And it begins!

JieselDeep · **Posted:** Wed Jul 02, 2014 3:52 am

Let the discussion begin!

I called for an update on Friday. Service advisor told me that the mechanic says the turbo is bad (quoted over $4k for replacement), the EGR is bad (just shy of $1,000), the #2 glow plug is bad (just over $225 for replacement...all prices are parts & labor inclusive). I told her to do whatever was covered under the powertrain warranty and I would take care of the rest. She advised me that the mechanic had told her that the EGR and bad glow plug could adversely affect the life of the turbo and might cause misfires and she strongly advised I just let them take care of it...to the tune of about $1,200. I again declined and asked them to do only the warranty work and forgot to ask how long they expected that to take. If the mechanic truly did tell her that not replacing the EGR and GP could lessen the life of the turbo, thereby causing me to lose warranty coverage, he needs to be trained a little more about what directly affects what.

She called back a couple hours later and asked for approval to change 3 hose clamps on the intercooler hoses that "were no longer holding". I've never had an issue with my intercooler hose clamps and strongly doubt that they need replacement, but if they do, I'll spend the $3 apiece at Fastenal or online and replace them myself, instead of the $36 they want to replace them. Again, I told her only work on what is covered by the powertrain warranty...I will not pay for extra work, but I'd love to know which clamps they think are going bad. She said that would be included on the report when I picked up the car.
When I called again today for an update, the service advisor said there would be about another 5 days for parts to arrive and 2 more to finish replacing the turbo, so I'm looking at Tuesday or Wednesday of next week to get it back. However, at this time she also told me that if they felt the car was not safe to drive with a bad EGR and bad glow plug, they would be forced to do the other work and charge me for it.

I told her to call before they did anything more than change the turbo and I do not authorize any other work to be done to my vehicle.

Tonight I plan to re-educate myself on EGR's (Specifically our EGR's), Jeep service manual concerns regarding the EGR and glow plugs, and I may even just order my replacement stainless glow plug from IDparts.com so that if that's where they decide to make their stand, I can say 'Fine, tell me when the turbo's done and I have access to my Jeep again and I'll tow it home' (work has a trailer that I used to get it there in the first place).

Tomorrow I make an appointment with the head of the service department and calmly explain why I feel that his mechanic and service advisor are misinformed about the function and safety risks associated with a bad EGR valve and bad glow plug.

I believe I fully understand the risks of a ceramic glow plug that has failed and understand it'd be a real pain in the rear to fish out the tip if it cracks, and may even drop into the cylinder and either pass through, or destroy the cylinder if it happens while running. If I remember correctly, the GP's warm up for about a half a second on startup as long as the engine is above around 40 degrees F...can't find that post anymore though! Here in Hawaii, there are very few places that get below 60 on a cold night, so the GP's get tested by the ECM with each start, but don't actually warm the cylinders.

And I think I understand as much as any of us do, what the EGR does. But the failed EGR has very little to do with the turbo and, if anything, an EGR failed closed will lengthen the life of the items downstream and raise my fuel economy, torque, and lower emissions.

Anyhow, if anyone recalls better what or whose posts outlined the temperature range that the GP's are used on our little diesels, please link it here. I seem to have lost track of that one. Also, if there are informative posts about the EGR, please link those as well.

I couldn't help but feel the comment about being forced to repair my car and charge me afterward was a scare tactic/veiled threat. I do recall that one of the major selling points of this warranty for me was the fact that it was not transferable, but in the case of a sale, it was cancellable and refundable for the portion of coverage time left on the warranty...now I need to check if the warranty work can be done anywhere else aside from Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep.

Thanks,
Jon

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Jul 02, 2014 4:07 am

Jon,

if you have a Chrysler warranty, I suggest you call Chrysler warranty in Detroit and begin your discussion with them. They are your advocate. Locate the contact information on your contract and call them first thing.

The dealer does not want to do warranty work because they will not get paid enough. Warranty work is a money loser for them, hence the reason why they are trying their hardest to have you add to the kiddy.

Call Chrysler Customer Care (CCC) immediately, before you speak to the service manager, so that when you sit down with him he will realize that you have CCC involved and his goose is cooked.

When it comes to warranty work you must get CCC involved or the dealer will always give you a run around. Your recourse is with Chrysler warranty / Customer Care, let them contact the dealer and not you.

You will be spinning your wheels and forced to pay the difference if you don't get CCC involved from the beginning, let customer care speak to the dealer for you and let them be the one that inform you of how much you will owe. Also ask them what is covered. I believe that the EGR and GP are also covered under warranty.

Ask me how I know....

And it begins!

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