My stats are similar to yours.
At 160k miles when I pulled my head my rockers were still in good shape.
I replaced them anyway because I had already bought them.

I think ARP studs are good insurance for future longevity. Especially if you want to pump up the boost.
Ultimately it's your call.
If you decide to pull the intake for studs you can inspect the rockers and decide from there.
IDparts ships quickly.

My jeep had 170,000 miles when a lifter broke holding a intake valve partially open, I had noticed for weeks that the motor sounded a little different. Upon dissasembly it had to broke lifters and two bad rockers. My jeep is rust free and in overall great condition so after crawling through the forums I decided not to chance anything and ordered the rocker-lifter-camshaft assembly, all new valves, and the typical timing belt items. With the machine shop work it was about two grand. At least now I can count on another 100,000 trouble free miles. As a bonus it picked up about 3 mpg, I didn't go with the arp studs as the jeep never tows anything and the wife has been known to be passed by mopeds!

Anytime I take the valve cover off I go ahead and take my pins out. It makes reinstalling the valve cover assembly a lot easier because the cams won't want to push any valves down. Once back on you can take the cam gear bolts and rotate each cam until you can get the pins in. With the cam gears off you'll see the indents. Exhaust will be at 3 and intake will be at 9


If any of that made any sense. Lol

so you said you not taking cylinder head off for inspection , new updated rockers from ID parts are imported from POLAND (i like them) good so far , i would check them valves or get them replaced with fresh set , i don't know if the new ones are from VM POLAND , or from ITALY , because my machine shop just cleaned everything and change valve guide seals only , this was done back 2 years ago , i wish i replaced them valves , though

I am not planning on taking the head off, just removing the manifold/valve cover and doing studs and rockers.
I have the TB fully removed and pulled the WP so I guess i am going to do the rockers and studs next. The TB actually looked pretty good as did the water pump.

I was planning on doing what you are doing sometime in the near future (studs & rockers), but I would like to make an informed decision on whether or not to pull the head and replace all the exhaust valves at the same time. I certainly wish we had the results of the metallurgy tests that geordi has been trying to provide for us so we all could make the very best possible decision on replacing valves or not! Right now, replacing valves is based on conjecture rather than knowledge due to the fact that a few members have had a valve break; reason at this point is totally unknown unfortunately.

If I were going into the top end of this engine today, I would probably err on the side of safety since we are uncertain about the root cause of the valve failures that we are aware of, and there may be more that we do not even know about. It may be in the end a case of the lesser of costs when you factor in having to possibly purchase a head, a piston, a piston liner, etc...not even factoring in all the labor that's involved in all the catastrophic possibilities of a valve breaking... Cheap insurance???

Decisions, Decisions!!!

My rockers felt just like the new ones . . . . . no slop and rolled great.

ok , thats good , but did you try separating them from hydraulic lifters ? check if your lifter piston is stuck in upward position , their is a reason why VM upgraded them , their engineers must know something that is maybe holding the valves too tight , and they won't tell us anyway , it makes it more fun for us LOL