Need Help with My Coolant issues!! 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

Ok so Here is my first post and at a complete loss as to what to do. Had a Thermostat that we figured was bad. Temps would only go to 1/4 on the gauge. So we did a complete drain of the system of coolant. Pulled the thermostat. Put in new stat and gasket. Filled up with ELC coolant. Had some air in the system and bleed it. Everything was fine for a few days then all on the sudden we started getting "puking" from the degas bottle on the right side would fill. left side would be VERY low, maybe an inch at the bottom and would trip the low coolant light. We would open the degas bottle cap and the fluid would bubble and then fill the right side back up to were it was at the cold fill line. This had gone on for days. Would get a LOT of over flow on the ground and take the cap off and fill the side again to cold fill in the morning. So 4 days ago took car to the shop. did pressure test on it said everything looked good no clue what the issue was. So I decided to take off the degas bottle clean it real qood and examine it. Put all back together new cap. Was perfectly fine for 2 days. Levels were good. Right side of bottle nothing in it and thought maybe we had fixed it. Well yesterday started all back up again with low coolant and some puking. This all started after replacing the thermostat. Any ideas what the hell is going on? I have ready everything from head gaskets to temp sensors. This was not an issue before the stat. Could a bad Thermostat do this? I have a replacement that will be here tomorrow if this may make a difference? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also as a side note, when we put in the new thermostat the engine temps were now normal not low and had VERY good heat in the cab.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:43 pm

What is ELC coolant and who makes it?

HOAT is the recommended coolant type. Zerex G-05 in the gold bottle.

Mixing incompatible coolant types can clog the radiator.

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

ELC we used was Rotella ELC (Extended Life Coolant) It is the red color coolant. I have read on here that many have used it. Seems like when most of the issues happen is when driving it about 70mph. Is it possible that getting that warm and running that a head gasket is leaking? Also read that doing ARP studs one at a time may work for just a leaky gasket? I am new to this sorry.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:59 pm

I dont know enough about the rotella coolant to be sure if its compatible with HOAT.
If you drained and flushed all the old coolant out then you might be ok.

You might need a new radiator cap. Try that first.

If you still have the problem after replacing the cap, try this:
1. Pressure test the cooling system to 16psi
2. Let it sit at that pressure for at least 30 min
3. Remove all 4 glow plugs, unplug all 4 injectors, and crank the engine
4. If water shoots out the glow plug holes you have a blown head gasket or a cracked head

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

Ok Sounds Great I will Try all that. We did just replace the Cap and did a pressure test on it this week. May be checking for a head gasket I guess. Could a Oil Cooler cause any of this? This is a buddies Car, I have a 6.0 Ford Diesel and All to familiar with oil cooled issues...

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 9:10 pm

I think you didn't remove all the air in the head after the thermostat install.

the air is not removed via the plastic twist cap located on the passenger side of the radiator, the air is trapped in the head and not in the radiator..... removing the upper heater hose for a little bit releases the air.

Temporarily detach one of the heater hoses near the front of the engine and run the engine for a bit allowing the air to be pushed out of the heater core and the head. Properly reattach the heater hose and add more coolant.

Make sure you are using the HOAT type coolant and that you didn't mix two different types of coolant.

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

Yes having air trapped is very possible. I am gonna do a coolant flush tomorrow to go back to the recommended coolant vs the ELC I am using. Would this flush the air out or still follow the mentioned steps after flush?

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

Which hose would be good to unhook? Sorry I am trying to follow the process to remove the air. That very well could be it

rankom · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 9:48 pm

in my case , i had cylinder head off just to see if any damage to piston from small pice of broken GP , lucky no damage so it was put back together and new T stat VW recommended TDI coolant G13 , no bleeding air and no problem since 2013 so yes this summer i will go with mopar coolant and see if it does need air purge ? maybe VW coolant does not LOL

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

Ya I am not sure how to bleed the air out of the head. I was pretty sure I bleed the air with the valve on the radiator and so forth but not sure how to really do this. Seems that it only has the issue when getting on the highway. So maybe the coolant getting circulated so quickly with the air in the head over pressurizes?

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 10:24 pm

It's the upper most hose.

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

So take the upper hose off run it for a bit with the hose off till fluid comes out?

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 10:29 pm

Use a coolant flush "T" at the upper most heater hose. Remove the cap on the "T" and run the engine until coolant comes out, then close it and fill.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 10:33 pm

Sorry....your head gasket is bad. Too many others have had the same symptoms, including myself.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

So install on of these? Isnt there a branch on top for the heater core? Sorry car is not here to look at for the moment. Any place to get these?

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=56486&hilit=citric

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

WolverineFW wrote:

Sorry....your head gasket is bad. Too many others have had the same symptoms, including myself.

So bad head gasket with No smoke or any other issues until after installing a Thermostat?

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

Also as a Side note prior to any of the thermostat install it was not having any of these issues. But this engine does have a LARGE amount of blow by. Since the thermostat was replace as the other was stuck open would the added pressure in the system now make the head gasket issue appear more now? Sorry lots to figure out here.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Feb 24, 2017 3:20 am

Jcnavyd wrote:

Also as a Side note prior to any of the thermostat install it was not having any of these issues. But this engine does have a LARGE amount of blow by. Since the thermostat was replace as the other was stuck open would the added pressure in the system now make the head gasket issue appear more now? Sorry lots to figure out here.

I experienced the same issues you're experiencing and wondered the same thing..... I never could determine if it was anything to do with the thermostat replacement or if the issue was pre-existing but it eventually led me to discover that I had a failed Head gasket.

So do your due diligence, make sure your head gasket is not blown. Check that your head is clear of air, check the expansion tank for coolant in the overflow side of the bottle, check for pressure under the cap and if you need more proof that it could be a Head gasket problem then get a combustion gas in coolant detector to confirm that it's a leak. If it is a HG problem, then don't worry, you have help here on how to begin to repair the problem and on making your little diesel the envy of the neighborhood.

You're going to love it.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lisle-Combus ... 3=&veh=sem

Jcnavyd · **Joined:** Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:03 pm **Posts:** 13

Awesome I appreciate the Help. So the "T" goes on which hose? The link to the pic I sent lookes liek it was tied into the hose going into the water pump? Is that right? And FYi have almost a full over flow on the degas bottle. Pop the cap and then the over flow goes down a good pit and the left side fill almost right back to normal levels. So I am not really losing any fluid at all. Just high pressure and filling over flow.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 24, 2017 9:30 am

Jcnavyd wrote:

Awesome I appreciate the Help. So the "T" goes on which hose? The link to the pic I sent lookes liek it was tied into the hose going into the water pump? Is that right? And FYi have almost a full over flow on the degas bottle. Pop the cap and then the over flow goes down a good pit and the left side fill almost right back to normal levels. So I am not really losing any fluid at all. Just high pressure and filling over flow.

There are two heater lines coming from the firewall, passenger side, and run along the side of the valve cover. One of them has a rubber hose that connects to a Y junction. Connect the "T" inline with the other heater line that does not have the Y junction.

Need Help with My Coolant issues!! 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD

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