I just replaced water pump/timing belt. I want to make sure everything is good before completely reassembling everything. If a temporarily hook up the hoses to the intercooler can I start the engine without the radiator, timing belt cover, and serpentine system in place? I know water/antifreeze will spray everywhere. But that shouldn't cause any problems. If the timing belt is off by one tooth will that cause engine damage or will it just not start?

Based on my very recent experience, I would suggest rotating by hand many times and obsessively checking that the crank mark is EXACTLY at 3 o'clock when ALL the pins are in and also that the pump pulley marks line up. It is easy to make a mistake with the flywheel pin, particularly with the VM pin. Use a drill bit that is slightly smaller so you can wiggle it around and make sure you have the right hole.

However, you can run the motor without the cover, serpentine belt and pulleys in place. Make SURE that there is NOTHING that the turbo can suck in and that all the plugs are in place.

Good Luck!

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

I dont think the crank mark was at three when the pins were in. From other posts and guides I have read the pins only go in when the cams are in a certain posiiton. But the crank mark was more like 5 o clock. I guess as long as everything is in the same position as when you took the original belt off it should nt matter?

My understanding is that the crank mark MUST be at exactly 3 o'clock with ALL the pins in. 5 o'clock would be at least two teeth off, maybe more and may be enough to cause the pistons to hit the valves!

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

This is a long story but I had this job done before. My water pump broke where the viscous bolts to it. I had someone else do the timing belt/water pump previously. According to him the cam gears don't really matter what position their in as long as the cam shafts stay in place. When I was doing this job I noticed that the markings on my cam gears were different than some pictures in a guide. How can I ensure everything is in time if those marks are diff? My jeep ran fine after he did the job. He just might not havwe put the gears in the exact same position. I noticed with the gears off that the cam shafts have key markings on them. Can those be used for timing?

The cams have no woodruff keys, so their position relative to the gears is meaningless. Again, MUST be done with flywheel and cam pins, plus mark on front of crank at 3 o'clock.

The reason you mark the cams gears relative to the case is so when you have it all back together and remove the pins, you can make sure everything still lines up perfectly after several rotations by hand. If you did not follow Sam's tips properly to get all the slack out, you may have to fiddle with it a few times so you are not a tooth off here or there.

Again, good luck! (Very nerve wracking..........)

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

If you have the VM.1052, VM.1053, and VM.1089 all inserted properly then it is in time.

Pay no attention to any marks of any kind, if all 3 pins are in then the vehicle is in time, period.

You can move the fuel pump around to the witness marks, that is fine but you'll probably just be better served not messing with it and moving it around.

Ensure all 3 pins are in place and the belt has no slack from the fuel pump to the crank. (That's the most common area)

Put a breaker bar / big ratchet on the crank and rotate the engine to ensure there's no interference.

When you can spin the crank 3/6/9 times and the pins go back in by hand every time, then it's in time.

Yes, it is safe to start it up and run it for a short time without the coolant/intercooler/hoses in place, but verify everything is right like previously mentioned.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

The problem with the VM flywheel tool is that unless you clean out the threads in the bell housing with the correct metric thread chaser, something few people have, you do not get it far enough in the hole. So, it is a good idea to use a longer pin, such as a drill bit to be sure.

Also, I do not understand how the flywheel pin can be in correctly and the mark on the front of the crank be at anything but 3 o'clock.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

I've got the full set of Miller tools and will concur that the Miller flywheel pin is threaded and essentially impossible to use unless the housing threads are clean and that some folks use a drill bit instead. However, it's important to 1) be positive you actually hit the valid hole in the flywheel (tapping around that hole can be done to ensure that you are in a small hole not a flywheel cutout but it cannot be done with the Miller tool) and 2) being sure the "pin" used is in straight which is IMHO not possible with a drill bit. If you are using an alternative tool for the flywheel pin I'd recommend looking at the 05 FSM for how to with a long Allen Key as it can be used to probe for the right hole and the short end of the key is ideal for making sure it's in there straight.

I agree with Doc that the bolt holes in the crank should be in the proper location and that the "dimple" next to one of those holes at 3 o'clock. Going way out on a limb the only reason that I can think of where that might???? not be the case would be if someone dropped the tranny/TC/flywheel and reinstalled the flywheel 1 bolt "off" and I don't know if that's even possible.

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It can't, and that's the point I was making.



I did not use the Miller tools, I will admit.

I used the Sealey set. I blew out the threads where the VM.1089 equivalent inserts with some PB'Laster and it threaded right into the proper hole and through locking things in place. I actually had it 180 degrees off the first time and had to remove the locking pins and rotate the crank 180 degrees. I'm not sure if there's a difference between the Miller and the Sealey, but mine went right in and I was shocked because so many had said (and are still saying) that they were hard to thread in, threads were "MUNGED UP" etc.

I can tell you though, in the Sealey tools (and maybe this is an improvement THEY MADE, because it is developed overseas for these when they were still being sold) you cannot even start the threads until after the tool is through the flex plate.

I.E. You aren't even AT the threads to start screwing the tool into place until the pin is through the hole in the flex plate.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

I have been using a drill bit. The bit is going into the hole like 3 inches. Then I can't move the crank anymore. Maybe a couple degrees to either side. Is it possible the bit is not going into the fly wheel? I checked the intake cam. I felt around with a small screwdriver. It's definitely the right spot. If the belt was off by one tooth and the intake is in the right spot can you get a drill bit in? What position should the bolts be in? It's hard to tell but looking at the pictures in the guide the top bolt on the crank does not look to be right at 12 o'clock. It's more like 1 o'clock. Which is how mine looks. If the dimple is right next to the next bolt clock wise ( I've put stuff back together and can't tell) then that wouldn't be 3 o'clock but more like 4.

So, with the drill bit inserted in the bell housing such that you are then unable to rotate the crank other than very slightly in either direction, what clock position is the little groove on the front of the crank?

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

I don't know exactly now. I put the cover and whole serpentine system back together now. I'll have to check later after work. Like I said though the top bolt is at 1 o clock. I remember the dimple being clock wise from that. Where exactly in relation to the bolts I dunno. Is there a clear picture somewhere? Looking at the pics of the cam shafts(not gears) in the guide, I remember them looking like that. Both marks facing each other.

Go to http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/72.page and download a copy of GDE's TB instructions; scroll down to the bottom image on page 10 for the position of the crank bolt holes and you can zoom in and see the dimple at 3 o'clock.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs