Crap...oil light on intermittently

MicroBruin · **Posted:** Sat Feb 15, 2014 3:18 am

So I was careful not to overfill with oil on my first oil change...put in 6.4qts and have gone about 5000 miles. Noticed that it registers somewhere between "add" and the full line, closer to the add. The oil light comes on today, and it seems low. I add 1qt Mobil 1 and it registers about 4mm below full. Unfortunately, the light and chime still come on every few seconds irregularly, goes out, comes back on. I'm a little concerned...did I run it too low for too long, a bad pressure sensor, oil pump failure? No major leaks that I can see...just the usual little weep near the turbo, and maybe a couple drips a day from the oil drain plug that may have minor thread issues. I wonder what's up. I was surprised to come up empty on a forum search...has anyone else had an oil light issue on a CRD?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Feb 15, 2014 3:21 am

Bad sensor. The sensor will be USELESS for telling you of an actual problem, because of its location right at the outlet of the pump and filter.

Change the sensor and don't worry about it. Also use the M1-301 filter and your oil change becomes 7 quarts exactly instead of the stupid off-number 6.4.

Search on my user name for the oil drain thread repair - I used a solid collar spark plug thread repair on mine, worked perfectly.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 2:42 am

BTW, most of the world gets their oil in litre bottles. The KJ CRD takes exactly 6 litres with filter for an oil change.

DOC

Glend · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 3:33 am

Put in the Fujimoto drain valve and never worry about stripping that pan again.

MicroBruin · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 11:53 am

Can the Fujimoto go in if there's already a thread issue? I'm a little worried about shearing off the Fujimoto when i take the jeep off the pavement. Maybe I'll try a little Teflon tape on my next oil change...until I get time to try the spark plug repair.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:15 pm

You need Fumoto f-102 valve and you can get it from Lubrication Specialist
http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/f- ... alve-f102/

If you have a transmission skid plate there is no danger in shear it off or getting touched while offroading unless you do something very extreme.

If the threads are not completely messed up, you may be able to just bolt it in and gently torque it to the oil pan.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:52 pm

If the threads are messed up there are options. PM geordi for his which I cannot locate at the moment.

FYI I worried about the Fumoto drain lever somehow getting flipped open so I got the spring clip that holds it in place. Don't make that mistake as the clip is a bear to remove especially with the skid in place. Much better just use a black UV stable zip tie and clip the end off once it's on. When comes time to drain just clip the zip tie off with diagonal pliers (a.k.a. dikes)

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 11:26 pm

thermorex wrote:

If you have a transmission skid plate there is no danger in shear it off or getting touched while offroading unless you do something very extreme.

Doesn't have to be that extreme - I bent the stock tranny skid enough to bend the tranny pan, and JL_Rockies - took out the skid and the oil filter.

The stock tranny skid isn't very strong - if you go offroad - you need something better.

toy_vw · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2013 2:50 pm **Posts:** 35

I rock one of these..the stubby version...its virtually 3/4 inch tall with cap...no worry of flipping the lever or knocking it off..if you hit this..you were gonna hit your original plug...

http://www.nospillsystems.com/

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:08 am

ATXKJ wrote:

thermorex wrote:

If you have a transmission skid plate there is no danger in shear it off or getting touched while offroading unless you do something very extreme.

Doesn't have to be that extreme - I bent the stock tranny skid enough to bend the tranny pan, and JL_Rockies - took out the skid and the oil filter.

The stock tranny skid isn't very strong - if you go offroad - you need something better.

I guess that depends on each definition of extreme, lol. But sure, agree, OEM skid plates aren't too strong, still you must have hit a big rock to bend it and rip it off. Stock skid plates are more for grass/mud, maybe some gravel. For rock climbing/rocky terrain I'd go with a 1/4 inch thick skid for sure.

MicroBruin · **Posted:** Wed Feb 19, 2014 2:37 pm

Well...drove around town a little, while carefully watching the temp gauge and listening. The truck was running fine, so it must just be the sensor or wiring harness. Both are a little cruddy from the weeping oil directly above. This sensor sits right below the turbo hoses (airbox to turbo and turbo to intercooler)that were leaking and were never fixed by previous owner, so it's no surprise that it's acting up. I picked up a replacement sensor and will install on the next oil change, and will clean up the harness and connectors a little. I drove close to 500 miles, and right now the oil light has stopped coming on.

Well, thanks for all the advice. For now, I picked up a cheap package of M16X22 copper washers from Ebay and will continue to use the original oil plug, since it isn't really weeping much at all. On the next oil change I plan to determine the condition of the threads. I don't currently have the transmission skid, so I'll wait a while on the Fumoto. The clearance on this truck isn't particularly great to begin with. I don't want the Fumoto hanging down until I get a skid....

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Feb 19, 2014 3:11 pm

If you have some time, go to some local junkyards and see if you can get a used one, don't see them charging a lot for a skid. That would be way cheaper than buying a new one, that in case you want to go with OEM skids...

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

MicroBruin wrote:

I don't want the Fumoto hanging down until I get a skid....

It sits just behind and around 2" above the cross-member, so you really will be fine (unless you go wheeling). The larger Mobil-1 M1-301 oil filter actually sits lower than the drain valve.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 19, 2014 3:27 pm

Instead of the copper crush washers that need some actual thread strength to use, I would suggest a simple o-ring seal. It can be snug against the throat of the bolt, and when it is compressed in, your seal is made. The O-rings from the plumbing section of Home Depot will work just fine, I usually get the small multi-box of o-rings, the box is like $9 and comes with about 15 different sizes and thicknesses. You want it to be snug around the bolt, and thick enough to extend wider than the threads.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Wed Feb 19, 2014 4:47 pm

toy_vw wrote:

I rock one of these..the stubby version...its virtually 3/4 inch tall with cap...no worry of flipping the lever or knocking it off..if you hit this..you were gonna hit your original plug...

http://www.nospillsystems.com/

Nice design but at $132 it's way too much for the convenience it provides.

MOSFET · **Joined:** Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:40 pm **Posts:** 295

My oil light just started coming on intermittently as well. First time it was when I backed into my driveway, and other times when I was at a stop light. It turns off if I rev the engine. Oil level is fine, half way between min and max.

From the posts above it appears to be most likely due to a faulty oil sensor/sender.

SargeIndustries · **Posted:** Mon Feb 24, 2014 4:18 pm

MOSFET wrote:

My oil light just started coming on intermittently as well. First time it was when I backed into my driveway, and other times when I was at a stop light. It turns off if I rev the engine. Oil level is fine, half way between min and max.

From the posts above it appears to be most likely due to a faulty oil sensor/sender.

Mine did this very same thing. I replaced the oil filter and it went away...

MOSFET · **Joined:** Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:40 pm **Posts:** 295

I had the oil sender replaced and that fixed the problem.

MicroBruin · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:31 pm

Well, oil light seemed to go out on its own, but I completely cleaned off the exterior of the sensor and the dirty end of the wiring harness with electronics cleaner. Haven't seen the light again since. I guess I'll hang on to the new sensor until it acts up again...

MicroBruin · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:35 pm

MOSFET wrote:

My oil light just started coming on intermittently as well. First time it was when I backed into my driveway, and other times when I was at a stop light. It turns off if I rev the engine. Oil level is fine, half way between min and max.

X2...only when coasting, sitting at a light, etc. As soon as I gave her gas, the light went out...only to go "ding" and come on again a few seconds after letting off the gas.

Crap...oil light on intermittently

Who is online