Does anyone know the correct sequence for replacing the brake fluid in both a Liberty CRD and a Grand Cherokee? Both are 2006 models with approximately 60,000 miles showing and never had brake fluid changed. I ask because I read recently that some manufacturers describe a sequence such as left rear first, then left front, then right rear, then right front and am interested whether Jeep/Chrysler/Benz has such recommended sequence.
Thanks

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2006 GC Lar 4.7L V8 Stock
2006 CRD Liberty: substitute Provent; SEGR

Generally for automobiles, you start with the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way closer. At least that is what I have been told, not sure why they are suppose to be bled that way.

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Phil
2005 131k 3.7 Gasser (Lifted-CRD Springs, 4.10 Gears, F+R DTT, Teraflex 2wd Low, Skidrow/Mopar Skids, Rock Lizard Super Skinks, Goodyear Wrangler Authority 31x10.5-15)
2012 Triumph Tiger (TKC 80 Front Tire Heidnau K60 Rear, Crash Bars, Skid Plate, Bark Busters, Pelican Case Top Box)

Per FSM Right Rear Wheel; Left Rear Wheel; Right Front Wheel; and Left Front Wheel. Pretty standard to start from the brake furthest from master cylinder and work closer. Speed Bleeders are handy.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

This is preventative maintanence that I have been doing on my vehicles for several years with good results.
I remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir with a clean turkey baster, then starting with a new quart of brake fluid, I refill and bleed the system as described above until I use up the entire quart of new brake fluid.
Another tip is to open the bleed when compressing the caliper pistons during pad changes to prevent backflow of old fluid into the ABS.

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

Motive Pressure Bleeder. You can make your own from a chemical sprayer available at Wal-Mart for much less.

FYI, Motive model 0103 bleeder kit is the one that fits the KJ (and JK and some other late model chryslers) and adapter 1103 is what you need if you already have another Motive model.

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

You can get the power bleeder for 70 shipped with the attachment for out jeep already on it. plus all you have to do is buy the proper attachments and you can do almost any make/model. And the reason they say start with the furthest wheel from the Master cylinder is because if you dont it will take twice as long to get all the bad fuild and air out.

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