UPDATE 05' CRD 188k Bosch 7V Plugs, REPLACED W/ PICS

Silverbullet · **Posted:** Mon Nov 09, 2015 4:03 pm

Had a rough start this morning with the Jeep. ~30f deg, Burbs of Chicago.

While I have done lots of work on my CRD I recently had the AC system replaced by a shop. They advised me of the code for a glow plug not working. I pulled the glow plug from behind the alternator. It had anti-sieze applied to threads but clearly read Bosch 7V. This means ceramic correct? Is it best to replace all plug with new 7v Etecnos? What have you guys done?

Thanks!

Ben
2005 Silver CRD Limited, Weeks Stage 1

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Nov 09, 2015 4:06 pm

Just push on the tips a bit with gloves on, if it's ceramic it will probably snap. The metal ones are pretty obvious. Part number on them?

Most of us fear them like the plague, they can destroy the engine. 5 or 7v metal are safe, but won't start as well :furious:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Nov 09, 2015 4:09 pm

I'd rather buy a used small generator ($700) to run the block heater with than to chance the ceramics.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Mon Nov 09, 2015 4:22 pm

If you've got a code for a bad one, the tips will break in a short time. Get em out now. At 188k, you got your monies worth out of them.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Nov 09, 2015 4:39 pm

Google "kj crd ceramic glow plugs" for images of ceramic vs. metal glow plug tips. The ceramics are black and the metal ones are rather obviously metal. The anti-seize strongly suggest someone did something with the glow plugs as anti-seize was not AFAIK applied at the factory.

Hard start at about 30-32F may or may not be glow plugs. Could easily be a bit of air in the fuel. Bleed fuel head per Sir Sams NOOB guide and see if that helps.

If your glow plugs are ceramic and one has failed I'd replace ASAP. Choices are a) OEM metal 5v which also requires a new controller and a ca $100 flash of the ECU or b) 7v metal from idparts that just drop in. Neither are quite as good at really cold starts as ceramics so ideally plug block heater in on timer set for 1-2 hrs before start if temps are going down into low 20s or below.

Winter diesel fuel conditioner is a good thing too.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Nov 09, 2015 5:25 pm

And try your hardest to ever so gently remove them if they are ceramic. They like to break on the way out. Don't let the tip touch the sides, if at all possible, which is really tough :2cents:

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:12 pm

I am getting a code for my number 2 plug so this is on my list. I believe I am still on the 7V system, is it worth going to 5V?

Also can the 7V Etechno work on 5V?

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:28 pm

Like anything electrical, 7V works on 7V, 5V works on 5V.

I haven't had any issue with the Etecno glow plugs in Nashville, Cincinnati, Cleveland, or Toledo during the winter months.

They are the ONLY viable flash-less option. It will take you some time, but if you've ever wrenched before you can do this job in a few hours in the driveway.

The 5V option requires a flash to your ECM, which most typically means a dealership, or several of the tunes (Including [My Recommendation] a Green Diesel Engineering Tune), or some others here on the forums have some less pricey options if you are savvy.

Now you know your options. Any time you can, you absolutely should be using your block heater.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:57 pm

Anyone still running the ceramic plugs is risking their engine. I have seen and worked on the results, and it is not pretty. Like $8000 of not pretty.

Those plugs need to come out and then be smashed outside of the car, so that you *know* that they cannot ever be used again. The Etecno 7V are a drop-in replacement, and are suitable for most environments. If your weather rhymes with "Alaska" or "Edmonton, Alberta".... Then you should be investing in a REALLY long extension cord to keep the block heater plugged in pretty much any time the engine is off and white crap is on the ground.

A tiny generator from Home Depot is cheaper than replacing the engine. The block heater is your friend, certainly. It is only a 400 watt heater, so you don't need a lot of juice to feed it. Use a timer if you know when you plan (roughly) to need the Jeep, and start the timer about 2 hours earlier.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Nov 09, 2015 10:17 pm

Hexus wrote:

Like anything electrical, 7V works on 7V, 5V works on 5V.

I haven't had any issue with the Etecno glow plugs in Nashville, Cincinnati, Cleveland, or Toledo during the winter months.

They are the ONLY viable flash-less option. It will take you some time, but if you've ever wrenched before you can do this job in a few hours in the driveway.

The 5V option requires a flash to your ECM, which most typically means a dealership, or several of the tunes (Including [My Recommendation] a Green Diesel Engineering Tune), or some others here on the forums have some less pricey options if you are savvy.

Now you know your options. Any time you can, you absolutely should be using your block heater.

The reason i asked about the etecno running on 5V is because I thought I recalled a thread around here somewhere where someone was saying they could but would just run cooler than intended.

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

ID Parts sells a steel 5 volt glow plug.

http://www.idparts.com/glow-plug-5v-ste ... -2858.html

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:32 am

That is the Bosch 5v plug that is meant to replace any that fail in a CRD that has already had the 5v flash either from a dealer or the sources mentioned above.

It is not optimal, I would prefer the 7v setups.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:37 am

geordi wrote:

That is the Bosch 5v plug that is meant to replace any that fail in a CRD that has already had the 5v flash either from a dealer or the sources mentioned above.

It is not optimal, I would prefer the 7v setups.

You think the 7v's will start a little colder? I get to about 15F with my 5v's. But the 5v's last longer right?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:46 am

I don't know whether the 5 or 7 volt metal will last longer, that wasn't the goal of their creation in the first place. Protecting the engine with a full metal jacket around the plug was the goal.

Both the 5v and 7v plugs are full metal jacket around a ceramic core. If (when) the ceramic fails and the plug burns out, the metal keeps everything from having anywhere to go.

I haven't heard of any significant failures of the plugs, but you could send a message to Corey at IDparts and see how many have come back dead. I'd bet it is a very small number.

As for cold weather performance.... I don't know any specifics on that either. But I hadn't ever had any starting problems with my CRD and the metal plugs, even when it was in the zeros or teens and the engine was VERY cold-soaked and not plugged in at all. This was in Virginia in the winter of 2009-2010.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:59 am

hmm, thanks Geordi, that has me thinking back to HG thickness randomness I've measured :dizzy:

If I only had time to test all of these factors...

Silverbullet · **Posted:** Tue Nov 10, 2015 10:14 am

Thanks for all the comments. I left the jeep plugged in over night and it started this morning perfectly! Wife left happy and warm

I WAS going to pull the 7V Bosch plugs and take pics with part number and such. it was a light gray and dark black color. Seemed NOT steel..... I am going to assume its ceramic. I have a bad one anyways so may as well replace these bad boys....?

I never touched the sides and was very carful putting back in (The one behind the alternator bracket is easy to see and get.

I think this weekend I will tackle WEEKS Stage 2 and replace with Etechno. I am trying to contact the last owner to see what he did.... Am I wasting time?

Devilmonkey · **Joined:** Sat Nov 29, 2014 2:23 pm **Posts:** 19

ohhh wow ... i got 180k on mine and never thought twice about it.
maybe i should get them out before the snow comes

what is the fault code that you are getting?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Nov 10, 2015 10:54 am

Do yourself a favor and install the Weeks Elbow stage one... The stage 2 kit is just a plug for the other side of the motor, all the fighting is on the driver's side and the elbow replaces all that crap so you don't need to fight with it to get it back into position.

Silverbullet · **Posted:** Tue Nov 10, 2015 11:06 am

geordi wrote:

Do yourself a favor and install the Weeks Elbow stage one... The stage 2 kit is just a plug for the other side of the motor, all the fighting is on the driver's side and the elbow replaces all that crap so you don't need to fight with it to get it back into position.

I have already installed STAGE 1, There is a small metal tube running right under the glow plugs, I think Stage 1 removes this and a ton of other parts....? I could be wrong. They seem hard to reach in general :-(

mass-hole · **Posted:** Tue Nov 10, 2015 11:51 am

Silverbullet wrote:

geordi wrote:

Do yourself a favor and install the Weeks Elbow stage one... The stage 2 kit is just a plug for the other side of the motor, all the fighting is on the driver's side and the elbow replaces all that crap so you don't need to fight with it to get it back into position.

I have already installed STAGE 1, There is a small metal tube running right under the glow plugs, I think Stage 1 removes this and a ton of other parts....? I could be wrong. They seem hard to reach in general :-(

It does replace the metal coolant line that runs over the top of the engine and down the drivers side to the EGR cooler which is probably what you are looking at. If you do put the stage 2 on there, I suggest you take the EGR cooler off the EGR valve before trying to slide it out, it makes it way easier and its only 4 bolts to disassemble.

UPDATE 05' CRD 188k Bosch 7V Plugs, REPLACED W/ PICS

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