So I got the engine inverted (ref http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74579) and pulled the oil pan. I won't go into the state of the oil (it's not good). The rod bolts for cylinder 1 are easily accessible without pulling the balanced shaft assembly. The bolts for #4 are a little bit more tight but can be gotten. I decided to pull a bearing first to see what I may be in for.

First, the rod bolts have an external Torx head. Supposedly they can be removed with a regular 6 point socket, but I went and bought the correct socket. Glad I did - they were tight.



The bolts are M10x1.5x48 UHL, grade 10.9, "RIBE" marked on the head. I'm really wondering about the direction to use new bolts. They are not stretch bolts. on the other hand they are cheap.



The bearings are aluminum shells with no oiling holes.

















They have normal wear per http://www.agkits.com/bearing-failure-analysis.aspx. (http://catalog.mahleclevite.com/bearing/ is also a great resource)



My only 2 concerns are some very light scoring, which doesn't catch a finger nail, and one little spot which may have been a handling issue on my part. I'm going to get some crocus cloth and see if they will clean up. and yes I did mark which one was on the cap and which was on the rod.

Before I go any farther I want to clean out the engine a bit. This will consist of putting the bearing back with the original bolts #temporarily# and put the oil pan back on. Then I will get the engine upright and fill the sump with kerosene. Pull the glow plus for compression relief and spin the engine manually to get the solvent circulating. One idea I had was to use an air ratchet on the bolt on the crank nose. Do this for a few minutes, drain, fill with clean, repeat. Keep doing it until the kero comes out clear or close to it. I can use as much as I need to; the waste can go in the fuel oil tank for the boiler.

After that, open her back up and pull #4 rod bearing. If that is in good shape too, torque everything back down with 4 new rod bolts and move on to the timing belt replacement. If it is more damaged, replace all 4 bearings with new.

Comments and constructive criticism welcome; Pics posted

R2.0

_________________
06 Liberty CRD, Alive, Stant inline tstat
97 Passat TDI, also down
02 Golf TDI - gone, wife killed it

I always used diesel instead of Kerosene and also always put a magnet into the bottom of the pan I drained into to catch any questionable metal particles. Also I would use a large breaker bar or ratchet to turn the motor over. Also I would make sure to run cheap oil through it at least twice after doing a full flush like that to get all of the kerosene out and the oil back in the proper places.

_________________
My CRD Build Thread
Soon to Come:more lights

It was probably going to wind up being diesel since kero is a bit hard to find around here.com so it's good to hear others have used it. Good call on the oil though, I hadn't thought of that.

Why the breaker bar, though? That was what I was thinking first, but I was hoping the air ratchet could automate it a bit.

_________________
06 Liberty CRD, Alive, Stant inline tstat
97 Passat TDI, also down
02 Golf TDI - gone, wife killed it

Where in MD are you? Around me, gas stations have kerosene pumps.

_________________
2005 Liberty Renegade, Bright Silver Metallic

Closest kerosene is in Rockville, about 20 miles away. I can walk to a station with diesel.

_________________
06 Liberty CRD, Alive, Stant inline tstat
97 Passat TDI, also down
02 Golf TDI - gone, wife killed it

Ahhh...gotcha.

_________________
2005 Liberty Renegade, Bright Silver Metallic

Because with the breaker bar or large ratchet you will be able to feel any catches or issues. Where with the air wrench you could have and issue and never feel it and believe me it could get messy. And the oil is from a past bad experience that fried a set of rings.

_________________
My CRD Build Thread
Soon to Come:more lights

Excellent point.I'll do it with the breaker bar.

_________________
06 Liberty CRD, Alive, Stant inline tstat
97 Passat TDI, also down
02 Golf TDI - gone, wife killed it

Pics posted

_________________
06 Liberty CRD, Alive, Stant inline tstat
97 Passat TDI, also down
02 Golf TDI - gone, wife killed it

The bearings are in good shape. Why the full tear down? Did you have concerns of metal in the oil pan?

_________________
Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Not a full teardown yet - that was just 1 bearing.

My turbo went south but I wasn't aware of it - it was the exhaust seal and I couldn't see the plumes of oil smoke because I was driving on back roads late at night. Oil light came on within about 3 blocks of home. Given Geordi's experience with block ventilation I didn't want to fire it up again until I had done some checking. I could have pulled the bearings with the engine in the car, but that procedure was almost as bad as pulling the engine, and if the bearings WERE bad I'd need to pull it anyway. So I figured to pull it, check bearings, change turbo, replace TB, and pull EGR all while out.

That bearing was #1, the one that is easiest to get too. I'll probably also pull the #4, as I think I can get to that one too without pulling the balance shafts. If they are both clean, I figure Rod bearings 2 and 3 and the crank bearings are likely in good shape as well.

_________________
06 Liberty CRD, Alive, Stant inline tstat
97 Passat TDI, also down
02 Golf TDI - gone, wife killed it

Did you already purchase a new turbo? If not, I have a new one for $800 plus shipping.

Good luck and hope it goes back together well.

_________________
Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Bought a used one, a dealer replacement with only a few K miles until there was another engine failure. It should work, but if it has issues I'll give you a call for a replacement.

_________________
06 Liberty CRD, Alive, Stant inline tstat
97 Passat TDI, also down
02 Golf TDI - gone, wife killed it