I'm about to pick up my new 2006 CRD tomorrow and I have one question. The truck has 20372 miles on it and has been garage kept here in Colorado. I know the truck is seven years old and I was thinking of just changing the timing belt with a visual on the rest of the components. Will I be safe to drive this thing over the next several months while I collect parts/tools or should I sit on it until I'm ready to swap the belt?

I think you will be fine driving it on this timing belt. Unless the Jeep has been abused, it should last the recommended maintenance interval of 100,000 miles.

Timing belt change is not a bad excuse for getting a closer look.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

At just over 20K miles on it that's a heck of a find, congrats. Should be no problem to put another say 3K miles on it and yes you can probably just do the belt(s), I'd do the serp belt also due to age, as the bearings have not been run all that long although they should be looked at.

Depending on where you are in Colorado you might contact Sir Sam about tools and the belt swap assuming he came thru the floods ok.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Well, I picked her up today. It was like going back in time to a dealership. Besides a little dust she smells like a brand new car. Now I'm off to change pretty much all of the fluids and filters and to order up a GDE tune. The trip home was about 165 miles of open country and I think I was getting close to 30mpg at just about 68mph. This thing is gonna be fun to tinker with.....

Don't trust the EVIC, the over head mileage readout. In the summer mine's off by about 5mpg (Too high) and about 2 in the winter. I run at 2000 rpm's and I get 28-29 mpg, summer, and that's with the AC modification to shut off the AC unless the AC button is pressed to be on (bet you didn't know the compressor is on all the time ).

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Dennis
Considering sound advice, invent your own solutions
CRD

Wait, what?

I would recommend that you change the timing belt sooner rather than later. Most vehicles recommend 6 years or XX miles; I changed mine at 90k 7 years old and it was cracked when I removed it. I am glad I did not wait any longer. The other components are probably fine as the wear is almost exclusively mileage/runtime dependent. I would also accelerate your OCI just to encourage any sludge that may have built up to leave.

Probably will want to change the air hoses, too. Have you read Sam's Noob guide yet?

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

AC is not on "all" the time but close to it. The compressor runs in floor, mix, and defrost modes (possibly also in recirculate) regardless of the position of the AC "on" switch. This is to reduce interior vehicle humidity and is common to all contemporary vehicles with AC.

There are at least 2 modes that disable this feature. At least one of those modes allows you to control when the compressor runs.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

See

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-mo ... rol-26491/

and
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/5545/hvacmodfo9.jpg

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Dennis
Considering sound advice, invent your own solutions
CRD

How did you find a CRD with ~20k miles on it! That's pretty amazing. If you don't mind my asking, where did you look and how much did you pay?

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SOLD - 2005 Blue Ltd CRD
Purchased 68k 09/13 | Build 01/05
GDE FT Eco Tune | Blue Samcos | Bosch 5v GPs | 2nd Gen Fuel Head | New Bosch MAP | Hayden Fanclutch | New TB kit ~74.2k (Geordi)
Tow Package | Engine/Tranny/TC Skids | Fumoto F102S | Roof Rack | USA Spec PA-11CHR | EVIC | auto dimming mirror | Yoko Geolander A/T-S LT225/75R16

Is that because the transmission cooler in the diesel vehicles is integrated into the A/C condenser? If you disble the compressor, will the transmission overheat?

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2005 Liberty Limited CRD; Air Filter Monitor; Samco Hoses; GDE HOT Tune; RL037142AA TC; KJ Interior Rack from All J Products; JBA Adjust-a-strut lift and A-Arms; 245/75R16 Firestone Destination ATs on Moabs; ARB Bumper; ASFIR Skids; FS-2500 Bypass Filter; ARP studs.
2016 Grand Cherokee Overland CRD.

Well, as luck would have it I was talking to a few guys at work about diesels in general. I had been debating on selling my duramax to find something a bit smaller to play with as I had never meant it to be a daily driver. I had a 2002 Golf TDI with 84xxx miles on it that I had just changed the timing belt as well as all fluids and filters along with the normal forum mods when I promptly met up with a Peterbilt when he pulled out in front of me.....needless to say there went my 48/55mpg daily driver....anyways, I was talking about the Jeep CRD and a guy at work told me his dad had died a bit back and his mom has Parkinson's and can't drive....and they have one sitting in the garage collecting dust....a Limited 2006 in inferno red. So two weekends later and a 165 mile road trip, it's now sitting in my driveway. I changed the original fuel filter and changed the oil with Mobil 1 5W-40 and the M1-301 filter today. I also cleaned the MAF and MAP. The MAP was a real mess....the guys parents were about 70 when they bought it, so I don't think they drove it much....I think she is about 76 years young now. They had originally purchased it up in Wyoming in 2006 and moved down here to Colorado the same year. She also told me that the 4x4 has never been used. So, I'm slowly going down the normal list of items to fix/mod as time and money allows. I'm starting with all the fluids and filters and I have also ordered the GDE tune. I was wondering if it might be worth it to clean the intake at some point, but I'm not sure how bad it will be with the low mileage. I also paid right at 15k for it. I figured it was a good deal as they are hard to find with such low miles. It still looks like a new car. Besides, the value of low mileage 2500HD diesels are going through the roof if they don't have def and all the other crazy emissions equipment. I'll pay the Jeep off and put the extra money in the bank or deal with some of the never ending home maintenance.

I've run this MOD for over a year now, some 20,000 + miles and never saw the trans. over heat light come on.

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Dennis
Considering sound advice, invent your own solutions
CRD

No the transmission won't overheat and yes the tranny cooler is "in" the AC condenser but only in the sense that it's the bottom portion of the AC condenser same as the more common location in the bottom portion of the radiator.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Wow, a "barn find" CRD. Congrats and welcome to the group. With only 20 some thousand miles I wouldn't worry too much about the intake being clogged.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Congrats on the score!

A GDE tune, provent crank ventilation filter, a Racor 245, and a lift pump (either in tank or inline) will give you many worry free miles and no need to clean intake in future.

Consider timing belt replacement. Rubber deteriorates over time and I wouldn't drive it much longer.

Dump the oil since it is probably 0w40 and put some 5w40 in it along with a Mobil 1 301 oil filter.

Good luck and welcome to the brotherhood!

The oil was dumped and changed the day after I drove it home. The tune is ordered and I'm going to deal with the other stuff rather quickly. I'm going to see if I can take a peak at the timing belt to look for cracks and such and order up a belt and find some tools.

With as much as is involved with getting to the timing belt, "peeking" at it really isn't condusive to your sanity.

I supposed you might snake some kind of scope in there, but not to any avail really.

Where are you located? There may be a member with tools nearby. Sir Sam is in Colorado, but I know it's a big state.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

smith63b1p is just a bit north of Denver. Given that location there are several members with tools and experience along the Front Range from C. Springs up to Fort Collins.

Yes you can "peek" at the timing belt by removing several of the timing belt cover bolts and gently prying the top of that cover away from the front engine cover (just behind timing belt - thing that has to be removed to get to water pump) but I don't think doing so will tell you much unless the belt is in such bad shape that the vehicle needs a trailer ride to the timing belt change. The area that opens up is where the belt runs between the 2 cam gears in a straight line and you can only see the top and front edge of the belt. Any cracks are likely only to be visible on the bottom of the belt and then only where the belt goes around a bend.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

FYI, when I replace my tb, at 98k, it looked like new, only till I squeezed a little I saw small cracks. Safest would be to just replace it, its less than 100 bucks for your peace of mind.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.