Not turning over.

halburchal · **Posted:** Thu Mar 06, 2014 5:16 pm

Jeep Liberty 2005 2.8L

I took out the alternator so that I could replace the engine block heater cord. Got everything back together turned the key on. Everything came on....turned the key to start the Jeep and nothing.

The Jeep will not turn over. Any suggestions?

bugnout · **Posted:** Thu Mar 06, 2014 6:18 pm

No crank at all, or cranks but wont fire?

halburchal · **Posted:** Thu Mar 06, 2014 6:38 pm

bugnout wrote:

No crank at all, or cranks but wont fire?

Will not crank at all. Everything turns on but will not crank. It wont even act like it wants to crank.

Auberon · **Posted:** Thu Mar 06, 2014 6:44 pm

Any indicative solenoid noises or clicks at all like throw out on a/c clutch, starter solenoid etc?

halburchal · **Posted:** Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:02 pm

Auberon wrote:

Any indicative solenoid noises or clicks at all like throw out on a/c clutch, starter solenoid etc?

Nope, nothing.

halburchal · **Posted:** Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:16 pm

halburchal wrote:

Auberon wrote:

Any indicative solenoid noises or clicks at all like throw out on a/c clutch, starter solenoid etc?

Nope, nothing.

Well, I unhooked the negative cable for 45 minutes and then hooked it back up and gave it a try and the Jeep cranked right up. I guess something reset.

Thanks, y'all.

I wish I knew what reset???

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:02 pm

happened to me also.

The remedy is this: If at first you don't succeed ............ RESET.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:56 pm

The thing to bear in mind with these: The computer runs EVERYTHING. This is not like the old mechanical systems where turning the key activates a relay that sends power to the starter. Doesn't happen like that anymore.

Turning the key boots the computer (if it isn't already awake from opening the door) and then when the key reaches the START position, that signals the computer that you would like to start the engine.

The computer then runs through its self-checks and asks the various sensors if they are ready to go - Engine coolant temp, crank position sensor, cam position sensor - these are the big three that must be working to start the engine. In addition, it asks the airbag computer if anything had been deployed. If they are, you WILL NOT get the engine to fire. If everything checks out, then the COMPUTER decides that it is OK to fire the engine, and energizes the relay to send power to the starter.

All this takes place in less than a 1/10th of a second, and then the starter engages. If it doesn't do ANYTHING at all - the problem is 80% electronic in nature. Try unhooking the battery first, but if that doesn't work, then you have to get more invasive to find the problem. Thats where it gets hard.

Auberon · **Posted:** Fri Mar 07, 2014 9:33 am

Glad you solved it.
What you did would've been my first suggestion.
I have some suspicions as to why but the fact that what you did worked is good enough.
Indeed if it doesn't go into what they call "countdown" she's a no go - it's what stops it doing the countdown check that's grey.

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Mar 07, 2014 11:50 am

Why would you remove the alternator to replace the engine block cord?

That'd be like removing a door so you can climb through the window. You can do the entire thing from underneath without removing anything, and with no tools.

Crazy...

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 07, 2014 1:18 pm

How does the cord attach to the block heater? Believe it or not....my block heater cord is still zip tied to the dipstick as it was from the factory. Luckily I haven't really had to use it here in NC but you can see where the cord is cracked on the insulation from where it is bound up. Before next winter I'll probably go ahead and replace so I can use the block heater.

Jim

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:53 pm

It literally just plugs in with a small heart-shaped plug. The only thing holding it in is the friction from the interference fit.

I used some zip ties to position it so it wouldn't get pulled out by engine vibration and left some relief-slack in the cord.

It just pulls out and pushes in by hand, it's in a strange spot, but you can reach it from underneath and unplug and re-plug it with no problem, you don't have to remove anything.

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 07, 2014 6:26 pm

That's awesome. I'll have replace it before next winter. I remember seeing it from underneath but I wasn't sure how it attached.

Jim

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Mar 08, 2014 9:25 am

NAPA KAT 28400

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sat Mar 08, 2014 11:06 pm

Just saw one hanging on the shelf at O'Reillys too.

Not turning over.

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