Control arms, bushings, and ball joints?

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

I'm going to try and replace some of the ball joints when I redo my suspension. I don't want to break the bank and do all of them. What I need to know is are there any ball joints you can replace without the whole control arm? Also which ball joints/ controls arms are most crucial to do first? The previous owner didn't know how to take care of a vehicle and never replaced anything and the ball joints in the front are all bad and i haven't checked the rear ones but I'm sure there bad too.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 4:38 pm

As far as I am aware the only control arms that don't have the ball joint integrated into it are the jba's. The lower ball joints are separate. I replaced mine with the moog brand. And technically there is only one ball joint in the rear. I can't comment on which is more important to do. I did all of the above mentioned at once.

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 5:15 pm

The costs of doing all is not that bad. Get greaseable ball joints, including tierod ends, and you may also want to look at the front bearings, as you'll take stuff out anyways. The rear wishbone is not too expensive either, I got it from Napa last year for 120-ish I think, complete with bushings and ball joint.

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 6:34 pm

fettersp wrote:

I'm going to try and replace some of the ball joints when I redo my suspension. I don't want to break the bank and do all of them. What I need to know is are there any ball joints you can replace without the whole control arm? Also which ball joints/ controls arms are most crucial to do first? The previous owner didn't know how to take care of a vehicle and never replaced anything and the ball joints in the front are all bad and i haven't checked the rear ones but I'm sure there bad too.

OEM lower ball joints are from the 4-cyl gasser KJ
- you will need the K3199 MOOG replacements for the V6 KJ
- same fit, same alignment, much heavier duty to carry the increased weight of the 2.8L turboDiesel
- if you're planning a lift, opt for the 'Al's lifted uppers' or similar: you get new upper ball joints and bushings in tubular arms with offset allowing precise alignment for the proposed lift
- plus, the brite red tubes set you up for much-envied seldom-achieved bragging rights, eh..............

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 8:07 pm

gmctd wrote:

fettersp wrote:

I'm going to try and replace some of the ball joints when I redo my suspension. I don't want to break the bank and do all of them. What I need to know is are there any ball joints you can replace without the whole control arm? Also which ball joints/ controls arms are most crucial to do first? The previous owner didn't know how to take care of a vehicle and never replaced anything and the ball joints in the front are all bad and i haven't checked the rear ones but I'm sure there bad too.

OEM lower ball joints are from the 4-cyl gasser KJ
- you will need the K3199 MOOG replacements for the V6 KJ
- same fit, same alignment, much heavier duty to carry the increased weight of the 2.8L turboDiesel
- if you're planning a lift, opt for the 'Al's lifted uppers' or similar: you get new upper ball joints and bushings in tubular arms with offset allowing precise alignment for the proposed lift
- plus, the brite red tubes set you up for much-envied seldom-achieved bragging rights, eh..............

Every single KJ uses the same exact LBJ's,from 2.4 gassers to 2.8 CRD's.Funny thing is the manufacturer part # for the OEM LBJ's(made by MOOG per Chrysler specs) is K3199 also.

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 8:18 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

gmctd wrote:

fettersp wrote:

I'm going to try and replace some of the ball joints when I redo my suspension. I don't want to break the bank and do all of them. What I need to know is are there any ball joints you can replace without the whole control arm? Also which ball joints/ controls arms are most crucial to do first? The previous owner didn't know how to take care of a vehicle and never replaced anything and the ball joints in the front are all bad and i haven't checked the rear ones but I'm sure there bad too.

OEM lower ball joints are from the 4-cyl gasser KJ
- you will need the K3199 MOOG replacements for the V6 KJ
- same fit, same alignment, much heavier duty to carry the increased weight of the 2.8L turboDiesel
- if you're planning a lift, opt for the 'Al's lifted uppers' or similar: you get new upper ball joints and bushings in tubular arms with offset allowing precise alignment for the proposed lift
- plus, the brite red tubes set you up for much-envied seldom-achieved bragging rights, eh..............

Every single KJ uses the same exact LBJ's,from 2.4 gassers to 2.8 CRD's.Funny thing is the manufacturer part # for the OEM LBJ's(made by MOOG per Chrysler specs) is K3199 also.

Precisely my point on the 4-cyls, gasser\CRD - DCJ must have changed to the K3199's sometime after the production runs for, at least, the '05 CRD's - the oem's I removed were way smaller than the K3199 replacements - even my non-mechanically orientated son #2 could see the difference

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 9:03 pm

gmctd wrote:

Precisely my point on the 4-cyls, gasser\CRD - DCJ must have changed to the K3199's sometime after the production runs for, at least, the '05 CRD's - the oem's I removed were way smaller than the K3199 replacements - even my non-mechanically orientated son #2 could see the difference

There are 2 versions of the K3199 LBJ,the "Problem Solver" version(greaseable) and the OEM version.Same part # different ball joint.

JeepMorrison · **Joined:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:34 am **Posts:** 1236

tjkj2002 wrote:

There are 2 versions of the K3199 LBJ,the "Problem Solver" version(greaseable) and the OEM version.Same part # different ball joint.

And that is why i use the K80767, greasable every time. No guessing, no return trips.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 11:16 pm

4x4kayak2112 wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

There are 2 versions of the K3199 LBJ,the "Problem Solver" version(greaseable) and the OEM version.Same part # different ball joint.

And that is why i use the K80767, greasable every time. No guessing, no return trips.

That is the K3199 that they put a new part# since it did confuse many.

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

So the ball joints on the lower control arms can be replaced and are not integrated in the control arm?

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Fri Jan 09, 2015 12:19 pm

Yes. Lowers, you can replace just ball joint. Uppers, you need a new assembly or upgrade to JBA's with replaceable BJ's.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 09, 2015 12:59 pm

I highly suggest spending the money for the jba uppers. I opted for the stock integrated ones and I plan on keeping my crd a long time. I could of saved money in the long run and the piece of mind if I ever do decide to lift

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sun Jan 11, 2015 7:45 pm

Is there a thread here or anywhere else with detailed instructions on changing the UCA's? Upper Control Arms?

I found nothing with Google search or searching here

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 11, 2015 10:54 pm

jrsavoie wrote:

Is there a thread here or anywhere else with detailed instructions on changing the UCA's? Upper Control Arms?

I found nothing with Google search or searching here

Pretty straight forward,takes like 15mins per side if you have the correct tools(long extension and 18mm swivel socket,the good ones not the cheap u-jointed ones).

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Jan 12, 2015 11:08 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

jrsavoie wrote:

Is there a thread here or anywhere else with detailed instructions on changing the UCA's? Upper Control Arms?

I found nothing with Google search or searching here

Pretty straight forward,takes like 15mins per side if you have the correct tools(long extension and 18mm swivel socket,the good ones not the cheap u-jointed ones).

May take a bit more for the Crd, I was bitching every minute due to the amount of parts I had to remove to have access to Uca bolts... Had to work from under the jeep for rear bolts and from the top for front, plus some brake likes are in the way, if I remember correctly. Not hard by any means but annoying for me at least.

What worked best for me was flex box ratchet with a long handle.

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

If you are currently stock height but looking to lift at some point in the near future, would it make sense to get the extended A arms or should you stick with stock length?

rob40wilson03 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:43 pm **Posts:** 51

Reviving this thread! Looking for some advice.

My ball joints need replacing, and so do the bushings on both upper and lower control arms. I'm at 136k miles. So looking at parts available, I think I'm going to order the Mevotech upper control arms (includes grease-able ball joint), the OEM lower control arms, and another pair of Mevotech ball joints (for the lower control arms). Looking at getting all of these from IDParts.com

Does this sound smart/reasonable to you guys?

Anything else I need or should think about doing while I've got stuff pulled apart? I don't have any reason to suspect the struts/shocks other than the fact that they've got 136,000 miles on them...

Thanks!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 14, 2018 8:26 am

rob40wilson03 wrote:

Reviving this thread! Looking for some advice.

My ball joints need replacing, and so do the bushings on both upper and lower control arms. I'm at 136k miles. So looking at parts available, I think I'm going to order the Mevotech upper control arms (includes grease-able ball joint), the OEM lower control arms, and another pair of Mevotech ball joints (for the lower control arms). Looking at getting all of these from IDParts.com

Does this sound smart/reasonable to you guys?

Anything else I need or should think about doing while I've got stuff pulled apart? I don't have any reason to suspect the struts/shocks other than the fact that they've got 136,000 miles on them...

Thanks!

I tried the mevotech upper arms.
First, you will want to put a 90 deg grease fitting on there so you can actually grease them once they are installed.
And if you have any kind of suspension lift, dont expect them to last very long.
Six months after installing my lift kit I noticed looseness in the upper ball joints. Switched to JBA upper arms because they are the absolute best.
If you dont want to use JBA go with Moog.

For the lower ball joints go with the Moog HD greasable ones.

rob40wilson03 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:43 pm **Posts:** 51

flash7210 wrote:

rob40wilson03 wrote:

Reviving this thread! Looking for some advice.

My ball joints need replacing, and so do the bushings on both upper and lower control arms. I'm at 136k miles. So looking at parts available, I think I'm going to order the Mevotech upper control arms (includes grease-able ball joint), the OEM lower control arms, and another pair of Mevotech ball joints (for the lower control arms). Looking at getting all of these from IDParts.com

Does this sound smart/reasonable to you guys?

Anything else I need or should think about doing while I've got stuff pulled apart? I don't have any reason to suspect the struts/shocks other than the fact that they've got 136,000 miles on them...

Thanks!

I tried the mevotech upper arms.
First, you will want to put a 90 deg grease fitting on there so you can actually grease them once they are installed.
And if you have any kind of suspension lift, dont expect them to last very long.
Six months after installing my lift kit I noticed looseness in the upper ball joints. Switched to JBA upper arms because they are the absolute best.
If you dont want to use JBA go with Moog.

For the lower ball joints go with the Moog HD greasable ones.

Thanks for the heads-up on the Mevotech. I'm not lifted and don't plan to, but I'll go with JBA or Moog because I don't feel like having to do this again anytime soon.

In the interest of saving some money, is it possible to replace just the bushings on the lower control arms instead of replacing the whole thing?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 14, 2018 11:15 am

Quote:

In the interest of saving some money, is it possible to replace just the bushings on the lower control arms instead of replacing the whole thing?

Yes its possible.
But the effort required to do so makes it not worth it.

Are you sure you need new lower control arm bushings?
I've got 220k miles on mine and they are still ok.

Control arms, bushings, and ball joints?

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