Where does this go?

TerryZ91 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:21 pm **Posts:** 38

Hi,

I just bought a 2005 liberty CRD and I have alot learned from this forum by searching and just reading other post. When I bought the CRD, it kept dying after 15 minutes of warm up, then after waiting half an hour, it would start back up again. I learned from here that it was a crankshaft position sensor, so I replaced it and it seems like the problem is fixed. However, when I was replacing the crankshaft position sensor, I saw an electric connector that came out of the passenger firewall that was not plugged in. Is it supposed to be plugged in? What is it for? It has two wires, red and black.

Also, another question i wanted to ask you is about the glow plug. I bought he etecno GX3123 7V plugs since mine is not converted yet. So far I have only replaced plug #1 and after replacing that it seems like the crd takes two persistent cranks to start. Before, with the ceramic glow plug, it would start on the first try. And the weather is warm (70-80) so I don't think replacing the glow plug should have any effect on it but i just wanted to verify. It started happening after I worked on the car. I did the crankshaft position sensor, oil change, and replaced GP #1. I'm not sure if I mess anything up or if its something else. Also, when I when I was taking out the old glow plug it seemed like I stripped the threads but they held up the metal glow plug fine and I torqued it to 9-10 n.m. If the glow plug threads were stripped would it cause this hard startup since it won't be a tight seal to provide full compression? It runs fine once started. Will I see other symptoms if the threads were stripped?
Thanks in advance for your help!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:38 pm

Plug is for the coolant level low warning - plugs into the sensor on the bottom of the coolant tank. Not sure if you can get it plugged in without removal of the tank. If you do have to remove the tank it can be done with removal of any hoses or loss of any coolant but be advised there is a metal flange that slides into a notch in the bottom of the tank such that once the upper retaining bolts are removed you have to slide the tank forward a inch or so to clear the flange.

Not sure what you mean by two persistent cranks but I can say I see no significant difference in starting behavior between the ceramics and the Etecno1 metal plugs.

TerryZ91 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:21 pm **Posts:** 38

papaindigo wrote:

Plug is for the coolant level low warning - plugs into the sensor on the bottom of the coolant tank. Not sure if you can get it plugged in without removal of the tank. If you do have to remove the tank it can be done with removal of any hoses or loss of any coolant but be advised there is a metal flange that slides into a notch in the bottom of the tank such that once the upper retaining bolts are removed you have to slide the tank forward a inch or so to clear the flange.

Not sure what you mean by two persistent cranks but I can say I see no significant difference in starting behavior between the ceramics and the Etecno1 metal plugs.

Hi papaindigo, thanks for the reply.
It takes two tries to get the crd started. Before it started on the first try of 2-3 seconds of cranking. Now it take 2 tries of 5 seconds of cranking each. And yes, I'm waiting for the glow plug light to disappear before I crank it.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2014 2:17 pm

This is the notch papaindigo mentioned.

TerryZ91 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:21 pm **Posts:** 38

Thanks, i was actually able to connect it without removing anything. I just went by feel and found the connector on the bottom of the coolant tank and i was able to plug it in from there. Thanks guys.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:16 am

You did not have the low coolant warning light?

DOC

Billwill · **Posted:** Wed Jun 25, 2014 4:23 am

DOC4444 wrote:

You did not have the low coolant warning light?

DOC

Maybe the previous owner disabled the low coolant warning light or else the sensor works such that if it is disconnected then the light cannot come on?

The OP needs to test the cluster lights all work by holding in the odometer trip rest button while switching the ignition ON...should light up all cluster lamps and move the gauges around.

Very important to know that there is not a "low coolant" problem! :shock:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jun 25, 2014 8:56 am

Running the cluster test is fine although the low coolant warning light should come on for a few seconds when you just switch the ignition on without starting the engine, mine certainly does. I suspect but don't know that the low coolant warning is triggered by a float switch that closes/completes a circuit in which case with that plug undone the circuit is always open (e.g. light is essentially switched off no matter what)

TerryZ91 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:21 pm **Posts:** 38

Billwill wrote:

DOC4444 wrote:

You did not have the low coolant warning light?

DOC

Maybe the previous owner disabled the low coolant warning light or else the sensor works such that if it is disconnected then the light cannot come on?

The OP needs to test the cluster lights all work by holding in the odometer trip rest button while switching the ignition ON...should light up all cluster lamps and move the gauges around.

Very important to know that there is not a "low coolant" problem! :shock:

I did not know about the cluster light test. Will definitely try this. The sensor was unplugged like that when I bought the car maybe they forgot to plug it back in after the mechanic finish working on it?? But I did not see any cluster lights on with it unplugged. Any ideas as to what can cause the hard starting after changing the glow plug?

Where does this go?

Who is online