Getting to know my '05 CRD

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

My Cherokee has now become my daily driver (no going back now)
I'm starting to get all the little quirks, squeaks, bumps and gremlins sorted out, but having never owned one before, I don't know what is normal.
I would really appreciate some suggestions from you guys that have owned them for years, as I plan to keep this one for a while.
I have 200,000 Km on the car.

Blower fan only runs on full - Ordered resistor.

Glow plug codes - Ordered BOSCH glow plugs

Overheating on big hills, in crazy hot weather - Ordered a Hayden 2905 Viscous clutch. Where is the needle supposed to sit? mine usually sits dead in the middle.

When I start the engine, it starts very quickly, but there is a rattle or more of a clunking noise which goes away the second the engine starts, it also makes the sound when the engine is shut off. any ideas where to start? visual inspection of motor mounts look ok.

While the engine is running I get some intermittent vibrations that sound somewhat like a bonnet rattling, but its not. usually only in drive with my foot on the brake stopped (increased engine load) any ideas?

Does your front diff get hot under normal driving conditions? in 2wd? how hot? My last car had free wheeling hubs so it would stay stone cold.

I have a P0610 Code, after I jumpstarted the thing while camping.. oops. is there difference in how the gearbox/engine will behave? or can I just get this removed by getting a GDE custom eco tune?

I get a very slight, but constant whine from the back of the car when holding a constant speed, very slight and can only hear with the windows up on a quiet road. Normal?

Sometimes the engine runs a tiny bit rough.. only sometimes and at idle or just sitting there and rev the engine to around 1100rpm and drop it again. I noticed a slight weep, from injector 3's rail. its not enough to drip. will tighten it, is this likely to be the cause? or should I go for a in tank pump?

I also get a few clunks from the front suspension, all the bushings seem to be ok, but I might just take it to a suspension shop and have them diagnose it.

All in all, I'm really starting to like this car, but I don't know if I can trust it yet. I get good economy, around 7.8L on the Highway and average around 13L around town.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2017 6:10 pm

Some inexpensive checks to prevent some very expensive problems:

Check the rear CV joint on the front prop shaft (driveline) The boots very commonly wear out and the joint begins making all sorts of weird noises.

If you have to pull the prop shaft (or even if you don't, it's easier to do with the shaft out) Disconnect your battery ground and pull your starter. from there you can rotate the engine and inspect the torque converter bolts. There have been a few who missed the start-up shut-down metallic sounds when this happened to them, until the bolts came completely out. If you find any loose, throw them away and get new ones. Install them to torque and use thread locking compound.

If any are completely gone, ... they are not really gone, they are in the lower bell-housing waiting to do major damage. They need to be retrieved. By magnets, or some other means, but do not leave them there.

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

Thanks, good info on the torque converter bolts. I just did a search and found a bit of info.

I'm guessing its going to be a real PITA to get the starter out and inspect bolts. My torque converter was apparently replaced in 2015, as a part of a recall? I'll check anyway. may need to pick up a smaller torque wrench.

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Have you deleted EGR yet?

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

weeks101 wrote:

Have you deleted EGR yet?

No, not yet.

If I unplug my MAF, will that delete it? or is it more reliable to block it off completely with a plate?

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:59 pm

Better still, take it off completely. Replace it with https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/egr-delete-jeep-liberty-crd/ unless you absolutely need it for some inspection.

When I got mine, I went with basic black on everything, and with the new battery box, https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/battery-tray-for-jeep-liberty-2-8l-crd/ and basic black hoses, I haven't met an inspector that would be able to spot that it isn't stock, even from underneath with a mirror like they do in CA. It all just kinda disappears in the shadows.

JasonKJ · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 11:38 pm **Posts:** 41

GordnadoCRD wrote:

Better still, take it off completely. Replace it with https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/egr-delete-jeep-liberty-crd/ unless you absolutely need it for some inspection.

Fantastic. I've read all over the place "weeks kit" and "elbow delete" and not entirely sure what it consisted of. I'll be ordering this and do it at the same time as my glow plugs. Hopefully shipping to Australia is not too bad.

Cheers

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Shipping to Australia is no problem!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Feb 16, 2017 2:24 am

JasonKJ wrote:

If I unplug my MAF, will that delete it? or is it more reliable to block it off completely with a plate?

Nothing other than a Weeks elbow (Sasquatch) kit or an EGR block off plate will completely 100% guarantee no soot going into the intake. :roll:

EGR valves can leak by, so unplugging the MAF or a PCM (powertrain control module) tune by itself cannot prevent leakby....

Weeks kit:> https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... berty-crd/

EGR Block off plate dimensions and installation instructions:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576&hilit

Getting to know my '05 CRD

Who is online