Remanufactured long blocks $3500

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 19, 2014 6:35 pm

I was searching some engine replacement options and came across this:

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/sho ... ct=4584906

I was wondering what the differences where between the export and domestic versions. Especially since it's nearly $2000 difference. The price of the export models is close to reasonable.

R3014014AC which doesn't mention being for export is $5500

RX170766AA which is for "export" is $3500

Both share this number:05170766AA under the "Stock code" section.

Thoughts?

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jan 19, 2014 9:53 pm

Most likely there is zero difference... But they won't sell you the export version in the states without a BIG fight.

samse2101 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:03 am

Just need a VIN of a export CRD.... :wink:

sparks_vfr · **Posted:** Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:49 am

samse2101 wrote:

Just need a VIN of a export CRD.... :wink:

If you need one, let me know and will PM it to you

Glend · **Posted:** Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:56 pm

I think they would be able to tell from the shipping address that it is not for an Export, regardless of what VIN you provide.

cerich · **Posted:** Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:22 pm

you just tell them it's freight forwarding address

dac44444 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 17, 2014 4:15 pm

So did it work?

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 17, 2014 10:42 pm

I didn't follow through with it. I did put in a part request for the export block, and was told I couldn't buy it with my vin #. The guy couldn't tell me what the differences were between the long blocks.

I wound up doing my own re-man on my block.

eherrle · **Posted:** Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:36 pm

I just developed a bad case of rod knock so I'm going this route if anyone wants to loan out an export VIN # I'll let everyone know how I make out. $ 3,223 + a core charge.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Mar 15, 2015 8:03 pm

Ouch, sorry about that. Sounds like you will want to PM Sparks_vfr and ask for his vin to provide them. I wish you the absolute best of luck.

If that doesn't pan out, maybe you can get your hands on a block through car-part.com and eat the core - save yours.

If the only problem you are having is rod knock though... Why replace the entire block? It is designed to be rebuilt from exactly this type of failure, just by replacing the cylinder liners and pistons and the crank and bearings. You may not even need to replace everything, depending on the overall condition. IDparts.com has just about everything you might need, or vmdieselspecialist.co.uk (also .com) can help you out - possibly with even better pricing, but the shipping sucks.

I made the mistake when my first engine ate it, I didn't hang onto the block and try to rebuild it, and I didn't know about either one of these amazing parts sources. If I knew then, what I know now.... I could have saved a TON of money and it wouldn't have involved 15 minutes or a lizard pushing insurance!

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 15, 2015 10:51 pm

Honestly, if you can get the reman'd engine for that price it's worth it rather than rebuilding your own. I didn't look into it enough, and didn't have the cash at the time. I started buying parts as I could afford them until I had everything together.

Definitely let us know how you did. I'm tempted to start saving up for one to put on the shelf for later.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 6:56 am

eherrle wrote:

I just developed a bad case of rod knock so I'm going this route if anyone wants to loan out an export VIN # I'll let everyone know how I make out. $ 3,223 + a core charge.

Not that i doubt you have rod knock, but how can you hear rod knock over the normal knocking sounds of a diesel engine?

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 11:47 am

Allow me to enlighten you.

Rod knocking CRD, just a couple idling minutes away from ejecting a rod through the side of the block:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5447172/jeep-engine.mov

Broken Rocker CRD (not mine, one that I worked on):
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5447172/CRD-Before.mp4

And the same CRD, after. Notice the flare when it starts up, that is the trademark GDE tune RPM flare.
This is how a happy CRD ***SHOULD*** sound. Nice smooth idle.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5447172/CRD-After.mp4

eherrle · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 1:59 pm

GREAT VIDEO's! Rod knock wins!

Here’s the Story;
2006 CRD with 190K miles. Owned since it came off the line, one of the last ones built in Toledo. Never any problems except for normal ware & tare items. TB changed @ 140K (all highway miles).
16 months back the Turbo started to go (No. it went). Whining & intermittent oil blowing out.

I coasted down 40 miles of mountain at idle occasional use of power and found 2 Qt’s of oil left at the finish. Moral: if the turbo fails even a little shut the car off!

Replaced the Turbo with a cheap Chinese knock-off which I might add works perfectly. Total investment, my time and $425.00.

Drove the Jeep for about a year and a half. Out running errands, shut the Jeep off, when I started it the sound was that of someone hitting the block with a 3-pound hand sledge in perfect time with the engine, and some balck smoke with loss of some power.

My mechanic feels that it’s the #2 bearing and who knows what its hit with the slapping noise.

The Question? Rebuild or replace?

Keep in mind I’m located on the Big Island of Hawaii so logistics can be interesting. But if any good mechanics are looking for an all-expense paid trip to the island I’m willing to talk.

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 3:08 pm

eherrle wrote:

GREAT VIDEO's! Rod knock wins!

Here’s the Story;
2006 CRD with 190K miles. Owned since it came off the line, one of the last ones built in Toledo. Never any problems except for normal ware & tare items. TB changed @ 140K (all highway miles).
16 months back the Turbo started to go (No. it went). Whining & intermittent oil blowing out.

I coasted down 40 miles of mountain at idle occasional use of power and found 2 Qt’s of oil left at the finish. Moral: if the turbo fails even a little shut the car off!

Replaced the Turbo with a cheap Chinese knock-off which I might add works perfectly. Total investment, my time and $425.00.

Drove the Jeep for about a year and a half. Out running errands, shut the Jeep off, when I started it the sound was that of someone hitting the block with a 3-pound hand sledge in perfect time with the engine, and some balck smoke with loss of some power.

My mechanic feels that it’s the #2 bearing and who knows what its hit with the slapping noise.

The Question? Rebuild or replace?

Keep in mind I’m located on the Big Island of Hawaii so logistics can be interesting. But if any good mechanics are looking for an all-expense paid trip to the island I’m willing to talk.

I guess it depends on how complete of a rebuild job you want. Before you go too crazy, I'd make sure it's not a failed rocker. Mine was pretty loud and sounded like you described.

This isn't mine, but the sound was very similar.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uMv4zLtBzM

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 3:14 pm

eherrle wrote:

Keep in mind I’m located on the Big Island of Hawaii so logistics can be interesting. But if any good mechanics are looking for an all-expense paid trip to the island I’m willing to talk.

Well hello there... :5SHOTS:

If someone else is skilled enough to pull the motor out, I might be insane enough to try my hand at the actual rebuilding of the bottom end. I don't have the skills to pull the entire motor (or maybe I do, but I've never done it) but the bottom end should be fairly straightforward.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 3:21 pm

eherrle wrote:

I just developed a bad case of rod knock so I'm going this route if anyone wants to loan out an export VIN # I'll let everyone know how I make out. $ 3,223 + a core charge.

I've got a nice long block that I'd sell for a lot less than Chrysler, and you could forget about the core charge/return (unless you wanted to get rid of it, then we could work out a core charge), but you wouldn't have the warranty. It has 88k miles and you can see the cylinder walls before I button it up to verify that there's no noticeable wear.

eherrle · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 4:23 pm

I forgot this; if you disable the #2 injector the noise is considerably less.

Part of the problem is getting the correct diagnosis prior to going off in the wrong direction.

Mahalo for all the input!

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 4:48 pm

hmm, sounds like less pressure on a bad bearing to me

Remanufactured long blocks $3500

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