I've been starting the CRD up lately and noticing some white exhaust for a short time when it starts. It seems to clear up, but I have started having low antifreeze levels which make me think the head gasket is going.

We are sitting at about 140K (wonderful) miles on the CRD - continues to be a fun and durable vehicle. However, I need some advice on what the best course of action might be now (before the head gasket has a more dramatic failure).

Just a couple of questions:
1) Does the head gasket replacement replacement require VM Motori special tools?
2) Is this something to trust the dealership with?
3) Would there be anyone in the Indianapolis area (or along I-70 corridor going west) that you would recommend work on this?

Thanks for any help you can offer. LOST has certainly guided me well in the past.

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Steel Blue 07 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD
Mopar Skid Plates/GDE Programmer/Fumoto Oil Valve
80K+ miles & still smiling

Sold: Silver 06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD

I am friends with (Step Dad works there) the mechanic at the dealership in Franklin, IN which isn't too far from you. The guy there is pretty solid and does work on them, he has the full VM.9599 set and has done timing belts/heads/rockers/lifters before.

You're looking at dealer prices, but yeah he's solid, rock solid in fact.

I'm originally from Martinsville, IN.

Yes, you're going to need a few tools, but nothing you couldn't obtain for a few dollars if you wanted to own them.

Let me know and I"ll PM you my phone # and some contact information for the guy there at the Chrysler Dealership.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

1) yes

2) if you have a dealer experienced with the CRD, with good references, it might be worth considering. I suggest you consider ARP studs, as the factory 'TTY' head bolts are a flawed design. Look at the ARP stud thread for details. I cured what appeared to be an internal leak with one by one replacement of the head bolts with no HG replacement,

3) no information.

I would not wait to proceed with this work. do it as soon as possible.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

Hi LMWatBullRun,

Thank you for your response and the additional information. Based on what I read in the thread, it seems that the internal leak (what I appear to have) may be solved with the better torquing down that that ARP Studs provide. Am I understanding this right?

Thanks again for your advice!

_________________
Steel Blue 07 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD
Mopar Skid Plates/GDE Programmer/Fumoto Oil Valve
80K+ miles & still smiling

Sold: Silver 06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD

ARP studs are strong enough to crush fit the head to the block, and provide significantly more clamping surface via hardened washers than the factory 'TTY' bolts. I would not exceed 125 or 130 fpt for the interior studs, or 120 for the exterior.

_________________
Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel