https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... sor-wheel/

Damm

Tomorrow I'm gonna try to blow up my turbo so I have an excuse to buy one

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U.S. Army Retired

I cant wait for someone to install one. I wanna see what sort of difference they make.

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05 CRD Sport - GDE EcoTune - Samcos - EGR Delete & Elbow kit - ARP Studs - Airtex E7181M

Kills me that I spent $1200 on an OEM one a while back.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

A few months late :/

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Sasquatch, please tell us about this no-coking of the oil.

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JBA 4" lift, IRO Tri-link w/ wwdiesel bracket, JBA sliders, 235/85-16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Mercedes Benz forged ultralight wheels, Weeks stage 1 and 2, Weeks lift pump and harness, Weeks battery tray and AGM battery, GDE tune, Suncoast TC, updated front pump, HDS 001 T-stat, ARP studs, Front and rear Detroit/Eaton Truetrac LSD.

I'm hoping this is more than just a stock turbo with a wicked wheel

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

at 2/3 the $$ I can't see it being a bad deal regardless.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Is this a ball bearing turbo? I also need to understand how "no oil coking" is achieved. Are all components US, Japanese, or western European made? Pardon my skepticism, but I have difficulty using inexpensive and reliable in the same sentence with turbocharger.

I may be the odd man out, but cost is not nearly as important to me as reliability. My wife's CRD has 98k miles on it and aside from the crappy power windows, it has been very reliable. I have spent a few thousand dollars on upgrades ensuring reliability for her (see my signature). I checked the turbocharger last Sunday when I installed the HDS-001 thermostat and found no axial movement and very little radial movement. I am hoping to get 150K miles from the stock turbo. When the time comes for replacement I want it to be the very last turbo I purchase.

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.

I agree... I looked into marketing turbochargers myself, and these is no way I can approach the kind of price advertised by Sasquatch Motorsports. I am trying to find a source of Garrett GT1756V turbochargers that GDE uses in their upgrade turbo kit, and my cost is almost double that of the retail price for the Sasquatch Motorsports option. How can Sasquatch sell a better than O.E. turbo for that kind of price, and make any profit at all?

Jeff, you're comparing a Garrett turbo with a different brand or with a custom made. Garrett is known to be expensive. Weeks does not advertise a Garrett turbo.

Side brand, proper cool down will make turbo last as long as the engine easy. Low egt and quality oil also. I have almost 140k and the turbo play is comparable to a new stock Garrett I bought as spare. A better turbo would be water-cooled and ball bearing.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/jeep-liberty-crd-replacement-turbocharger-with-billet-compressor-wheel/

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You won't win any dyno competitions with this turbo, that's not the point. The point is to improve on the factory design while also lowering the price. This is for the CRD owner who has a turbocharger failure and needs to get back on the road, and wants a better option than the pricey Garret. We've reduced the cost by $400-$500 while improving performance and mitigating the significant design flaws inherent in the factory Garret turbocharger design. We are backing it up with a 1 year manufacturer's warranty.



Ball bearing and/or water cooling would increase the cost significantly. It's a journal bearing, but it has been upgraded from a 270° thrust bearing to a full-face 360° thrust bearing. This offers improved long term wear characteristics compared to the Garret unit. A 360° thrust bearing is better for spreading out loads by distributing and supporting the complete thrust load placed on the shaft, whereas the 270° thrust washer found in the Garret unit covers only a portion of the shaft.




While the original turbo that was installed on the VM Motori 2.8L in Italy for the Jeep CRD has a threaded compressor wheel and has the Garrett name stamped on the compressor housing, Garrett denies they supplied this to VM Motori or even produced it. This is the turbo that has the coking issue and failed turbos. Garrett does acknowledge and does supply parts for the boreless version. This boreless turbo has no known coking issues in the oil system. Coking happens because the temps and the oil residue time are both higher than the stability limits of the lubrication. When we set out to improve on this situation of the 1st generation Garrett Turbo (the one that doesn’t exist) we reviewed the thermal insulation of supply, drain and vent lines in the oil system of the turbo. By modifying these, or increasing the thermal insulation, it significantly reduced deposits.



Does Jeep/Chrysler manufacture their vehicles in US? Actually they don’t manufacture anything, they assemble. They design the parts for their vehicles then subcontract all the manufacturing for each part all over world. Yet Jeep/Chrysler are considered the manufacturer.

Likewise, we are not buying a completed turbo from "Company X" because they have one sitting on a shelf somewhere in the South Pacific. We have designed several parts of the turbo and have brought them together as one. We have fixed the coking problem, added 360 thrust bearing (desperately needed) and added a CNC billet compressor wheel (along with a few other items). So, we are not forging and casting here in the USA, but it is designed and assembled here in the USA, similar to Jeep.


Thanks for your interest everyone!

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SasquatchParts.com

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Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
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Seth,
I think you missed the point of the question. I did not ask if the components are made solely in the USA. I asked if they are made in the US, Japan, or western Europe. I'm not just partial to these locations, but I am partial to quality. The quality of components coming from these locations are usually much higher than those coming from some other countries.......China for example.

But, I guess your seemingly evasive answer (at least evasive to me) is really my fault for not being direct. Therefore, I will be more direct with my question this time. Are any of the turbocharger components manufactured in China or any other Asian country besides Japan or any middle eastern countries?

Thanks.

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.

Coking is caused mainly from heat soaking through the shaft from the turbine wheel. The coking sticks the bearings to the shaft, these turbos use non floating bearings so once the they stick and spin, a rapid and violent catastrophe is usually the end result.
Some heat does soak from the turbine housing and into the center section, but this cools quickly since it is exposed to outside air.

A billet wheel does not make it "high flow", what was changed to make it high flow? The added tricks of extended tips and more aggressive inducer blade angles does move more air but at the expense of needing more drive pressure (backpressure) to power it.

Says 1 year warranty, is it sent back to sasquatch for repair? Or is a new one sent out? What about rebuilds?

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

So far, I have 180k miles on my stock turbo. Still going strong.

If I needed a replacement turbo, I'd buy the Sasquatch one.

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U.S. Army Retired

I will continue to see if I can find a supply of Garrett GT1756V turbochargers at a reasonable price. Green Diesel Engineering is probably going to stop offering the Turbo package unless they can find a new supply of the GT1756V turbos at a price point that makes their Turbo kit a viable option.

I totally understand Seth's product he is offering here, and the price looks real good. I just want to upgrade my rides if I can, and that means a turbo kit for me, (if I can ever afford it).

Or just wait until my ball bearing turbos come out, factory fit and finish but will spool like the gt17 but capable of 240hp.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

I agree, if my turbo blew up an I was in a pinch to get something back in there to get the jeep back on the road I would absolutely go this route.

But as dieselguy alluded too, the wicked wheel seems to just be a copy of the stock wheel, so essentially no added benefit.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I am interested... please P.M. me further about this.

I think my mechanic (MobileTech in Wilmington, NC) just installed one of these in my CRD. My cost was $770 and it came with a 1 year warranty. I can call him next week to find out for sure. Does the turbo have any external marks on it that would identify it as a Sasquatch turbo?

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2005 Jeep CRD - Completely stock with 100K miles (new turbo and timing belt 5/16).