Just bought my first CRD... service stickers? What's this?

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:03 am

I just purchased my first CRD. I say my first because I like it so much, I might keep looking for another. I noticed these stickers and I'm hoping someone can tell me what they mean.

This truck has the following stickers on the radiator core support:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:19 am

In the top picture, the sticker indicates that the F31 recall was performed.
Can't quite make out the numbers on the bottom recall sticker.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 10:02 am

The top # is 56044737AJ is the part # for a transmission control module and I think that's the same number as the one on the bottom of the 2n sticker. Why that appears twice with different dates I have no clue

The 1st # on the 2n sticker appears to be 56044?62ce but I cannot find a corresponding # in the parts fiche.

I suspect this relates to the F-37 reprogramming of the ECU to reduce HP and torque and the TCM to change the shift points plus check the torque converter. Essentially detuning the engine/tranny to protect a weakish torque converter.

A dealer should, for free, be able to pull up the vehicle data sheet and tell you for sure. Also you can go to the Jeep web site area for owners and with our VIN see if there are any outstanding recalls.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 10:24 am

flash7210 wrote:

In the top picture, the sticker indicates that the F31 recall was performed.
Can't quite make out the numbers on the bottom recall sticker.

Thank you.

It looks like the one on bottom is the F37 Recall. I can make out the 18 and the 06 on the TSB code.

F37 DEC 06 Recall - Torque Converter & Reprogram ECM/TCM - also referred to as TSB 18-023-06

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 10:27 am

papaindigo wrote:

The top # is 56044737AJ is the part # for a transmission control module and I think that's the same number as the one on the bottom of the 2n sticker. Why that appears twice with different dates I have no clue

The 1st # on the 2n sticker appears to be 56044?62ce but I cannot find a corresponding # in the parts fiche.

I suspect this relates to the F-37 reprogramming of the ECU to reduce HP and torque and the TCM to change the shift points plus check the torque converter. Essentially detuning the engine/tranny to protect a weakish torque converter.

A dealer should, for free, be able to pull up the vehicle data sheet and tell you for sure. Also you can go to the Jeep web site area for owners and with our VIN see if there are any outstanding recalls.

So the factory didn't actually replace these torque converters? They just detuned all of them if they got the chance?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 11:15 am

Definitely maybe they replaced the TC or maybe they did not. The first few 05 CRDs came with a TC that had some sort of plastic part the destructed shortly after leaving the lot so all of those got replaced under F-37. All other CRDs that went thru F-37 a) got an ECU detune; b) were supposed (I say that because in some cases for whatever reason this step was not always done, I know as I had one - if this step was done then your final shift point was raised from ca. 58mph to ca. 62mph) to have the tranny shift points changed; and c) the TC was "inspected" presumably by a test drive and only replaced, with a stock TC not the Euro one that came out in 07, if necessary.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 11:44 am

papaindigo wrote:

Definitely maybe they replaced the TC or maybe they did not. The first few 05 CRDs came with a TC that had some sort of plastic part the destructed shortly after leaving the lot so all of those got replaced under F-37. All other CRDs that went thru F-37 a) got an ECU detune; b) were supposed (I say that because in some cases for whatever reason this step was not always done, I know as I had one - if this step was done then your final shift point was raised from ca. 58mph to ca. 62mph) to have the tranny shift points changed; and c) the TC was "inspected" presumably by a test drive and only replaced, with a stock TC not the Euro one that came out in 07, if necessary.

So if I'm understanding you correctly, there's a high likelihood that my TC is the original one and that I'll want to replace it before getting it flashed? I'll try to visit the Dodge dealership here locally and see if they have any records indicating if the TC was replaced or not.

Carfax indicated all kinds of service reported over the life of the truck which was performed by a Jeep/Dodge/Chrysler dealership.

Should I plan on getting the Trans computer reprogrammed and the ECU reprogrammed too?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 12:04 pm

Your very 1st priority is being sure the timing belt job has been done and when. All else comes later.

As to your torque converter. Chances are that it's the stock CRD TC (not the very early 05 one but the one used from after that to the end of the 06 model run). Whether or not it was replaced as part of the F-37 really doesn't matter unless you can find a record that somehow, extremely rare but not unknown, the service was done after the 07 models came out and the TC was "accidentally" replaced with a Euro TC. IMHO if the TC that's in there now doesn't shudder under load then at most you need a fluid (ATF+4) and filter change after which drive it and service it until it fails at which point upgrade to a Euro or Suncoast. No need to swap out now unless you have $s laying around or get the GDE stage II turbo like I did.

If and only if you confirm the TB job has been done then I'd get a GDE ECU tune of your choice, the EcoTune is a good one and my son's 06 quite happily did a cross country run fully loaded inside including 2 adults pulling ca 2,500 lbs of loaded Uhaul trailer with that tune. The GDE TCM tune is nice in that it restores the pre F-37 shift pattern but won't produce much mpg gain unless you spend a fair amount of time driving below 57mph. I'd put off the TCM tune until you have done more obvious things like Samcos, brakes, tires, airbox to turbo hose if torn on bottom just in front of turbo, etc.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 12:16 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Your very 1st priority is being sure the timing belt job has been done and when. All else comes later.

As to your torque converter. Chances are that it's the stock CRD TC (not the very early 05 one but the one used from after that to the end of the 06 model run). Whether or not it was replaced as part of the F-37 really doesn't matter unless you can find a record that somehow, extremely rare but not unknown, the service was done after the 07 models came out and the TC was "accidentally" replaced with a Euro TC. IMHO if the TC that's in there now doesn't shudder under load then at most you need a fluid (ATF+4) and filter change after which drive it and service it until it fails at which point upgrade to a Euro or Suncoast. No need to swap out now unless you have $s laying around or get the GDE stage II turbo like I did.

If and only if you confirm the TB job has been done then I'd get a GDE ECU tune of your choice, the EcoTune is a good one and my son's 06 quite happily did a cross country run fully loaded inside including 2 adults pulling ca 2,500 lbs of loaded Uhaul trailer with that tune. The GDE TCM tune is nice in that it restores the pre F-37 shift pattern but won't produce much mpg gain unless you spend a fair amount of time driving below 57mph. I'd put off the TCM tune until you have done more obvious things like Samcos, brakes, tires, airbox to turbo hose if torn on bottom just in front of turbo, etc.

I know that the TB service is crucial. In the other thread as well, I mentioned that the Dodge/Jeep dealership that is implicated in performing service for the original owner has been contacted. The nice lady who unfortunately took my call seemed happy to put those records together for me and email them over. So I'll know if the TB was performed by a factory service dept here by the end of the day.

Thanks. for all your help.

I have the cash to do whatever it needs and the tools and time to get it done right. So throw it all at me. This is going to be a daily driver for work. Reliability and economy are most important. I don't expect to do much off road driving if any. Maybe wet grass or dirt.

Do you have an online supplier that you recommend for the motor mounts? Motor mounts are definitely on my menu. I can tell that these are shot.

Shocks, brakes, tires, alignment, tranny fluid, transfer case fluid, front and rear diff. I'm on deck for all of it.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 1:11 pm

In some cases if you shop around a bit you can do better and in some cases if you are in good with the parts folks at the local dealer you can match online prices since there is no shipping. However all it all the best single online supplier for parts is idParts (http://idparts.com/catalog/index.php?fi ... ehicle=124) and for tunes is GDE (http://www.greendieselengineering.com/g ... ethod=home) although occasionally Keith at GDE has really super deals, not advertised, on things like injectors or turbos.

FYI the heat shield on the passenger side motor mount (at least I think that's the side with the heat shield) can be swapped onto a new mount so don't spend extra $ getting a new mount with the heat shield preinstalled.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:07 pm

FYI: If you re-flash your ECM and add additional power and / or torque, a stock torque converter will not handle it! It will slip and chatter under the higher load values. Be prepared to invest in a better TC like a Suncoast if you up the power levels beyond what the stock or Euro TC will handle. :roll:

You can read the thread on this forum on how to re-flash the ECM yourself if you are inclined to perform your own modifications and performance enhancements. Some on this list have done this including myself with great success.
Link: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418 Several very knowledgeable people on this list who know how to mode the ECM maps and disable DTC's when removing or modifying emission parts. :jester:

Consider removing or disabling the EGR crap ASAP if you do not have to have to undergo routine emission inspections, your motor will love you for doing this. If you can remove the EGR, consider doing the Weeks FCV elimination kit at the same time, makes things a whole lot cleaner and adds some performance gains at the same time. :BANANA:

If you have any questions about any of this, just ask, there are knowledgeable people on this list that can answer most any question you have. :JEEPIN:

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:21 pm

Thank you. Annual emissions inspections are required so I need to be careful about how I modify this truck. Will the GDE Eco tune be okay? The one that reduces the power when in torque converter lock up?

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

DFWBIOFUELS2 wrote:

Thank you. Annual emissions inspections are required so I need to be careful about how I modify this truck. Will the GDE Eco tune be okay? The one that reduces the power when in torque converter lock up?

yes

mtnmed71 · **Joined:** Thu Feb 27, 2014 6:17 pm **Posts:** 20

DFWBIOFUELS2 wrote:

I have the cash to do whatever it needs and the tools and time to get it done right. So throw it all at me. This is going to be a daily driver for work. Reliability and economy are most important. I don't expect to do much off road driving if any. Maybe wet grass or dirt.

Do you have an online supplier that you recommend for the motor mounts? Motor mounts are definitely on my menu. I can tell that these are shot.

Shocks, brakes, tires, alignment, tranny fluid, transfer case fluid, front and rear diff. I'm on deck for all of it.

Knowing what I know now, I would have changed out the glow plugs when I did the timing belt at 100,000. My #1 cylinder glow plug tip broke off in the engine; I was lucky and it passed. However, I believe this is a huge risk. If you have the money, put the new 5v system in it as well as the in-tank lift pump. Except for the typical stuff and the lift pump, I haven't done much to mine - 173,000 so far.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:46 pm

How long do these engines and transmissions last if treated right?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 2:25 pm

Sort of depends on what you mean by treated right. Assuming you religiously follow factory service recommendations (mileage/time/fluid types) and fix things that wear out on a regular basis then life span can be a long time. Steps you can take to make it a longer time include a GDE ECU tune that, among other things, substantially reduces soot input to the intake system and replacement of the ceramic glow plugs (tips are somewhat prone to breaking, if you get a glow plug CEL replace immediately, and causing bad things to happen to the engine/turbo internals on the way out thru the exhaust). Generally, no flaming please, I'm not a big fan of asking any vehicle to do things it's not designed for, yes I know I have a "hot" turbo but I don't push it much, so I'd recommend against trying to hot rod the CRD or turn it into a monster off road Jeep, there are better platforms for both actions.

Life well up into 6 figure mileage is certainly possible if not probable on the other hand my cherry new off the dealer lot to me 05 CRD sport was totaled at ca. 16,400 miles because I stopped for the red light and the medium large dump truck with a load of 6 or so yards of dirt that was behind me did not stop. Engine still ran and tranny would engage but...

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 3:55 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Sort of depends on what you mean by treated right. Assuming you religiously follow factory service recommendations (mileage/time/fluid types) and fix things that wear out on a regular basis then life span can be a long time. Steps you can take to make it a longer time include a GDE ECU tune that, among other things, substantially reduces soot input to the intake system and replacement of the ceramic glow plugs (tips are somewhat prone to breaking, if you get a glow plug CEL replace immediately, and causing bad things to happen to the engine/turbo internals on the way out thru the exhaust). Generally, no flaming please, I'm not a big fan of asking any vehicle to do things it's not designed for, yes I know I have a "hot" turbo but I don't push it much, so I'd recommend against trying to hot rod the CRD or turn it into a monster off road Jeep, there are better platforms for both actions.

Life well up into 6 figure mileage is certainly possible if not probable on the other hand my cherry new off the dealer lot to me 05 CRD sport was totaled at ca. 16,400 miles because I stopped for the red light and the medium large dump truck with a load of 6 or so yards of dirt that was behind me did not stop. Engine still ran and tranny would engage but...

That poor jeep doesn't look too "cherry", lol, that's not yours, right?

mtnmed71 · **Joined:** Thu Feb 27, 2014 6:17 pm **Posts:** 20

DFWBIOFUELS2 wrote:

How long do these engines and transmissions last if treated right?

The VM 2.8 CRD - Unknown; There were about 15,000 or so Liberty CRDs made and there are a few out there over 200,000. The diesel, if maintained, should outlast the car. Should, being the key word. I know my ISB Cummins will go 500,000 because there are numerous examples of them all over the place. That is not the case with our Liberty...yet.

The 545RFE transmission can go over 200,000 behind the Hemi in the Dodge Ram and they typically go over 150,000 with heavy use; it is regarded as a durable 1/2 ton transmission.

That said, a stupid part failure, can wreck your whole day.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 6:49 pm

From a preventative standpoint, I will order the GDE flash tuner and Eco tune. I'll stay on top of all maintenance.

Thanks guys. The NOOB guide is great. Truck seems to be running fine. Just needs motor mounts.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:08 pm

There have been very few posts here about complete engine failure. And even fewer transmission failures.

Most of the engine problems have been related to rocker arms and head gaskets. Some have posted about turbo failures, which is sometimes followed by engine failure, but if if you catch the turbo problem early enough the rest of the engine can survive.

Turbo cool-down time is important!

The transmission will develop some annoying features but as long as you keep the fluid filled to the top mark (+ half a quart) you should be ok.
However the torque converter has been a problem for many folks.
As long as the transmission is shifting firmly and when it's supposed to, you will be ok.

Just bought my first CRD... service stickers? What's this?

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