I had to leave home in early February for a family emergency on the west coast. My passenger side hub was starting to make the change me noises but I was unable to get it done before leaving.
The Mrs. has been driving the libby while I am away and she told me it's getting quite a bit louder.
She took it to a local "guy" who told her it's nothing to worry about yet as the ABS light will come on when it gets real bad.
I would prefer to change it myself (save$$) when I get home in a couple of weeks but I don't want her to have any problems.
Has anyone heard of this ABS light thing before and does it apply to our libby's?
Thanks
AL

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RIP Gold 06 Sport Feb 24 2012
Replacement... Black 06 CRD Sport
GDE Eco tune !!
Etecno Metal glow plugs
New starter at 165,000km
New timing belt water pump ( ID Parts) 169,000 km

The ABS light would come on when the wires get melted or burned off, or the sensor inside was melted.

Really the best indicator for your issue is the noises you are hearing. Depending on the severity you can drive on it until it seizes, and that's just honest truth. It may go all at once, and it may run that way for 6 months, without seeing the rollers inside there's no honest way to tell and no indication short of mechanical failure that would tell you they've gone out.

Your safest bet, is to park it until you fix it. The only pain in the butt is the axle nut itself, I would recommend an impact as I nearly snapped an 18" breaker bar trying to get mine off but the impact zipped it right off. Oh yeah, the star head sockets for the 3 bolts that screw into the back of the hubs.

They're an integrated hub, so the ABS sensor and the bearings are all 1 unit, you can't buy separately.

Good luck!

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

The easiest way in my opinion is to buy a used steering knuckle (on eBay is about 30 bucks), just make sure the vehicle you're getting it from didn't have an accident on that side. Then buy a Timken or skf front bearing with abs, also eBay has them for cheap (about 60% the price from Autoparts stores). You can put the bearing on the used steering knuckle and then replace the one on your jeep. Use plenty pb blaster on all bolts, it won't be a problem replacing it with regular tools. You can also buy the star sockets from Sears. I haven't had any issue with the axle nut, but I can see that getting stuck pretty bad, you won't know it till you try taking it off, which you can try to do first thing after you remove the wheel. Overall, it's an easy job, provided you have the right tools, just make sure you have some ball joint pullers, to break them loose from the steering knuckle.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I recently changed the right front hub on mine.

The easiest way is to buy a new hub assembly, about $180 from Advance Auto Parts with
ABS sensor. The set of Torx sockets was another $40.
You will also need a large socket for the CV axle end. Sorry, cant remember the exact size
(1 1/4" I think).
I have a set of 3/4 drive sockets and ratchet and had no problem getting it off.

You will also need a jack, jack stand, a set of metric wrenches, and a large hammer.

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U.S. Army Retired

For axle nut, it's a metric 35, every Autoparts store should have it, but it's under axle removal tools.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Here is a grerat write up on changing the front hub wheel assembly.

http://jeepkj.com/forum/f202/hub-replacement-46865/

Dont need to remove any ball joints or the tierod.
If you have a napa remanned CV shaft the axle nut will be 36mm.
And you will need a external trox E-14 socket as others have stated.

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Phil
2005 131k 3.7 Gasser (Lifted-CRD Springs, 4.10 Gears, F+R DTT, Teraflex 2wd Low, Skidrow/Mopar Skids, Rock Lizard Super Skinks, Goodyear Wrangler Authority 31x10.5-15)
2012 Triumph Tiger (TKC 80 Front Tire Heidnau K60 Rear, Crash Bars, Skid Plate, Bark Busters, Pelican Case Top Box)

Thanks for all the tips and ideas everyone. I am not at all worried about doing the job although the tips on needed tools as well as the post with pics on replacing are good to have.
I was really wondering about that ABS light business and if it applies to us or is it more a hearsay type thing that has no merit.

The libby is our daily driver and if she parks it she'll be wheeling the motorhome around. lol. I get home April 5th so that's not too far away and she has no long trips scheduled.
Thanks again everyone
AL

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RIP Gold 06 Sport Feb 24 2012
Replacement... Black 06 CRD Sport
GDE Eco tune !!
Etecno Metal glow plugs
New starter at 165,000km
New timing belt water pump ( ID Parts) 169,000 km

Cannot recommend driving on a failing wheel bearing...I did that once with horrible results, although not intentionally. When it failed the ABS sensor began coming on. Basically, did $600-800 worth of damage to my front passenger side. This was on my previous 4X4, not the CRD.

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David T.
**DEAD**2005 CRD Limited 4X4 - Stone White **DEAD**
116,000 miles
RRO Rockfather Deluxe Lift (OME/KYB GR-2/RRO)
GDE Eco Tune
SAMCO Sport CAC Hoses
Hayden Fan Clutch
Updated Litens Serpentine Tensioner
European Graf Water Pump
Nitro Rear Diff Cover w/Lubelocker Gasket

Yes the ABS light can come on or may not come on till the bearing completely fails.It's not a sure sign.If left you can do several hundreds(if not thousands) of dollars worth of damage.

Last bad one I dealt with the guy waited till the ABS light came on,cost him $2700 since it also took the wheel,tire,caliper(and mount),rotor,pads,,CV axle,front diff,swaybar end link,knuckle,brake line,upper control arm,and lower ball joint out and he was still driving it that way.That was just the mechanical damage,he also tore the fender up.