Redtop Battery Question

irunmiles · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:43 am

My original factory Redtop lasted almost 8 years. I replaced it with a Redtop from Advanced Auto, and the new battery died after a year and would not hold a charge. Advanced Auto replaced it, and now after another year the replacement Redtop will not hold a charge. To their credit, Advanced Auto provided a third battery which I've installed. So I'm on my third replacement Redtop in the past two years. Is there possibly a vehicle problem that I should investigate? I find it hard to believe that I had two bad batteries.

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:12 am

irunmiles wrote:

My original factory Redtop lasted almost 8 years. I replaced it with a Redtop from Advanced Auto, and the new battery died after a year and would not hold a charge. Advanced Auto replaced it, and now after another year the replacement Redtop will not hold a charge. To their credit, Advanced Auto provided a third battery which I've installed. So I'm on my third replacement Redtop in the past two years. Is there possibly a vehicle problem that I should investigate? I find it hard to believe that I had two bad batteries.

The alternators on these have had issues, but there is a known issue with the redtop batteries, and is the primary reason many of us have gone to AGM batteries. Many forum members like the Sears P-1.

I would change both of your relays in the fuse box. The ASD Relay and the one beside it that looks exactly like it. That's never a bad idea, and I've personally made it a part of every 3rd oil change.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:56 am

Newer manufacture RedTops are known for poor life and equally poor warranty. The "book" notwithstanding any quality Group 34 AGM battery with a minimum of 700CCA, which is OEM, or better 800CCA+ will fit if installed with the +- poles in the stock position. Technically the OEM battery is a Group 34R (poles reversed) but there is enough length to use a standard Group 34 although the - wire end may need to be bent slightly.

The Sears P-1 is pricey and may or may not still be available. Costco apparently has a good battery as does Interstate.

Be advised per the "book" some discount vendors are more than a bit reluctant to install a regular Group 34 battery. In fact I've been told only an OEM battery will fit which is horse hockey. If you run into that just buy the battery and install it yourself.

flman · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2014 6:36 pm

I put red tops in both my jeeps about 3 years ago with no issue, so you might have a charging problem or a parasitic drain to the battery.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2014 6:48 pm

flman wrote:

I put red tops in both my jeeps about 3 years ago with no issue, so you might have a charging problem or a parasitic drain to the battery.

With how Johnson controls runs optima now your lucky to get 1 year out of them.

irunmiles · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2014 9:35 pm

How do I determine if I have a charging problem or a parasitic drain?

flman · **Posted:** Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:55 am

irunmiles wrote:

How do I determine if I have a charging problem or a parasitic drain?

With it running, put a meter on the battery, you should be getting about 13.7 volts from the alternator, if it is a lot higher or lower then this you need to ask why?

You can test for the parasite with an amp meter in line by pulling one of the terminals and connect the meter to the battery and the other lead to the connector to complete the circuit, it should not be a lot of amps with key out of ignition and doors shut. I am not sure of the amp load, I just use judgment here.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Aug 05, 2014 9:08 am

I had a red top on the crd and it was perfectly fine for 3years, I replaced it at the beginning of the year with 2 red tops new due to converting to dual batteries. On the crd, I haven't had an issue with red tops. On the Cherokee, also with dual batteries, replaced on Jan 2013, the radio wouldn't start with the engine off, the batteries have under 12 volt, but once I start the engine, everything is good. On the Cherokee, the alt is almost new, a 200 amp mean green. Pretty much Cherokee batteries don't hold the power, so I would conclude it's a matter of luck, you may get a great optima that lasts 3+ years, or some pos that would barely make it a year or so. The only reason I like optima is due to vibration resistance versus normal batteries, but quite honestly, I'm not sure I'll go with optima from now on...

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:33 am

irunmiles wrote:

How do I determine if I have a charging problem or a parasitic drain?

With engine running and no load(all electronics off) check the voltage at the battery,should be between 13.2 and 14.8 volts,the target is between 14 and 14.8 volts with no load.Then turn on all electrical accessories and check the voltage again,should above 13.2 volts.Try both above again with engine at 1500rpm's and you should see a little higher readings but never above 14.9 volts.

For a draw you will need a good amp clamp and clamp it around the positive battery cable going to the fuse box(not the one going to the starter).Key off you should see less then 100ma's after 10mins or so,if you have more start pulling fuses one at a time and watch the ma draw to find the circuit that is the problem.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Aug 06, 2014 12:04 am

With amp claw measured at alt positive wire and all accessories on (headlights, radio, fan at max, lift fuel pump, top light bar 4x55w bulbs, 2x100w auxiliary lights) I think I got somewhere around 30 some amps, with the custom 16 inch e-fan puller and 2x7inch pushers on around 50 some, I'll measure again if you want since I don't remember the exact values.

What tj said, to measure at the battery plus is good to see the amp draw from the battery, measuring the alt plus shows how much power the alt puts out since at some point, if you keep adding power consumers, the alt will reach its charging limit and stop charging (i.e. the value you read with the amp claw will get constant at some point, as you keep adding power consumers while the battery plus reading will keep increasing to compensate the draw - so the battery will not charge at this point), so you'll see a difference between alt plus and battery plus.

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Wed Aug 06, 2014 4:16 am

Red top manufacturing has been done in Mexico for several years and the quality went in the toilet.

A Red Top IS an AGM battery, but Red tops are junk anymore.

Buy the best Sears battery you can afford, they stand by their product, and they are everywhere if you have a failure away from home.

Smacker · **Posted:** Wed Aug 06, 2014 9:46 am

Just Checked my reciepts and found Original red top lasted 4 years and 125000 mi. Second red top from Advance still strong since 2009. must be lucky and got a good one. Knock on wood. Replaced alternator 03/2013, ( Duralast from Autozone $144.99)

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 06, 2014 10:37 am

I had the red top in when I bought mine in August 2009 and it died in November 2009 when it got the first cold morning. I then got a Advance Auto gold battery. that lasted to summer 2012. They replaced it under warranty with a little complaining on my part required. Then last winter when it was extremely cold in PA for several weeks at a time it was replaced several times. even with the block heater on all night the junk battery could not fire the engine in the morning. I was able to get a full refund of the retail price from advanced and I got a Sears Platinum P1 group 34. yes it is expensive, 2x the price of the Advance Auto Gold battery but my Jeep started at 5 degree F with out being plugged in.

the quality and being sure it will start and not strand out or at home when you need to go is worth it.

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