Vm 1052 vm 1053

CRD05il · **Posted:** Thu Jun 20, 2013 7:39 pm

Dose anyone have the locking pin that they would like to sell? I would real like to buy them here from someone who doesn't need them anymore. I remember someone say they would seller there's bit don't remember who. I have two timing belts to do.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Jun 20, 2013 9:12 pm

Do you have the cam clamp? I don't know the VM number, but I have the genuine articles. Since I have done enough timing belts now to know what to look / feel for... I might be persuaded to sell the complete timing tool set.

I have all three pins, which are for the both cams and the crankshaft, and the VM cam gear locking tool.

PM me if you are interested, and we can discuss numbers.

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Jun 21, 2013 8:58 am

VM.1085 is the cam gear locking tool.

VM.1089 is the flywheel pin.

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Tree Catcher · **Posted:** Sat Jun 22, 2013 12:11 am

Does anyone have prints for the tools, I have access to a, err work in a machine shop

I have a Timing belt in my future and would rather have someone else do it but would tackle the job with the tools.

Sean

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jun 22, 2013 7:45 am

There are pictures of the Miller tools linked to Sam's NOOB guide; I've posted some dimensions for the cam pins in the CRD tech section; you can use a long 6mm Allen wrench for the flywheel pin (see how to in the 05 FSM); and there are alternatives to the cam gear holding tool (see for example http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html)

truckbouy2 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 22, 2013 10:45 am

"Does anyone have prints for the tools, I have access to a, err work in a machine shop"

No government work on company time. :roll:

Auberon · **Posted:** Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:20 am

I was able to machine them from that earlier post by Papa. THANK YOU PAPA! Made different heads for them but they seem to work well enough.
Cap screw is hard going for machining I would suggest, if you have the knowledge, using silver steel as we call it or I think you chaps call it drill rod but it would need heat treating after that.
Can forward more machining notes if required and probably the sketches if I can work out how to upload them to the forum.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jun 23, 2013 11:31 am

You shouldn't need to worry about heat treating simple mild steel (or tool steel) if you are just making the alignment pins. They are NOT FOR TORQUE and can actually cause severe damage to the valve cover and cams if you do try to make them hold against the cam bolt torque.

One of the cams in my valve cover was chipped, and the threads were not good - evidence that the mechanic who replaced my engine did not listen to my instructions. (no surprise there)

I will attempt to get the VM1085 cam clamp scanned by a 3-D laser scanner in the next few days, so that anyone that has access to a CNC (whether on company time or not) :wink:

might be able to re-make them.

Auberon · **Posted:** Sun Jun 23, 2013 11:03 pm

I totally agree geordi. I guess I am trying to cover all bases. You would hope this isn't necessary but it would certainly stop the nicks and dings that many tools acquire in boxes if they are left soft. I suggested some heat treatable material so the tool doesn't need a remake with age -also trying to cover the bases of end user touch - more for longevity than in shear. Not everyone has access to Hardite or the like for putting a skin on MS.
I even knurled the tops of the heads to increase sensitivity. You can actually feel them engage sweetly with the fingers when all is aligned correctly....no spanners needed.

Indeed I want to preserve my threads - mine are virgin - the caps have only been out to verify the thread pitch and diameter to my touch. That's why I ran the start in the lathe for true which in itself is also probably over the top.

Interesting point on this- the threads are quite a neat fit with a high degree of engagement for what they do so there is not a lot of scope for misalignment in my view for lining up. I'd like to keep them that way.
Cheers.

R2.0 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 28, 2013 2:09 pm

geordi wrote:

You shouldn't need to worry about heat treating simple mild steel (or tool steel) if you are just making the alignment pins. They are NOT FOR TORQUE and can actually cause severe damage to the valve cover and cams if you do try to make them hold against the cam bolt torque.

One of the cams in my valve cover was chipped, and the threads were not good - evidence that the mechanic who replaced my engine did not listen to my instructions. (no surprise there)

I will attempt to get the VM1085 cam clamp scanned by a 3-D laser scanner in the next few days, so that anyone that has access to a CNC (whether on company time or not) :wink:

might be able to re-make them.

I recently purchased a small lathe and was thinking about making the pins as a first project - buy some 8.8 metric bolts to fit the threads and turn down the end to size. Now I'm thinking that, while I'm at it, I should machine in a "breakaway" groove, similar to the shackles on a fire system valve. The pin would break before damaging the cam if too much torque were applied to the cam. Of course it would leave the shaft in the valve cover, necessitating removal, but that's better than a busted cam.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jun 28, 2013 11:21 pm

Not a terrible idea, but I don't think you will need to do that. The threads on the valve cover will fail first before the pin snaps. Those threads are really shallow and there aren't that many of them in the soft aluminum.

Really a pain in the arse, isn't it?

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