Why not to put oil back into your intake

tedder · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:19 pm **Posts:** 137

Been putting in Provents on my 2 CRD's and found this on one of them. Luckily I think it broke when I was removing it.

https://scontent-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11165174_836783159692341_8424241114106473285_n.jpg?oh=f91d91c5f21f27154b91571b845dc85e&oe=55CBA281

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun May 03, 2015 9:37 pm

Another reason not to; oil will build up over time in the bottom of the CAC (intercooler) as it is the low point in the system. A ProVent or Racor CCV filter system prevents this.... :wink:

A bunch of oil accumulation getting sucked into a diesel motor when you get on it hard can get real interesting and scary real fast! Ask me how I know before I done a EHM and then later migrated to the ProVent System...
Thought the darn accelerator pedal was stuck on the floor; it was not, but that Jeep was headed down the road fast and bellowing a bunch of smoke behind me...and I was wondering now how am I going to stop this thing! Luckly for me, I had plenty of open road in front of me to let it finish it's little flushing...

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun May 03, 2015 9:46 pm

Is the provent or the other one shaped to where you could easily "vacuum" the fumes to the intake with a large hose? I'd like to make something that keeps the oil in the engine, AND sucks the fumes in to the intake. Reason being, I'm a severe asthmatic and can't breath with any exhaust or crank case fumes under the hood (enough always makes it in to the cab to cause me problems).

I know I could pipe it to the airbox, but then you're slowing losing oil, which is lame.

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2015 6:32 am

IT probably broke when removing it. I've seen 2 of these since I've owned mine. It's a known failure point and had it broken prior to your removing it the performance of the vehicle would have told you prior to your finding it, I promise.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2015 10:00 am

Mountainman wrote:

Is the provent or the other one shaped to where you could easily "vacuum" the fumes to the intake with a large hose? I'd like to make something that keeps the oil in the engine, AND sucks the fumes in to the intake. Reason being, I'm a severe asthmatic and can't breath with any exhaust or crank case fumes under the hood (enough always makes it in to the cab to cause me problems).

I know I could pipe it to the airbox, but then you're slowing losing oil, which is lame.

That is exactly what the Provent system does, it filters out the liquid oil using centrifugal force and a internal coalescing filter which then allows the liquid to drain out of the bottom of the filter housing into a drain tube and the fumes are returned to the intake boot to be consumed by the motor (a closed system). The drain tube can be routed back into the motor as some on this list have opted to do that, does require some extra work. On mine, I simply routed the drain line to underneath the vehicle and put a small valve so that I can drain out the liquid about once a month. Filter does a very good job and no fumes, vapors, or smoke from CCV!!!! :wink:

Read all about it: http://www.cfpfilters.com/downloads/product_info/Mann/provent.pdf

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2015 1:33 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

Is the provent or the other one shaped to where you could easily "vacuum" the fumes to the intake with a large hose? I'd like to make something that keeps the oil in the engine, AND sucks the fumes in to the intake. Reason being, I'm a severe asthmatic and can't breath with any exhaust or crank case fumes under the hood (enough always makes it in to the cab to cause me problems).

I know I could pipe it to the airbox, but then you're slowing losing oil, which is lame.

That is exactly what the Provent system does, it filters out the liquid oil using centrifugal force and a internal coalescing filter which then allows the liquid to drain out of the bottom of the filter housing into a drain tube and the fumes are returned to the intake boot to be consumed by the motor (a closed system). The drain tube can be routed back into the motor as some on this list have opted to do that, does require some extra work. On mine, I simply routed the drain line to underneath the vehicle and put a small valve so that I can drain out the liquid about once a month. Filter does a very good job and no fumes, vapors, or smoke from CCV!!!! :wink:

Wow, and I made the silly assumption that they vented to the atmosphere! I would have bought one a year ago if I'd have known this. Many thanks WW!
I haven't seen any write-ups about how anyone routed the oil back into the crankcase. Do they tap a hole in the valve cover?
Read all about it: http://www.cfpfilters.com/downloads/product_info/Mann/provent.pdf

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2015 3:23 pm

Id parts used to have provent 200

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2015 3:29 pm

Regarding routing back the oil, there are many ways to do it. I have a hose going under the jeep with a release valve (I think idparts also has it, if not eBay). So I let the oil go on the road as it just spits out extra oil and when it reaches the 1/2 mark on the dipstick it stops. You need a release valve so engine won't ingest air from atmosphere when is negative pressure in the crankcase. Other options are: routing above oil level in the pan with release valve, routing under oil level without release valve. Your choice where you want to plug the oil hose, but if you choose the valve cover you may have some issues routing the hose due to high elevation of the valve cover in relation with the provent drain.

Patrick Henry · **Posted:** Tue May 05, 2015 12:46 am

I periodically drain my Provent drain line that is routed down below the engine compartment and fitted with a small drain valve. In cold weather when I open the drain valve I get a small slug of water from crankcase vapor condensation followed by oil. I'd rather not have that water put back into my oil pan.

flman · **Posted:** Tue May 05, 2015 7:46 am

And the intake el would have never, ever, ever broke from heat and the stress of movement at that point had it not been for the oil? :roll:

tedder · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:19 pm **Posts:** 137

Thanks for all the input. I just got the new hose from IDparts and installed it along with the Provent now all set for many more miles. I just put a drain hose on the provent and will drain it every time I change the oil.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue May 05, 2015 10:07 am

flman wrote:

And the intake el would have never, ever, ever broke from heat and the stress of movement at that point had it not been for the oil? :roll:

I think oil is a big accelerator in wear and tear for that rubber composition. My old rubber elbow looked very good, with no cracks, but I did have provent installed a while ago. Not to say would last forever, but all broken elbow pics I saw looked as the elbow had a lot of oil through.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue May 05, 2015 11:38 am

Patrick Henry wrote:

I periodically drain my Provent drain line that is routed down below the engine compartment and fitted with a small drain valve. In cold weather when I open the drain valve I get a small slug of water from crankcase vapor condensation followed by oil. I'd rather not have that water put back into my oil pan.

I agree. A fair amount of condensation accumulates that I would rather not route into the oil. On an OTR truck that runs all day and the oil stays hot enough to keep the oil free of water I can see tapping it into the oil pan, but on a daily driver? No. I got a small drain valve and when I see the clear hose is getting full I dump it in my used oil container.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue May 05, 2015 3:46 pm

CATCRD wrote:

Patrick Henry wrote:

I periodically drain my Provent drain line that is routed down below the engine compartment and fitted with a small drain valve. In cold weather when I open the drain valve I get a small slug of water from crankcase vapor condensation followed by oil. I'd rather not have that water put back into my oil pan.

I agree. A fair amount of condensation accumulates that I would rather not route into the oil. On an OTR truck that runs all day and the oil stays hot enough to keep the oil free of water I can see tapping it into the oil pan, but on a daily driver? No. I got a small drain valve and when I see the clear hose is getting full I dump it in my used oil container.

That's a very good point, regarding condensation. Even if I run the engine the whole day, the oil temps barely reach 200 degrees, unless on load like towing or going uphill. The only time I saw the oil at 220 was when driving on PA turnpike going uphill for tens of miles with 75-80mph.

flman · **Posted:** Tue May 05, 2015 4:32 pm

I wonder if Mr Bob would make a silicone intake hose? Sounds like he is game for any thing if you got the money?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue May 05, 2015 10:14 pm

tedder wrote:

Thanks for all the input. I just got the new hose from IDparts and installed it along with the Provent now all set for many more miles. I just put a drain hose on the provent and will drain it every time I change the oil.

Some advice, you may need to drain it more than just between oil changes; I found my drain tube full of oil with some water condensation at the bottom. So now I drain it about once each month just to be safe... :wink:

Why not to put oil back into your intake

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