Well thought everything was going for a change, to good to be true I guess. Been almost 3 months since I was the dealer. Almost 6months since the EGR (at 7000 miles) was replaced.Now (at 15500 miles)the other night the CEL came on and shut back off.

Ran the codes and its just getting the P401. But no cel. Any one know what the fix is for this? A new EGR?

I believe that is the one for the EGR Flow Control Valve, also known as anti shudder valve or anti run on valve, all it does is shut the engine air flow off to help the engine shut down without the shake and rattle. It can cause a drop in fuel econnomy if it is stuck partly closed/open position or failure to start and run if it were to fail in closed position. It is a fairly easy replacement, compared to EGR valve.

The valve probably could be cleaned with carb cleaner on ocassion without a problem as long as no chunks were dislocated and you waited long enough for the cleaner to evaporate before reinstalling hose and starting engine. I did it once on my '00 NB when the anti shudder valve on it stuck, it worked afterword and never gave a problem again. Those valves were vacuum operated and ours are electrical and probably burn the motors up in short order when they stick or start getting hard to open and close.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

I think I understand what this air control valve does. Is this the piece so many are having trouble with? What does the actual EGR valve consist of? Anybody had one of those go bad? I can see where this little motorized butterfly air control valve could be trouble - especially if the ciruit protection is inadequate. I assume this valve runs closed loop and has positon feedback? The computer knows what postion it is actually in not just where it was told to be? A properly sized fuse in the power to this valve should be able to keep it from frying the motor. Then one would have to free up the stuck valve and replace the fuse! This is mostly speculation at this point I know, but I will be checking into this closer. Electrical control systems are what I do for a living. Electrical systems on a vehicle are usually done the cheapest way possible and they can really be frustrating, but even on a vehicle electricity still has to play by the rules.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

You hit it right on the head Oldnavy.. Flow Control Valve is stuck OPEN. Dont know what that causes but I was told It could cause bad MPG, and more smoke. They will have the part tomorrow, and i should have the crd back by tomorrow night. Tech is really good, still knows my name. I swear his finger prints are still on the engine from last time.

I looked the part over and it was all inclosed and could see no fuse outside, could have been one inside the top section that was not designed to be opened at that level. This part is a turn in part, so my guess is they are sent to be rebuilt somewhere. The EGR is also electric motor driven and will have same problems I bet. The new EGR I looked at sure was heavy for some reason, probably bigger motor. The way it opens and closes is a design that looked like it would failure prone to soot build up on the valve and valve surface, depending on ammount of oil film mixing with soot preventing proper sealing when the valve seats. This could cause the device to burn out a motor, if that is what indeed powers the thing, although I could not see anything else possible as power source.

I rattle on so I will turn it over to other for comments.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

If people could post the part number of what failed in their EGR system we could get a handle on exactly what is failing. I think either one of these could be called an EGR valve. I'd like to know if both are failing, or one more than the other. Doesn't one of these valves already have a revised version out? Part numbers if you've got 'em folks, please.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

No, both are not ERG valves. One is just a anti shudder valve located at the start of the intake manifold and has nothing to do with exhaust gase recirculation, it just helps the engine stop without all the shake and run on shudder. It also helps to prevent runaway enigne if turbo seals fail and you suddenly get a bunch of excess oil ito intake. When that happens, and you shut off engine the fuel is till coming from engine oil and the only way to stop it is to shut of air or if you have a manual tranny leave it in gear and hammer the brakes. Last one in not the best option and cause severe damage to engine and or the driver. Had a navy bus do that one time, it broke a ring or blew a hole in the piston one and sucked oil into the engine and I just happened to be in high gear and had new brake. I blew threw a big intersection on base and managed to get stopped without any injurys to me, my two passangers or anyone in the traffic pattern.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

I know they are not both EGR valves, but it really wouldn't surprise me if what the service manual refers to as the "EGR air flow control valve" is getting abbreviated to simply EGR valve by many. That is why I would like to compare part numbers. According to the service manual the anti shudder valve also affects EGR function by generating a vacuum and increasing air flow through the EGR. Really. My Nissans have a somewhat similar setup. There is a butterfly in the air cleaner housing. It closes partially to help increase EGR flow. I do like the idea of a shutoff in the intake. I never had it happen, but I know the owners manual for a 90 model Dodge Cummins contained detailed instructions on how to smother a runaway by feeding the contents of a fire extinquisher (preferably Halon) to the air intake!!!!

Anybody willing to post the part numbers for the EGR parts they have had replaced would be appreciated. It would help our collective knowledge here.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Sorry I didn't quite get the posting the first time, but I see what you mean now. The dealer missed ordered mine and got a EGR instead, had to wait another week for the correct part.

I have seen a couple of diesels that had non stock intakes without the anti shutdown valve with the fire bottle plumbed to intake.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

I've heard you can get a runaway by parking over the top of a gasoline spill. If I couldn't shut a runaway down from inside the cab, I doubt I would have the nerve to get close enough to use a fire extinquisher. A gasoline runaway on a turbo diesel would have to be a screamer. Having an extinquisher of some sort plumbed up and ready would seem like a good idea if there was a strong chance of a runaway. Seems like I might have seen a setup like this at a tractor pull, but I don't really remember.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Just do what most people do. Run like hell and let the pieces fall where they may!!

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

I'd pay money to watch from a distance if somebody was going to do it deliberately!

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

About the same advice for the big Fairbanks Morse gensets on board subs. There were always a couple of big flat plates of sheet metal stowed in vicinity of the air intake. General procedure in case of an oil runaway was to trip the fuel rack, throw the plates over the intake, and RUN LIKE HELL!

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Those Fairbanks engines, were they an opposed piston design? My company has an old genset with an opposed piston Fairbanks.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Saw the results of a circle william on a skimmer, before it stopped the bulkheads were caved in. They had to cut out the entry hatch and replace it, we could not figure why they CW'ed the space till we got over and did the inspection. Found that it had been misslabled in the shipyard, and had not been caught in first shake downs. I can't remember for sure, but I think it was a new FFG gas turbine hotrod.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Got the liberty back today they replaced the Mixing Valve and said it should be fixed. Also STAR was still saying I had to have a OEM air filter and the fact I was using a aftermarket STP was a cause to my issues. Tech told them that wa s BS, service advisor told them that was BS also. STAR also told him to replace the turbo. Which he said was BS and another STAR techie said was BS. So to keep them happy I bought one and made sure the tech saw me put it on.

Well the CRD was running great, no CEL, power was back to normal and was running good. Got my self a tank of BP premium D2 and after starting up and running a few miles the CEL came right back on. P401 and P299. Called him when I got home and he said bring it when you got time and STAR said If it came back he would have to clean the intake and egr out.
Great, Ill be in LA for a week and the wifes gotta drive it like this.

Would gutting the cat have anything to do with this?

What part numbers did they list on the service ticket if I may ask?

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Ooops... Sorry meant to post it.
5142799-AA VALVE EGR
5142806-AA T/BODY EG
5142613-AA GASKET EG

Thanks for the info.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Well, got the CRD in the dealer again. The tech had mentioned he couldnt believe the amount of oil in the intake. He also called another Dealer who's tech had the simaler problem, Just had a new EGR, and Mix Valve and a few months later same trouble codes with a TON of oil in the intake. Well at first STAR blamed it on the aftermarket airfilter, he had like a STP I believe so just a standard paper filter, Tech at the other dealer called that BS.

Of course STAR said replace the EGR but then my tech questioned there logic on that, saying isnt this just going to keep happenning with that much oil in the intake?

STAR said check the CCV valve, but to check it, you have to break it. LOL Great but no big deal cause he can get the part tomorrow. Oh, it was working perfect btw.

STAR is CLUELESS and they HAVE NO IDEA why so much oil is getting to the intake and failing the EGR.. My tech and the tech at the other dealer both agree that the excess oil is whats causeing the EGR issues. The tech said he will replace the CCV valve, and if STAR doesnt get him any info back hes going to get a new EGR on there just so I can drive it. And also said he would gladly keep replacing it until STAR cameback with a permanent fix.

So DC knows theres a problem, but just doesnt know how to fix it?