Finally got my little nightmare. 05 CRD sport. While going over it today I pulled the house going to the intake. Found it full of soot contaminated oil. So I decided to poul the hose from turbo to intercooler. It was coated with clean oil. Pulled the turbo inlet hose and found that the impeller has about 50 thousanths run out. Called the dealer immediately. They tried to tell me this is normal! I believe NOT! I think they are trying to get me to run out of warranty (3000 miles) so they don't have to replace the turbo. My cummins doesn't do this. What are your thoughts?

The CCV 'puck' is not a great design and tends to allow more oil vapor to be pulled back through the clean air pipe in front of compressor. If you run about 1/4 inch below the max line on the oil dipstick there is less oil mist produced.

Is the boost good at full throttle? is there any smoke?

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Axial play or in and out play of these turbos is 90% of the time point to a bad turbo. The clean oil in the charge hose points me to a bad seal in the turbo. The soot and dirty oil in the charge hoses is normal and EHM would solve that. But being a new CRD owner and new to the board welcome and read Sir SAMs NOOB Guide it is extremely helpful in CRD beginnings. Also say hello to GED one of our best aftermarket support systems and a genius on everything CRD.

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My CRD Build Thread
Soon to Come:more lights

Have THEM replace the turbo and do an oil change, or return it.

OEM Retail Turbo is $1200, OEM Dealership Oil Change for this is $100.

Or have them refund $1300 of your money, .

I had a turbo with 105k miles on it with 0 run out that was bad. ANY run out on these isn't good.

Do it now, or regret it later.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

It's going back on Monday to "have them look at it". I'm no idiot when it comes to vehicles or turbos. And then I called the old man up. He's been a Diesel mech for 55yrs+. It is axial runout. Typical Specs for units I use say .0004 its at .0267.
It is building good power. Not sure how much boost It is supposed to run and we don't have a gauge(YET).
It has used a half quart in a week(450 miles). I felt it a bit excessive thats why I went looking.

Yesterday it lost all power after I left a toll booth. I had to pull over and shut it down then restart. No CEL. I figured it over-boosted when I jumped on it then had to get out of it quickly. after restart it ran fine again. Anything on this I would love someone to chime in!
No EHM. I may do a provent on this one. My wrangler has a vent hose to the ground and I'm tired of the oil spots on the driveway.(on a side note, you can get 400hp out of a 2.5L gaser with enough boost! It's just hell on motors! 4 and counting)
I will be keeping the vehicle and they will be fixing it or giving me like 2k back. I just know they are going to fight me because of the price I paid verses the price to repair it. They will be losing their shirts!

I forgot to say thanks! how rude of me!

Thanks for the responses

ANY endplay means new turbo. Axial play that you can barely feel is normal. (My brand new one on the shelf has that.) Whoever mentioned bad turbo seals are causing oil in the hoses does not know there are no seals in these turbos. You need a GDE tune and EHM to get the oil out of the hoses and the soot out of the engine oil.

(I just replaced my original OEM hoses at 112K, while doing the TB service and found them to be perfect!)

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

It may have over boosted…or it may have a marginally clogging fuel filter, with the latter most likely. A marginal fuel filter will throw no CELs, but will put the ECU into limp mode, requiring a restart to clear, and it will run fine afterward, until the next time you demand enough power that the clogging filter drops fuel pressure.

The fix for that, of course, is pretty cheap. And might have been necessitated by either a tank full of crappy fuel or just a little too long between fuel filter changes.

Nobody has addressed the oil loss issue, as in, oil consumption. Keep an eye on the stick... the dipsticks are not known to be accurate. Mine shows 1/4 - 1/2 qt. low when I do an oil change with 6.5qts. Been this way forever. It never uses any oil either.

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Mike Rausch
Bear, Delaware
2006 Liberty Sport CRD 253K

Agreed. Don't use the dipstick as the marker for an oil change. Measure in the exact amount and it should not lose any oil. Only time I lost oil was when a couple of the hose clamps on my Provent loosened off slightly and started to leak oil.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

Ok let me verify not truly a seal but these turbos can still leak oil internally. My old one was doing it when it was removed I was loosing about a pint a week at one point.

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My CRD Build Thread
Soon to Come:more lights

Nothing that I would call a true seal just an extremely tight fitting bronze or some such sleeve type bearing with some oil passages for the turbo shaft to spin in. However, with any significant amount of play and I'd say yours is well into the significant range that bearing can start pumping a significant amount of oil out. In fact as several folks know when it really goes bad it can pump all the oil out of the engine in seconds.

Your oil consumption is way way above normal which is virtually no oil consumption. IIRC those that collect the oil from the CCV in a provent report only a 2-3 ounces in like 1,000-1,500 miles. I suspect given the clean oil in the CAC lines that you are losing oil thru the turbo shaft bearing.

FYI the only "hard" part about replacing the turbo is removal of the 4 jam nuts that hold the turbo on the exhaust manifold studs. Copious use of a good penetrating oil well before removal is STRONGLY advised as the studs are way on the weak side. I know as geordi and I broke 2 applying minimal force when intalling my stage II turbo.

Comments about the dip stick are on point but omit oil quantity. When doing a oil change with a stock filter you need to use 6.3 or 6.4 qts of oil (Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is a good choice) or if you go with an oversize filter it's a nice even 7 qts. Wherever that amount falls on your dip stick is the "true" full.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

X2, squared and cubed. There should be no play and no clean oil in the hose. Either is a bad sign.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel