Which is better for a boost gauge?

Mechanical with tubing to some port on the intake?

or

Electrical with wiring and some sort of sensor?

I realize that in both cases I will have to drill a port somewhere into the the intake manifold.

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U.S. Army Retired

I installed a Glowshift gauge, which is electrical with a sensor. I drilled turbo for the sensor not the intake. Not sure if it is the best place to install but I did not want to be drilling my intake. Seems to work fine.

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2006 Liberty CRD 275K, JBA 2.5 with Fox Shocks, GDE Turbo Kit, GDE TCM Tune, Suncoast TC, OEM fuel filter housing converted to fit Caterpillar Fuel Filter 1R-0749, OEM themostat housing modified to accept Hemi 203 F thermostat.

The correct location should be in the manifold because you want to measure what the engine sees. There is a pressure loss from the time it leaves the turbo until it sees a valve.

The best way to drill and tap the manifold is to take the intake elbow off, stuff a rag in there and drill your hole and inch or two up from where the manifold bolts on. Tap it with a 1/4" npt tap and then pull the rag and shavings out. This how I did nine and didn't have any problems.

There's literally no difference mounting wise between a mechanical and electrical gauge. You still have to route something from the engine, thru the firewall, and up to your gauge. You also have to wire the gauge in itself, it's really personal preference, but I prefer electrical, theres no chance of any leaks and keeps the look more factory like.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

Personally I wouldn't risk drilling into the manifold with the shavings or want of future removal just to have an idea of the loss you receive from the manifold inlet flange etc. You will always have losses, and knowing losses you can't change helps you none. I also wouldn't drill into the turbo for the same basic install risk, not to mention I would want my reading AFTER the intercooler drop. You'd be much better off to remove and tap the intake elbow prior to the manifold.

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'05 Liberty Limited CRD - 210,000 miles.
Dark khaki, loaded
Generic oil catch tank, home brew tune w/ emissions deletes, rear "sway bar" delete, etc.

I have mechanical ISSPROs in my 12 valve Dodge. I do prefer mechanical gauges, but I will be installing an electronic 3 in 1 Glowshift in my wife's CRD. There just isn't enough room in the Liberty for 3 separate gauges. It will measure EGT, boost and engine oil pressure. I attached a link below.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/3in1-EGT ... ssure.aspx

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.

I think it doesn't matter, electronic gauge is easier to install as there are just wires you have to worry about. Mechanical gauges need a snubber which stabilizes the pulsation caused by valve opening. Some gauges come with snubber, some don't. I one have a mechanical one but if I'd have to put a new one I'd go with an electronic.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.