Doing some work and need to know a few things.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Jun 02, 2016 11:03 pm

So I wanna do my timing belt coming up as it's long overdue. However, I plan on doing a turbo swap coming up, whether it's dieselguys or something else, so to prep for that I thought it may be a good time to do arp's, have the intake manifold cleaned out, and maybe do the rockers. Would it be a good idea to just do the head gasket while I'm in there? I dont seem to have any leaks, but who knows.

Also, are there specific tools that I should be renting from Weeks before I get into this? Specifically, will I need injector remover to get the manifold off for cleaning? What about the timing tool? Is it easier just to get the tool instead of using drill bits to lock everything?

Thanks for your help. We only have two cars so I gotta make sure this goes smoothly or I'm gunna be paying for a rental.

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:22 am

You might want to chat with geordi. My comments/thoughts:
1. if you are positive you don't have a head gasket leak you can probably just install ARP studs one at a time without removing head.
2. inspect rockers, if solid I wouldn't bother to replace
3. don't use drills for locator pins, too loose. See http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html for better substitutes (I've posted cam pin dimensions on CRD tech page. 6mm long shaft allen key is fine pin for flywheel, see 05 FSM for how to.
4. sometimes injectors come out easily without tool, sometimes not. Lots of Pblaster soaking helps. Don't forget new injector "O" rings and copper crush washers.
5. turbo removal REQUIRES at least 24 hrs soaking of turbo to manifold nuts. Those OEM studs are fragile, I'd replace with good grade 5 studs from any decent parts store and regular nuts/lock washers not OEM equivalent jam nuts.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:49 am

And dont buy the cheap set of timing tools on ebay.
I did and I regretted it.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:50 am

I'd wait till you have the turbo, as there is way more space with the valve cover removed to replace the turbo and will make the whole experience better. I'd check the turbo play first, you may not even need to bother replacing it. I'm close to 140k on mine and the play is almost like the new Garrett I have as spare. So obviously I didn't change it. May be a good idea to change the ckp sensor while you work. Also the cam sensor, so you have the peace of mind you won't need to later. Especially do the ckp if you replace the turbo, you'll have more space.

Injector removal is easy, provided you soak them in pb blaster when they are mounted in the engine. Once they start moving and look they get out, air pressure the pb blaster. You'll probably do an oil change anyways 100 miles after that, to clean any possible contamination from your work.

Timing pins are required in my opinion. Cam holder not so much but it may help having one. You can make yourself a cam holder "v" tool, like the
one vw has or the one used in beesvillebeefarm, or just buy one new from idparts.com.

If you don't have weeks intake, I'd go for it now. If you didn't change glow plugs, I'd do this now.

I agree with papaindigo regarding rockers and arp studs. Chances are your rockers are good. Don't look for play in them, the new ones have a bit of roller play too, it's normal. If you have a lot, that's an issue. Or wear and tear on the lifter and roller. If you don't change them, make sure you put them back as they were, don't mix them in between. If you store them, store them in oil so they retain the lubrication inside. You may use some thin wire with a big label so you can identify them. Put the rockers in the oil with label outside oil. Same with the injector tips, store them with nozzles inside diesel, so they don't dry out, after you obviously cleaned them. You can clean them with a soft toothbrush on the tip, without too much pressure on the brush, and then wipe them with a lint free rag. They have some very tiny holes that you don't want to cover with dirt, or insert dirt through.

I think you should plan a week of jeepless time, to be conservative, you may need some extra parts, break some (like the plastic return 4 way adapter) and it's not worth rushing things. Maybe take some vacation time? Or send your wife to see her relatives while you have peace and quiet time working, without fighting for the one vehicle left. It took me easy over 30 hours, if I remember correctly, being first time and doing things easy, and I only did rockers, no turbo, no arp studs, no other things. That factored in fabbing the 4 way plastic connector from 2 3 way brass connectors.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 9:40 am

thermorex wrote:

I'd wait till you have the turbo, as there is way more space with the valve cover removed to replace the turbo and will make the whole experience better. I'd check the turbo play first, you may not even need to bother replacing it. I'm close to 140k on mine and the play is almost like the new Garrett I have as spare. So obviously I didn't change it. May be a good idea to change the ckp sensor while you work. Also the cam sensor, so you have the peace of mind you won't need to later. Especially do the ckp if you replace the turbo, you'll have more space.

Injector removal is easy, provided you soak them in pb blaster when they are mounted in the engine. Once they start moving and look they get out, air pressure the pb blaster. You'll probably do an oil change anyways 100 miles after that, to clean any possible contamination from your work.

Timing pins are required in my opinion. Cam holder not so much but it may help having one. You can make yourself a cam holder "v" tool, like the
one vw has or the one used in beesvillebeefarm, or just buy one new from idparts.com.

If you don't have weeks intake, I'd go for it now. If you didn't change glow plugs, I'd do this now.

I agree with papaindigo regarding rockers and arp studs. Chances are your rockers are good. Don't look for play in them, the new ones have a bit of roller play too, it's normal. If you have a lot, that's an issue. Or wear and tear on the lifter and roller. If you don't change them, make sure you put them back as they were, don't mix them in between. If you store them, store them in oil so they retain the lubrication inside. You may use some thin wire with a big label so you can identify them. Put the rockers in the oil with label outside oil. Same with the injector tips, store them with nozzles inside diesel, so they don't dry out, after you obviously cleaned them. You can clean them with a soft toothbrush on the tip, without too much pressure on the brush, and then wipe them with a lint free rag. They have some very tiny holes that you don't want to cover with dirt, or insert dirt through.

I think you should plan a week of jeepless time, to be conservative, you may need some extra parts, break some (like the plastic return 4 way adapter) and it's not worth rushing things. Maybe take some vacation time? Or send your wife to see her relatives while you have peace and quiet time working, without fighting for the one vehicle left. It took me easy over 30 hours, if I remember correctly, being first time and doing things easy, and I only did rockers, no turbo, no arp studs, no other things. That factored in fabbing the 4 way plastic connector from 2 3 way brass connectors.

I appreciate the help and advice!

The turbo swap is not a maintenance thing. I plan on either upgrading to dieselguys billet wheeled, ceramic ball bearing stock replacement turbo or, if that doesnt make it to production, I'll go with a 2060 or 2260vklr factory ball bearing vnt.

Either way, the plan is more boost and more power which is why I wanted to do the arp studs and clean the manifold. I plan on doing my own tuning for the new turbo to add boost and fuel.

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thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 10:19 am

mass-hole wrote:

thermorex wrote:

I'd wait till you have the turbo, as there is way more space with the valve cover removed to replace the turbo and will make the whole experience better. I'd check the turbo play first, you may not even need to bother replacing it. I'm close to 140k on mine and the play is almost like the new Garrett I have as spare. So obviously I didn't change it. May be a good idea to change the ckp sensor while you work. Also the cam sensor, so you have the peace of mind you won't need to later. Especially do the ckp if you replace the turbo, you'll have more space.

Injector removal is easy, provided you soak them in pb blaster when they are mounted in the engine. Once they start moving and look they get out, air pressure the pb blaster. You'll probably do an oil change anyways 100 miles after that, to clean any possible contamination from your work.

Timing pins are required in my opinion. Cam holder not so much but it may help having one. You can make yourself a cam holder "v" tool, like the
one vw has or the one used in beesvillebeefarm, or just buy one new from idparts.com.

If you don't have weeks intake, I'd go for it now. If you didn't change glow plugs, I'd do this now.

I agree with papaindigo regarding rockers and arp studs. Chances are your rockers are good. Don't look for play in them, the new ones have a bit of roller play too, it's normal. If you have a lot, that's an issue. Or wear and tear on the lifter and roller. If you don't change them, make sure you put them back as they were, don't mix them in between. If you store them, store them in oil so they retain the lubrication inside. You may use some thin wire with a big label so you can identify them. Put the rockers in the oil with label outside oil. Same with the injector tips, store them with nozzles inside diesel, so they don't dry out, after you obviously cleaned them. You can clean them with a soft toothbrush on the tip, without too much pressure on the brush, and then wipe them with a lint free rag. They have some very tiny holes that you don't want to cover with dirt, or insert dirt through.

I think you should plan a week of jeepless time, to be conservative, you may need some extra parts, break some (like the plastic return 4 way adapter) and it's not worth rushing things. Maybe take some vacation time? Or send your wife to see her relatives while you have peace and quiet time working, without fighting for the one vehicle left. It took me easy over 30 hours, if I remember correctly, being first time and doing things easy, and I only did rockers, no turbo, no arp studs, no other things. That factored in fabbing the 4 way plastic connector from 2 3 way brass connectors.

I appreciate the help and advice!

The turbo swap is not a maintenance thing. I plan on either upgrading to dieselguys billet wheeled, ceramic ball bearing stock replacement turbo or, if that doesnt make it to production, I'll go with a 2060 or 2260vklr factory ball bearing vnt.

Either way, the plan is more boost and more power which is why I wanted to do the arp studs and clean the manifold. I plan on doing my own tuning for the new turbo to add boost and fuel.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Then it's even easier to decide regarding turbo. I'd still advise to still do turbo with valve cover removed. You may also want to relocate the power steering bottle and vacuum canister for more space around the turbo. You could remove completely the coolant expansion bottle, if you're ok to loose that coolant. You don't strike me being on a strict budget, plus with timing belt and water pump you'll loose lots of coolant so maybe flush the whole thing also. Consider Jeff's hds, especially with a higher boost and higher engine temperatures. It is well worth the investment for you, in my opinion. And also replace ckp and keep old one as spare After turbo replacement you can focus back on valve cover stuff and timing belt/water pump.

Never mind hds thermostat, just saw you signature, on Tapatalk it's not shown...

Good luck!

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 1:15 pm

If that old turbo is solid, I might want to buy or trade for it in the future, as I just used up my spare.

Doing some work and need to know a few things.

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