I've been tolerating a vibration (shudder) at about 45-50MPH for a month now. Only feel it when drive train is under light load or more. My first thought was TC as I know these cars are prone to it but I can't understand why it would start now at 100k miles after completely trouble free TC operation to this point. Took it to a tire place who first suggested I balance the tires which I did, that didn't solve the problem. Took it to dealer who looked at it and said tires are starting to separate (6 years old and 50k miles so quite possible) so I took it back to the tire place and asked how they didn't pick it up during the balancing. Tire place is going to check their work and do a full inspection (at no cost) to rule it out next week. In the meantime I rotated my spare into each position to see if that would make it go away - I figure the chance of more than 1 starting to separate at the same time would be slim. Net result = still shuddering/virbation, so I doubt its the tires. Additionally if I am rolling along at 50mph vibrating and knock it into neutral with no change in speed the vibration goes way so i figure its got to be driveline. Engine mounts replaced 5k ago.

At one point a few weeks ago I got a P0700 (generic tranny code) that I cleared to see if it would come back. The code/CEL never did come back but my scanner can't read tranny codes so I'm not sure what the related code was. Now for the question - if I find a place with a scanner that can read tranny codes will that code still be there or by clearing the master 0700 code using my scanner will I have wiped the tranny code too?

Thanks all
Brett
Langley, BC, Canada.

I don't know what what type of driving you've been doing, but here's my educated guess on what is going on: 1) Torque Converter 2) U Joints 3) Other drive line issue. It's hard to tell without seeing it, however I also get shudder at those speeds when at low RPMs - this happens especially on hills (under 'light load" as you would say). The shudder on my '06 also sounds like it is less frequent than yours. Knowing the history of the stock torque converters on these rigs, that's the first place I'd look.

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport
GDE EcoTune w/ Hot Tune on stand by
Old Man EMU 2" Lift, upgraded control arms
SunCoast Torque Converter
HDS Model 001 Thermostat
Weeks Stage 1
Mann Provent 200
Fumoto Oil Valve

From your description u-joints is a very likely cause. It's a pretty common failure, I've had to change my rear twice in 100K. Both times the needles were completely disintegrated in one of the arms.

If you pop off the drive shaft you should be able to feel if the joint is gone.

If your scanner cannot read tranny codes I don't believe it will reset it.

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

"U" joints are certainly possible. Have you checked transmission fluid level? Odd things can happen if it's a bit low and this tranny apparently "likes" to be a bit overfilled (ATF+4 only)

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks guys.

Have not checked the u-joints. Will try that next and report back.

I have checked the tranny and front/rear diff fluids. All good.

Thanks
BR

i had vibration i removed prop shaft vibration still present , noise like diff piñon bearing i thought , so i switched tires front to back jeep runs smooth no more noise

Back from Kal-tire. They did a follow up inspection at no charge. They seem quite sure its the struts.

Thinking I might as well do springs/mounts at the same time. Thinking of a lift while im in there.