No start. Cannot get fuel filter primed.

Erik.Briggs · **Joined:** Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:01 pm **Posts:** 22

I had my jeep apart for about 3-4 weeks doing a timing belt change along with a million other little things, cleaning everything while I was doing it. After I had completed the timing belt and I did a short test run and it started with no problems at all. Now I've reassembled it almost completely and it's cranking no problem but not starting. I've tried priming the fuel filter but cannot get to the point where the fuel spurts out for the life of me. I must have pumped it hundreds of times by now. When I pump with the nozzle loosened I can hear air coming out and it smells like diesel but I can't get to the point where I feel resistance when pushing and no matter how much I pump there is no release of air at the nozzle when I open it. Is this a sure sign of a leak? Why would it develop all of a sudden within 1-2 weeks of sitting? Is there any other diagnostics I can do? I haven't taken apart any of the fuel system so far. I noticed that the green plug that would go to the bottom of the filter is not plugged in and the filter still has the white place holder plug in it. Also the jeep has been parked on a slight incline (driveway). Could it be that the fuel shifted to the back of the fuel tank and the lines drained back to the tank? if so could I fill the tank up high enough that the fuel reached the intake and manually pump the fuel back up to the filter?

Any ideas?

Thanks guys for dealing with my exciting "adventures" lol :roll:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Sep 27, 2015 2:07 pm

put a charger on the battery, and crack an injector fuel line (carefully, using a rag over it!) then crank it in about 7 second increments, resting about 30 seconds I think (double checking how much time you need to let the starter cool off). And then crank away until it spits out a decent amount of fuel. Tighten fitting, and crank away several times if necessary until it starts.

Probably sucking air at the tank quick disconnect. Replace that fitting with a piece of the diesel rated fuel line and two hose clamps for a real fix, but that requires dropping the tank...

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Sep 27, 2015 2:09 pm

You may drain the battery and have to take a 30 minute brake for charging. It can take a while I've heard, although I never have to crank it more than 3-5 times for 7 seconds each

Erik.Briggs · **Joined:** Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:01 pm **Posts:** 22

Thanks for the super quick response. So I'm still new to working on this thing. I just need to loosen one of the nuts that connects the metal fuel lines to one of the injectors? Will loosening it be enough or do i have to back it off the injector? It seems like it may be difficult because its not flexible. And it doesn't matter which? The air will probably push out whichever place has the least resistance huh?

Thanks again for your help and dealing with my cluelessness lol

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Sep 27, 2015 2:40 pm

STOP I think you need to go back to simple basics before trying cracking the line on the injector rail. You say "When I pump with the nozzle loosened I can hear air coming out and it smells like diesel". If by that you mean you have cracked the bleeder screw and are pressing the priming plunger with the bleeder open you can continue to do that until you know what freezes over and never ever get any fuel. The proper method of bleeding the filter begins with the bleeder screw closed just like when bleeding brakes; press primer plunger say 5-10 times; crack bleeder (remember it's a steel bleeder in an aluminum head so be gentle) to let air escape (ideally slide a bit of clear vinyl tubing onto the bleeder so you can bleed into a catch can); close bleeder; repeat until fuel with no air comes out.

However, before you do this you say the white place holder plug is still on the bottom of the filter. That's not good as you are supposed to remove that plug and install the water in fuel sensor from you old filter in that location. I'm not even sure the white plug will adequately seal the bottom of the filter well enough to hold fuel. In any case get the WIF in there now before you bleed or you will just have to do it all over again.

PS do you have the gen 1 or 2 filter head? Gen 2 has a bright blue heater element plug on the driver's side (US). Gen 1 is known for having leak problems in that plug.

Erik.Briggs · **Joined:** Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:01 pm **Posts:** 22

Ok ok. I got the deets and this may help someone who encounters this situation.

It's my belief that the fuel filter head had a small leak that didn't bother me until I let it sit for long enough to allow vacuum loss and fuel to drain back towards the tank. It was the gen 1 filter head.

I replaced it with a gen 2 i had ready to go that I was waiting to install anyway. I was able to get fuel out within 15-20 pumps on an empty filter and got all the air out with a few go throughs of the bleeding procedure. By the way I was using the proper bleeding procedure I was just trying to leave it open and pump diagnostically to see if maybe something was wrong with the priming pump.

When I pulled the white plastic placeholder plug on the bottom of the old filter a tiny bit of fuel came out. The filter was almost empty. I'm not exactly sure where the leak was on the filter head/filter but that was the problem. Also somehow the white plug was holding fuel back. No fuel had leaked out.

When I got the fuel filter pushing out just fuel it was probably 3-5 seconds of cranking before it started. There was likely still a bit of air in the high pressure lines because after shutting it off and starting again it took about 2-3 seconds of cranking. On the third time I started it it was normal cranking time. I'm assuming that means it has been pushed through. It doesn't make any funky sounds running and revs evenly.

On a side note the new motor mounts made a HUGE difference in sound. When I climbed into the cab it was almost like the motor wasn't running compared to before. I've still gotta do the trans mount soon and see if that makes it even better.

Thanks all for your help and I'll let you know how it drives when it quits raining and I can put on the grill guard and fascia.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Sep 27, 2015 4:02 pm

cool, yeah, for future reference follow Papaindigos suggestions, and then to bleed the rail, just crack it loose maybe half of a turn at the rail, not injector, so it's well supported at the rail, and no need to risk damaging the injector. Plus, the adapter plug that goes into the injector will often come loose, and then it gets more complicated (another wrench required). just a 17mm should take care of bleeding the rail.

always keep in mind that the fuel pressure in that line can inject fuel into your skin and KILL you...

No start. Cannot get fuel filter primed.

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