Here goes. I just reassembled KJ after removing the front end to get at the timing belt only to find out it had been done already. Before I started to remove any plugs to sensors I disconnected the neg. terminal from the battery. I cleaned the MAP which was caked and the EGR which wasn't that bad. So everything is back together and now it won't crank. Locks and lights work but no crank. This is my first jeep let alone a diesel. Thanks for any help.

This is a common problem with several possible causes.

Make sure you have not knocked any leads off the Starter Solenoid.

Then the CRD requires a battery in excellent shape to turn the engine over.
Make sure your battery is good, the battery connections are clean and tight, the negative lead going to the chassis is clean and tight and the earthing strap grounding the engine to chassis is clean and tight both ends.

Then check if the motor cranks by starting it in "Neutral" rather than "Park"...the Park interlock may have failed which prevents the Starter Relay from energizing.

Try swap over the Starter Relay with an identical one next to it in the relay box under the hood.

Then make sure the Jeep is in Park or Neutral to make sure that you do not run over yourself.
Remove the Starter Relay...make a note of how the female pins inside the Relay socket are numbered.
Now briefly jumper pins 30 and 87 together inside the Starter Relay with a short piece of wire or a paper clip...provided that Fuse #8 (40 A) in the fuse box under the hood is OK then the engine has to turn over and if the key in the ignition is switched to Ignition ON then the engine should start and run.

This above procedure bypasses the stating interlocks namely the Park and Neutral Interlocks, bypasses the Starter Relay and importantly bypasses the Ignition Switch completely.

When you turn the ignition switch to "Start" you should feel that the key is spring-loaded ie. the key offers you some resistance. There is a very common problem that the Actuator Pin Assembly which is a rectangular rod that goes from the ignition barrel to the ignition switch itself starts to break... initially it is able to allow the ignition to turn ON but does not have the strength to do the final action of moving the ignition switch to Start.

You will need to remove the two plastic covers over the steering column....two female Torx screws.
You will see the ignition switch assembly is held in place on the side of the column by a smaller female Torx screw...older KJs use a normal Torx screw...newer KJs have a Security Torx screw there that require a Male Torx driver with a hole drilled down its center.

Remove this Torx screw and pull the ignition switch off...if you see bits of the Actuator Pin falling off then you have a broken Actuator pin...a common problem.
You can use a small flat screwdriver to turn the ignition switch...the engine should turn over and if the ignition key is in its normal slot...to enable SKIS and disable the steering lock then the engine should start and run and you can drive like that.

The Dealers do not carry the Actuator pin Assembly....you have to buy the whole Steering Column Assembly at a rediculous price! Fortunately there are many posts about where to obtain a new assembly from sources such as Dorman...do a search here for Actuator Pin Assembly to get more information. If you do not come right from the above advice... please post your KJs year and model so that we can look into the wiring diagrams!

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Thanks for the info.

Still have a gremlin problem! Charged the battery and the jeep turned over. Started and ran rough and stalled. Cranked it again and started rev it up a bit ideled and stalled again. Now I have an engine light. Now it cranks but won't start. Primed the filter head since I removed it. Little air. Fun thing is when I'm cranking the air bag light on the passenger side flickers. I wondering since I cleaned the map and the egr the computer is getting a different signal since the map was totally caked! At a loss.

What year and model is your KJ?
You need to get codes pulled to see what it is complaining about....fuel supply problems normaly do not post codes.

You need to check that you put all your connectors back in place...I believe the Injector #4 connector can easily be swapped over with the Map sensor or some other sensor in that area.

You need to be very careful when cleaning the MAP sensor...no toothbrushes or anything like that...spray with brake cleaner.
If it got damaged then that may be your engine light issue!

The later KJs have a red LED on the left side of the cluster for the SKIS anti-theft system...this LED should light for a few seconds when ignition is ON then go out. If the LED flashes or stays ON then there is an issue with the SKIS system.

The ASD relay can cause problems...swap it over with an identical near to it. While you are there check all the fuses in the fuse/relay box under the hood and all the fuses inside the cabin.

Camshaft sensor and Crankshaft sensor can fail and cause these problems...check the connectors on these sensors are on firmly. Replace these sensors with OEM parts only.

The 2006 LHD CRD has a known problem with the Fuel Filter Head Mounting Bracket having the wiring loom going behind the bracket where it can get crushed and damaged and short to chassis. If yours is a 2006 model then check that area carefully.

The 2006 models (maybe the 2005 also?) have a Front Control Module (FCM) which is a module located on the left front fender below and in front of the battery. This passes communication data to all electronic modules. This can get water, mud, sleet etc. splashed up on it so check the connector on it is not corroded.

Edit to add: I saw in your other post that this is a 2006 CRD...definitely check the Fuel Filter Head bracket is not damaging the harness and check the FCM module! I would also disconnect the battery and re-plug the connectors on the ECM Module a few times then put the connector back in place and connect up the battery!

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Thanks for the info. I'll check all my connections and behind the fuel head since I had it off. As for the map, I used brake clean no brush. I one consistent problem I been having is air in the fuel. I already swapped out the gen 1 to the gen 2 and still had the stalling problem. I did a search on the forum and read the lift pump info and eliminating the quick disconnect before dropping the tank. Thanks to everyone for they help.

Hello again from gremlin world. I checked all the fuses, connections, oil level, fully charged battery, bleed filter head and bought a code reader and come up with a p0700. Cleared codes and still won't start! Tryed to start it neutral still not firing up. Turned key on and off to cycle the pump still not lighting up! At a total loss now. Thanks again for any help.

I had this same issue for awhile. Replaced fuel head, dropped tank and replaced quick disconnect, and installed electric lift pump. Still had air in fuel issue. This started when I started using blended fuel. Switched gas stations and ran #2 again for awhile and havent had any issues since.

Dont know if this will help you but its worth a shot.

P0700 is a generic transmission code.

However, if it's not reading that the transmission is in park......

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

sounds like you have a fuel delivery problem , remove rubber fuel line (INLET) to cp3 pump put into container or clear water bottle push primer at fuel filter check if you getting steady fuel flow this is first step to check if fuel is getting to the cp3 pump

Ok I'll try the suggestions provided. Thanks again.

Billwill - great set of steps, thank you. I can avoid calling a tow truck and get my jeep home now. I suspect I have the ignition switch variety.