Need input on Weeks kit install

sodak748 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:48 pm **Posts:** 2

I hate to be the guy who asks questions on a forum after having not contributed anything myself, but I could really use some input right now. I only recently discovered this forum
and it was here that I learned about the Weeks kit to remove the EGR/FCV. I am in the process of installing that now, but now I have a concern. When I pulled the factory elbow
off of the intake I noticed a bunch of thick gunk sticking to the inner walls. I'm worried that the same gunk is also plastered into the entirety of the intake manifold causing airflow problems.
I have been getting a "Low Boost Pressure" code for about a year now. Several months ago I took the turbo out and and cleaned everything. I was thinking that maybe the vanes were
sticking closed or something. Truth be told, the turbo looked pretty good. I don't think I gained anything by cleaning the turbo. I was hoping to have this thing back together this evening
so that I can take an out-of-town trip with the Jeep tomorrow. But now I'm worried that I should take the intake off and take it somewhere to get cleaned. I feel like I'm behind the eight ball now
since I don't have the time to remove the intake(seems like A LOT of work.) I need this thing back on the road.

I took a couple of pics of the elbow. Is this normal deposit for a diesel? Would I be doing a huge disservice to myself if I slapped the kits on without pulling the intake? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I guess this is my introduction to the group. Hi everybody! 2006 CRD in South Dakota, my first Jeep.

http://i.imgur.com/CWAnHV0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/E22nbc3.jpg

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Aug 07, 2015 5:08 pm

Thats normal, this is not:

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Aug 07, 2015 5:35 pm

Welcome to the group. Have you had your timing belt replaced? You are WAY overdue on age if not, and the mileage doesn't matter anymore. If you need assistance with that or the rest of the engine, I am the travelling mechanic who specializes in this vehicle.

Now, your pictures. That isn't that much goop, nothing to worry about. It doesn't really spread beyond the main gallery of the intake - which the entire timing system and the top of the engine has to be disassembled to get the valve cover off - and the air in the intake runners is moving too fast to deposit anything there.

Your underboost code is likely from one of two places - the MAP sensor on the intake is the 4mm hex bolt and the connector is pointing toward the driver's fender. This can be cleaned with brake cleaner (use NO TOOLS OR BRUSHES) to get the goop off of it, and it will probably fight you while coming out. The other possible source of the underboost is the boost regulator on the passenger fender behind the airbox. This is the module with the small air filter underneath it.

Both are available from IDparts.com and the MAP sensor can be the $25 option rather than the OEM which is much more expensive. The $25 sensor is the same part from Bosch, just sold to GM instead of Chrysler.

sodak748 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:48 pm **Posts:** 2

geordi wrote:

Your underboost code is likely from one of two places - the MAP sensor on the intake is the 4mm hex bolt and the connector is pointing toward the driver's fender. This can be cleaned with brake cleaner (use NO TOOLS OR BRUSHES) to get the goop off of it, and it will probably fight you while coming out. The other possible source of the underboost is the boost regulator on the passenger fender behind the airbox. This is the module with the small air filter underneath it.

Wow, thanks for the quick response guys! I will check out these two things for the boost code. i did check that small filter on the boost module, and it wasn't clogged(looked like your run of the mill paper fuel filter to me), but if cleaning the MAP doesn't fix it, I will look there next. Allright, I'm back at it. I might have this thing back on the road tonight after all.

p.s. I was going to to do the timing belt this winter. I know it would make more sense to do it now since I'm half way there, but I got so much going on....(famous last words)

Thanks again

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Aug 07, 2015 11:07 pm

Are you a betting man?

Gates is the manufacturer of the belt. Their instruction is 6 years or 100k miles for the lifespan of the belt. You are now at potentially as much as 11 years now if you have an early build 2005, and no less than 9 years for a late build 2006. This is far beyond what Gates feels is acceptable. Flying me out to you to replace the belt will absolutely be cheaper than dealing with the broken rockers and a new belt and the unpredictability of the belt breaking (always will be the worst possible time) and then also deciding to add the studs at that time.

It is a giant gamble.

ShaqDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Aug 08, 2015 12:49 am

That's about what mine looked like. I installed the Weeks kit at 112k, but have had the EGR eliminated via the GDE Ecotune since 90k. I too worried about what the intake would look like, but it's been running great since the install.

As for the timing belt issue, definitely make sure that gets done professionally. It's a bit tricky, because many dealerships (commonly referred to on this forum as "stealerships") have mechanics that are unaware Jeep ever made a diesel version of the Liberty. Do yourself a favor and do research on mechanics before you get the job done. Geordi is one of the most knowledgeable on this subject, but flying him out might be a bit pricey.

There is a thread at the top of the page about "Trusted CRD Mechanics by State" that has some good references.

ShaqDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Aug 08, 2015 12:52 am

Just curious, what mileage are you at? Geordi makes a good point about the age of the belt, so either way it should be replaced immediately. That said, I had mine changed earlier this year at 106k, but I didn't feel good about pushing it that long.

Need input on Weeks kit install

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