaming Netflix, HBO GO, Slingbox, Pandora, etc.